Rajmachi Fort guide: twin citadels, treks and caves

Rajmachi Fort, in Pune district, Maharashtra, is a pair of fortified hilltops — Shrivardhan and Manaranjan balekilla (citadel) — rising above the village of Udhewadi in the Sahyadri range (Western Ghats), roughly midway between Lonavala and Karjat. This Shivaji-era stronghold guarded the old Bor Ghat trade route and is now a popular monsoon and night trek near Mumbai and Pune. This guide covers the twin forts, the two trek routes, the Kondane Buddhist caves below, the best season, how to reach, where to stay, budget, permits and safety.

Rajmachi Fort is a twin-citadel hill fort in Maval taluka, Pune district, Maharashtra, in the Sahyadri mountains between Lonavala and Karjat. According to its Wikipedia entry it comprises two fortresses, Shrivardhan and Manaranjan, set around a wide machi (plateau) above Udhewadi village, and is listed as a protected monument.

About Rajmachi Fort

Rajmachi Fort is a twin-citadel hill fort in Maval taluka, Pune district, Maharashtra, set in the Sahyadri (Western Ghats) between the hill town of Lonavala and the Konkan-edge town of Karjat. According to its Wikipedia entry, it is made up of two fortresses — Shrivardhan and Manaranjan — standing around a broad machi (the flat plateau that gives the fort its name), with the small village of Udhewadi on that plateau.

The fort’s value was always its position. It overlooks the Bor Ghat (Borghat), the old pass that carried trade from the Konkan ports up to the Deccan, and several fort-documentation and trekking sources describe Rajmachi as one of the forts built to watch that route. Today it is better known as a trek: an easy, scenic walk from Lonavala or a steeper scramble from the Karjat side, popular across the year but busiest in the monsoon.

Published heights for Rajmachi differ. One fort record (durgbharari.in) gives figures of both about 2,070 feet and roughly 2,700 feet on the same page, and other accounts cite up to about 2,800 feet, so treat the elevation as approximate — somewhere around 820 metres (about 2,700 feet) for the higher Shrivardhan citadel.

The twin forts: Shrivardhan and Manaranjan

Rajmachi is really two forts on one plateau: Shrivardhan balekilla and Manaranjan balekilla, each a self-contained citadel, linked by the open machi where Udhewadi village sits. According to its Wikipedia entry, Udhewadi lies at the southern foot of the Manaranjan balekilla, while Shrivardhan is the higher of the two and the one that commands the widest views.

Shrivardhan is the taller, more prominent citadel, and in the monsoon the Kataldhar waterfall can be seen from it, per fort and trekking accounts. Manaranjan, the second citadel, has gateways and bastions of its own. Between the two stands a Bhairavanath temple, which fort records describe as holding idols of Bhairav and Jogeshwari along with old cannon fragments and stone lamp-towers (deepmala).

Because the two citadels sit apart across the plateau, walking both takes time. Most visitors give themselves a full day on top, or stay overnight at Udhewadi, to climb Shrivardhan for sunrise or sunset and explore Manaranjan and the village temples at a relaxed pace.

A short history of Rajmachi Fort

Rajmachi’s recorded story runs from the Satavahana era to the British, with its best-documented chapters in the Maratha period. The fort-documentation site durgbharari.in says the hill has existed as a fortified point since the Satavahana era and lists later control by the Chalukya, Rashtrakuta, Yadava, Bahamani, Adil Shahi, Maratha and Peshwa powers. The brief claim that the ancient Shilahara dynasty founded it could not be verified against a reliable source this session, so it is left out here; the firmly datable history begins with the Marathas.

The Maratha chapter is the clearest. Per durgbharari.in, Maratha forces brought Rajmachi — along with Lohgad, Tung, Tikona and Visapur — into Shivaji’s Swarajya during the 1657 Kalyan campaign, and the fort stayed in Maratha hands through Sambhaji Maharaj’s reign. Around 1704, during Aurangzeb’s Deccan wars, the same source says the Mughals captured the fort, which returned to the Marathas after Aurangzeb’s retreat; because sources differ on whether the Mughal hold lasted one year or two, the exact recapture date is best treated as uncertain.

After Shivaji’s era the fort passed through familiar Maratha hands. According to durgbharari.in, Shahu Maharaj handed Rajmachi to the admiral Kanhoji Angre in 1713, it came under Peshwa Bajirao I around 1730, and it finally fell to the British in 1818 at the close of the Third Anglo-Maratha War. Its Wikipedia entry adds, citing historian M. S. Naravane, that Rajmachi played a strategic role in the First Anglo-Maratha War (1775–1782).

One dated relic survives on the plateau. Fort records note an inscription on a large artificial tank recording that it was built in Shaka 1712 (1790 CE) by one Ramrao Narayan Rao Deshmukh, with a small Hemadpanti-style Shiva temple beside it.

The two trek routes: Lonavala and Karjat

There are two main ways up to Rajmachi: an easy, mostly level walk of about 15 km from Lonavala, and a shorter but steep climb from the Karjat side via Kondhane village. The Lonavala route suits first-timers and families; the Karjat route rewards fitter trekkers and lets you see the Kondane caves on the way.

From Lonavala (easy, about 15 km): The fort-record site durgbharari.in describes the Lonavala approach as roughly 15 km via Tungarli, taking about five hours on foot; the travel guide Holidify gives a similar distance of around 15 km and about three and a half hours, calling it a mostly flat walk. The path undulates along the ridge rather than climbing hard, which is why it is the popular monsoon and overnight-camping option.

From Karjat (steep, via Kondhane): From Karjat you take a local bus or rickshaw to Kondivade (Kondhane) village and then follow a rugged, steep footpath up to Udhewadi, which durgbharari.in puts at about three hours. This side is harder on the legs but more direct, and it passes the Kondane Buddhist caves near the base.

In the dry months a jeep track from Lonavala (via Jambhali Phata) reaches close to the plateau, leaving a short final walk of roughly 5 km to Udhewadi; Holidify notes this road is generally usable from about November to May for sturdy vehicles. In the monsoon the track is slushy and most people walk the full route.

The Kondane Buddhist caves

The Kondane (also spelled Kondana or Kondhane) caves are a group of 16 rock-cut Buddhist caves from the first century BCE, set at the western foot of Rajmachi about 14 km from Karjat station on the Central Railway, according to the Wikipedia article on the Kondana Caves. They are reached by descending from Rajmachi village or on the climb up from the Karjat side.

The centrepiece is Cave 1, a chaitya (prayer hall) that Wikipedia, drawing on James Fergusson’s survey, describes as about 66.5 feet long with a 9.5-foot dagoba (stupa) and says is very similar in plan and dimensions to the famous chaitya at Bhaja nearby. A Brahmi inscription at the site reads, in translation, “Made by Balakena, the pupil of Kanha (Krishna).” Other caves are viharas (monastic cells).

The caves are fragile. Wikipedia notes that water trickling down the rock face, even through much of the dry season, has greatly damaged them, and the chaitya is heavily ruined. Tread carefully, do not climb on the carvings, and in the monsoon mind the slippery approach.

Best time to visit, and the firefly season

The monsoon, roughly June to September, is the most popular time to trek Rajmachi, when the Sahyadris turn green and waterfalls run; the pre-monsoon weeks of late May to mid-June are the window for the firefly displays. Winter, from October to February, gives cool, clear days that suit overnight camping and the long Lonavala walk, while late spring before the rains is hot and dry.

The firefly season is a real draw but is not an official event. Several trek-operator listings put fireflies in the Sahyadri forests, Rajmachi among the sites, in the weeks before the monsoon — broadly late May to mid-June — with exact dates announced each year in May. These are operator claims rather than a Maharashtra Forest Department notice, so confirm timing and any trek permissions locally before planning around them.

Seasons below reflect the general Western Ghats pattern; check the India Meteorological Department forecast and local trekking groups close to your trip, as monsoon trails can be closed or dangerous after heavy rain.

How to reach Rajmachi Fort

The usual way to reach Rajmachi Fort is to take a train to Lonavala or Karjat on the Mumbai–Pune line and then trek up, since there is no direct road to the plateau. Lonavala is the easier base for the gentle route; Karjat is the base for the steep route past the Kondane caves.

By rail: Lonavala station sits on the Central Railway’s Mumbai–Pune line and, per its Wikipedia entry, is the origin of the Lonavala–Pune suburban locals and a halt for Mumbai–Pune express and mail trains; Karjat lies about 20 km away on the same corridor. Check live train numbers and timings on the National Train Enquiry System (NTES) or IRCTC before you travel, as local timetables change.

By road: Lonavala is on the old Mumbai–Pune highway and close to the Mumbai–Pune Expressway, so it is well served by buses and taxis from both cities; from Lonavala you either walk the ridge or, in the dry season, take a jeep part-way along the Tungarli track. For the Karjat side, drive or take a rickshaw to Kondivade village and start walking there.

By air: Pune Airport (PNQ) and Mumbai’s Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (BOM) are the two nearest airports; from either, continue by train or road to Lonavala or Karjat. Exact airport-to-Lonavala distances vary by route, so plan the final leg by rail or taxi (planning note — reconfirm).

What to see on the fort

The main sights on Rajmachi are the two citadels, the temples on the plateau and the monsoon views, rather than any single ticketed monument. Fort records describe Ganesh and Maruti temples near the entrance, the Bhairavanath temple between the citadels, old gateways, water cisterns and a large tank, all spread across the machi.

Shrivardhan balekilla is the highlight for views and, in the monsoon, for the sight of the Kataldhar waterfall. Manaranjan balekilla has its own gateways and bastions to explore. The Bhairavanath temple, per durgbharari.in, holds idols of Bhairav and Jogeshwari and nearby relics including broken cannons, three stone lamp-towers (deepmala) and a Gajalakshmi carving, along with memorial sati stones.

A suggested two-day itinerary

Rajmachi rewards an overnight stay, so the simplest plan is a two-day trip based at Udhewadi. A fit walker can do it as a long day from Lonavala, but staying over lets you catch sunrise or sunset from Shrivardhan.

• Day 1 (afternoon): Reach Lonavala by train, start the ~15 km walk via Tungarli in the cooler afternoon, reach Udhewadi by evening, and settle into a homestay or camp.
• Day 1 (evening): Walk up Shrivardhan for sunset and the plateau views; in the pre-monsoon window, join a guided firefly walk if one is running.
• Day 2 (morning): Climb Shrivardhan for sunrise, then explore Manaranjan, the Bhairavanath temple and the tank at an easy pace.
• Day 2 (later): Either walk back to Lonavala, or descend the steep Karjat side via the Kondane caves to Kondivade and a train from Karjat.

For the wider area and other day trips, our Lonavala and Khandala travel guide sets out bases, viewpoints and timings around the twin hill towns.

Where to stay and budget

The on-fort choice is a simple homestay or a tent at Udhewadi, while fuller hotels sit down in Lonavala. Udhewadi is a small plateau village and, per fort records, offers basic lodging, home-cooked meals and space to camp; it is the natural base if you want to be on the fort at dawn.

• Udhewadi homestays and camping (around ₹500–₹1,500 per person): Basic rooms or tents with simple meals; book through a trek organiser or by asking in the village. Carry cash.
• Lonavala budget and mid-range (around ₹1,500–₹4,000 a night): Guesthouses and hotels in town, handy if you prefer to start the walk fresh in the morning.
• Lonavala resorts (₹5,000 and up): Larger resorts for travellers combining the trek with a Lonavala break; book ahead on weekends and in the monsoon.

Rates are indicative planning bands as of October 2026 and rise sharply on weekends, holidays and through the monsoon; always reconfirm when booking. Many visitors trek with an organised group, which bundles stay, meals and a guide.

Assumptions: one night at Udhewadi, two people sharing, trains and local hops for transport, meals in the village or Lonavala. Long-distance travel to Lonavala or Karjat is extra and varies by class and date.

Permits, rules and safety

No permit or entry ticket is needed to trek to Rajmachi Fort, which is an open hill fort rather than a gated, ticketed monument; the main concern is monsoon safety. There is no Inner Line Permit or protected-area pass for the walk itself. Any organised firefly night-trek may need booking with an operator, and the Maharashtra Forest Department can restrict access on specific forest stretches, so check locally in the pre-monsoon weeks.

• Monsoon footing: Trails and the Kondane-caves approach turn slippery and streams swell in the monsoon; wear shoes with grip, go slowly on rock, and turn back if water is running high.
• River and stream crossings: The Karjat side crosses streams near the base; never wade a fast or rising flow, and avoid the route after heavy overnight rain.
• Start early, carry water: The long Lonavala walk has limited shade in dry months; start early, carry enough water and food, and do not rely on finding supplies on the trail.
• Cash and network: Carry cash, as Udhewadi is a small village with limited card/UPI acceptance and patchy mobile network; tell someone your plan.
• Healthcare: The nearest hospitals and pharmacies are in Lonavala and Karjat towns; carry a basic first-aid kit and any personal medicines.
• Protect the heritage: Rajmachi is a protected monument and the Kondane caves are fragile — do not deface walls or carvings, and carry all litter back down.
• Solo and women trekkers: The Lonavala route is busy on monsoon weekends but quiet midweek; prefer daylight, go in a group on the quieter Karjat side, and use a known guide for night walks.

Nearby places

Rajmachi pairs naturally with Lonavala and Khandala’s viewpoints and lakes, the Kondane caves at its own foot, and the Karla and Bhaja Buddhist caves a short way off; the hill station of Matheran and the Bhimashankar temple-and-sanctuary are longer add-ons in the same Sahyadri belt. A weekend can comfortably combine Rajmachi with one or two of these.

To plan a wider loop, see our Maharashtra travel guide for how these Sahyadri stops connect, and our guide to Matheran if you want to add the car-free hill station from the Karjat side.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Rajmachi Fort located?

Rajmachi Fort is in Maval taluka, Pune district, Maharashtra, in the Sahyadri range (Western Ghats) between Lonavala and Karjat. According to its Wikipedia entry it sits above Udhewadi village and is made of two citadels, Shrivardhan and Manaranjan, around a plateau. The nearest town and trailhead is Lonavala, about 15 km away on foot.

How do I trek to Rajmachi Fort?

There are two routes to Rajmachi Fort. The easy one is an undulating walk of about 15 km from Lonavala via Tungarli, roughly four to five hours one way. The harder one is a steep climb from the Karjat side via Kondhane village, about three hours up, passing the Kondane Buddhist caves near the base (durgbharari.in and Holidify, as of October 2026).

Is there an entry fee or permit for Rajmachi Fort?

No entry ticket or special permit is needed to trek Rajmachi Fort, which is an open hill fort rather than a ticketed monument. An organised firefly night-trek may need booking through an operator, and the Maharashtra Forest Department can restrict some forest stretches in the pre-monsoon weeks, so check locally. Carry cash, as the village has limited digital payments (as of October 2026).

When is the best time to visit Rajmachi, and when are the fireflies?

The monsoon, June to September, is the most popular time for green scenery and waterfalls, while October to February gives clear, cool days ideal for camping. The fireflies appear in the pre-monsoon weeks, broadly late May to mid-June, according to trek-operator listings; dates are announced each year in May, so confirm before planning a firefly trek.

What are the Kondane caves near Rajmachi?

The Kondane (Kondana) caves are a group of 16 rock-cut Buddhist caves from the first century BCE at the western foot of Rajmachi, about 14 km from Karjat station on the Central Railway, per the Wikipedia article on the Kondana Caves. The main cave is a chaitya very similar to the one at nearby Bhaja. The carvings are fragile and water-damaged, so visit with care.

Who built Rajmachi Fort and what is its history?

Rajmachi has been a fortified point since the Satavahana era, according to fort records, but its clearest history is Maratha: forces brought it into Shivaji’s Swarajya in the 1657 Kalyan campaign. It was taken by the Mughals around 1704, handed to Kanhoji Angre in 1713, came under the Peshwas around 1730, and fell to the British in 1818 (durgbharari.in — attributed; some early claims are uncertain).

Last updated and sources

Rajmachi Fort suits trekkers and history-minded travellers near Mumbai and Pune who want an easy ridge walk with real heritage; go in the monsoon for green and waterfalls, in winter for clear camping, or in the pre-monsoon weeks for the fireflies — and always check trail safety before you set out.

Last updated: 16 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: Wikipedia, Rajmachi (location, twin citadels, Udhewadi, protected-monument and First Anglo-Maratha War notes); Wikipedia, Kondana Caves (number, dating, chaitya dimensions, distance from Karjat); durgbharari.in, Rajmachi (history, structures, trek routes — attributed fort-documentation site); Wikipedia, Lonavala railway station (Central Railway services, travel times, Karjat distance); Holidify, Rajmachi travel guide (route distances and jeep-track season); Treks and Trails, fireflies events (pre-monsoon firefly season — operator listing, attributed); India Meteorological Department, mausam.imd.gov.in (seasonal planning). Accessed October 2026.