Manali to Leh road trip: route, high passes and permits

The Manali to Leh road trip is one of India’s great mountain drives: roughly 428 km of tarmac and gravel that climbs from Himachal Pradesh’s pine forests over five high passes into the cold desert of Ladakh. According to Wikipedia’s summary of the Leh–Manali Highway, the road runs about 428 km and stays open for only around six months a year. It is spectacular, demanding and best treated with respect for the altitude.

The Manali–Leh Highway is a high-altitude road linking Manali in Himachal Pradesh with Leh in Ladakh, crossing passes up to about 5,328 m. It usually opens from late May or June to October, needs 2–3 days of driving with acclimatisation stops, and suits travellers ready for thin air and long fuel gaps.

About the route and quick facts

The Manali–Leh Highway forms part of National Highway 3. According to Wikipedia’s overview, it is about 428 km (266 mi) long and is usually open for roughly six months a year, from the week the snow is cleared until October.

The drive splits into two worlds. The Himachal side is green and steep, following the Chandra and Bhaga rivers past Keylong and Jispa. Beyond Baralacha La the land opens into the high, treeless plateaus of Ladakh, where the horizon is bare rock, scree and enormous sky.

A big change came with the Atal Tunnel. According to Wikipedia, the tunnel became operational in October 2020, bypasses the Rohtang Pass and shortens the Himachal section by roughly 45 km, so many travellers now skip the old Rohtang climb entirely.

Best time and open season

The highway is a summer road. According to Wikipedia, it typically opens once the snow is cleared and stays open until October. Press and BRO updates for 2026 reported that the Border Roads Organisation connected both ends of the highway around mid-May, with tourist traffic building through late May and June.

The Border Roads Organisation clears the passes each spring and closes the road when heavy snow returns, usually in November. Exact dates shift every year with the snowpack, so always check the current BRO or district status before you set out.

The route and key stops

From Manali, the modern route runs through the Atal Tunnel into the Lahaul valley, rejoining the river road near Sissu and Tandi. It then climbs steadily through Keylong and Jispa before the first big pass at Baralacha La.

• Atal Tunnel and Rohtang: most vehicles use the tunnel; the old Rohtang Pass road (about 3,980 m) remains a scenic alternative when open.
• Tandi: the last reliable fuel stop for a very long stretch (see practical tips below).
• Keylong and Jispa: the main Lahaul towns, with hotels, homestays and phone signal; common first-night halts.
• Sarchu: a windswept camp plateau near the Himachal–Ladakh boundary, around 4,200 m; tented stays only.
• Gata Loops: a set of tight hairpin switchbacks climbing toward Nakee La.
• Nakee La and Lachulung La: two high passes in quick succession.
• Pang: a seasonal tented halt in a gorge, one of the highest transit stops.
• Moore Plains (More Plains): a long, flat, high-altitude tableland before the final climb.
• Tanglang La: the highest pass on the route, about 5,328 m.
• Upshi and Karu: the descent to the Indus valley; fuel returns at Karu before the last run into Leh.

The high passes and altitudes on the Manali to Leh road trip

Altitude is the defining feature of this drive. The figures below follow the Leh–Manali Highway article on Wikipedia; other sources list small variations (for example Baralacha La is sometimes quoted near 4,890 m), so treat them as close approximations and note that pass heights are reported differently by different agencies.

Spending only short spells at these heights while driving is safer than sleeping at them. The higher camps, especially Sarchu at around 4,200 m, are where many travellers first feel the altitude.

Suggested 2–3 day itinerary

Two days is possible but hard on the body; three days is kinder and gives you a buffer for weather or roadwork. If you are flying into Leh first and driving out to Manali, reverse the plan and spend two full days acclimatising in Leh before you start.

Day 1 — Manali to Jispa (or Keylong), ~135 km:

• Start early through the Atal Tunnel into Lahaul.
• Top up fuel at Tandi and carry snacks and water.
• Overnight at Jispa or Keylong (roughly 3,200–3,300 m) to sleep low before the high passes.

Day 2 — Jispa to Sarchu, ~90 km (or push to Pang):

• Cross Baralacha La; watch for water crossings early in the season.
• Overnight in tents at Sarchu, or continue to Pang if you feel strong.
• Rest, hydrate and avoid alcohol; this is the hardest night for altitude.

Day 3 — Sarchu to Leh, ~250 km:

• Climb the Gata Loops to Nakee La and Lachulung La, then Pang.
• Cross the Moore Plains and top out at Tanglang La.
• Descend to Upshi and the Indus, refuel at Karu, and reach Leh by evening.

Where to stay along the way

Accommodation is basic and seasonal. Keylong and Jispa have proper hotels, guesthouses and homestays; Sarchu and Pang are tented camps only, set up for the summer and taken down before winter. Book Jispa and Keylong ahead in July and August.

These are planning estimates only and swing with season and demand; reconfirm at the time of booking. At Sarchu, sleeping bags and hot-water bottles matter more than luxury.

Budget breakdown

Costs depend heavily on whether you self-drive, rent a motorcycle, or take a shared taxi. The table gives a rough per-person estimate for a three-day one-way run, assuming two people sharing a vehicle and mid-range stays.

A private taxi from Manali to Leh, or a rented Himalayan-class motorcycle, will add substantially and is booked separately. Treat all these as bands to plan around, not quotes.

Food to try on the way

Roadside dhabas (simple eateries) and Lahauli kitchens keep this drive fed. Expect hot, filling, vegetarian-friendly food rather than variety.

• Dal-chawal (lentils and rice) — the reliable staple at every dhaba.
• Maggi (instant noodles) — the unofficial fuel of Himalayan road trips, served hot everywhere.
• Thukpa (noodle soup) and momos (steamed dumplings) — more common as you near Ladakh.
• Aloo paratha (stuffed flatbread) with curd — a common breakfast at Jispa and Keylong.
• Butter tea and plenty of plain hot water — warming and good for hydration at altitude.

Permits and rules

Good news for the main drive: the Manali–Leh Highway to Leh itself does not require an inner-line permit. Permits become relevant for side trips into Ladakh’s protected border areas such as Nubra, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri.

• Indian citizens: no separate inner-line permit is needed for the protected areas anymore; instead you pay the Ladakh Environment and Development Fee (a green fee plus wildlife fee, and an optional Red Cross contribution) online. According to the official Ladakh permit portal (lahdclehpermit.in), these fees can be paid online and there is a discount when arranged through a registered local agent.
• Foreign nationals: still need a Protected Area Permit for those restricted areas, arranged through a registered travel agent in Leh, and typically must travel in a group. The Leh district administration notes that citizens of certain countries need additional clearances.

Ladakh is a single-use-plastic-sensitive region: carry out your rubbish, avoid plastic bottles where you can, and refill from safe water sources. Drone use in Ladakh is restricted and needs prior permission; do not fly near border areas.

Altitude, AMS and safety

This is the part that turns a good trip bad if ignored. You will sleep above 4,000 m and cross passes above 5,000 m, so acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a real risk, not a formality.

According to CDC high-altitude guidance, AMS can affect travellers going above about 2,500 m, with headache, nausea, fatigue, poor sleep and dizziness. The core advice is gradual ascent — avoid abrupt jumps above 3,000 m and let the body adjust — and acetazolamide (commonly known as Diamox) is described as the medication proven to speed acclimatisation, at doses around 125–250 mg twice daily, started before ascent; discuss it with a doctor first.

• Sleep low when you can: a night at Jispa or Keylong before the high passes helps.
• If flying into Leh, the UT Ladakh administration advises acclimatising for about 48 hours before heading higher.
• Hydrate well, eat light, and avoid alcohol and tobacco on the climb.
• Golden rule: if symptoms get worse, do not go higher — descend. Descent is the definitive treatment.

Carry a basic medical kit and know where help is. Leh’s Sonam Norboo Memorial (SNM) Hospital is the main referral hospital; smaller dispensaries exist along the way but facilities between the passes are minimal. Travellers with heart or lung conditions should seek medical advice before the trip.

Fuel, food and network gaps

Plan this drive around scarcity. The single most important logistics point is fuel. According to travel reports, Tandi (near Keylong, about 110 km from Manali) is the last reliable petrol pump before a long gap, with the next dependable fuel at Karu, roughly 30 km before Leh — a stretch of around 365 km with no assured filling stations. Fill up completely at Tandi and carry spare fuel, especially on a motorcycle. Treat these distances as indicative and reconfirm locally, as new pumps occasionally open.

• Network: mobile signal is patchy to absent between Keylong and Leh; only postpaid connections work in Ladakh, and even those drop out for long stretches. Tell someone your plan before you lose coverage.
• Cash and UPI: carry enough cash. ATMs are essentially limited to Keylong and Leh, and digital payments fail without signal.
• Food and water: dhabas and tented camps at Jispa, Sarchu, Pang and along the way sell meals, but stock is limited; carry snacks, extra water and rehydration salts.
• Vehicle: start with good tyres, brakes and a spare; carry a tow rope and basic tools. Rivers run higher by afternoon, so cross water sections in the morning.

Solo women travellers report the route as broadly manageable in season, when traffic and camps are active; the bigger risks here are altitude and isolation rather than the road being busy. Travelling with at least one other vehicle or a group is sensible given the network gaps.

Nearby places

The highway pairs naturally with other Himalayan journeys, whether you extend from Leh or link it with a Himachal loop.

For the Ladakh end, see our Ladakh travel guide. To plan the Himachal side, our roundup of the top hill stations in Himachal Pradesh helps you build a base, and if you want a second high-altitude drive, compare notes with our Spiti valley road trip guide.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need for the Manali to Leh road trip?

Plan two to three days for the Manali to Leh road trip. Two days is possible for fit, experienced travellers, but three days is safer because it lets you sleep at Jispa or Keylong before the high passes and reduces the risk of acute mountain sickness at Sarchu and beyond.

When does the Manali–Leh Highway open and close?

The Manali–Leh Highway is a summer road, usually open from around late May or June until October, depending on snow clearance by the Border Roads Organisation. It closes when heavy snow returns, typically in November. Dates change every year, so check the current BRO or district road status before you travel.

What is the highest pass on the Manali to Leh route?

Tanglang La is the highest pass on the route, at about 5,328 m (17,480 ft) according to Wikipedia. You also cross Baralacha La, Nakee La and Lachulung La, all above 4,700 m. Rohtang La near Manali is now usually bypassed through the Atal Tunnel.

Do I need a permit for the Manali to Leh drive?

No inner-line permit is needed for the highway to Leh itself. Permits apply to protected areas like Nubra and Pangong: Indian citizens pay the Ladakh Environment and Development Fee online, while foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered Leh travel agent, usually in a group.

How do I avoid altitude sickness on the Manali to Leh road trip?

Ascend gradually, sleep low before the high passes, hydrate well and avoid alcohol. CDC guidance recommends avoiding abrupt ascents above 3,000 m; acetazolamide can help but ask a doctor first. If symptoms worsen, descend immediately. Those with heart or lung conditions should seek medical advice before the trip.

Where is the last petrol pump on the Manali to Leh route?

Tandi, near Keylong and about 110 km from Manali, is the last reliable petrol pump. The next dependable fuel is at Karu, around 30 km before Leh, leaving a gap of roughly 365 km. Fill up fully at Tandi and carry spare fuel, especially on a motorcycle. Confirm locally, as pumps occasionally change.

Last updated and sources

This drive rewards travellers who are patient with altitude and comfortable with long, empty stretches; go in the July-to-September window if you want the most settled conditions. Anyone with health concerns should plan extra acclimatisation days and consult a doctor first.

Last updated: 25 September 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: Wikipedia, Leh–Manali Highway (highway length, pass altitudes, open season, Atal Tunnel); Ladakh permit portal, lahdclehpermit.in (environment and development fee, online payment); Leh district administration (Protected Area Permit for foreigners); CDC high-altitude travel and altitude-illness guidance (AMS onset above ~2,500 m, gradual ascent, acetazolamide); Administration of UT Ladakh advisory (48-hour acclimatisation in Leh); Border Roads Organisation and press updates for the 2026 opening; travel field reports for fuel gaps (Tandi to Karu). Accessed September 2026.

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