Khasi and Jaintia Weaving of Meghalaya

Khasi and Jaintia weaving is the textile tradition of the Khasi and Jaintia peoples of Meghalaya, in the Northeast of India, best known for Ryndia weaving, the handloom craft of eri silk. In this tradition, eri silkworms are reared and their silk is handspun into yarn and then handwoven into shawls, wraps and other textiles, often coloured with natural dyes drawn from plants and other local sources. Eri silk, sometimes called the peace silk or endi silk, has a soft, warm, matt character distinct from glossy silks, and Ryndia cloth is admired for its natural tones and texture. The craft is associated with villages of the Meghalaya hills, including those of the Ri-Bhoi area. Readers who enjoy India’s fine textile crafts may also explore the Kanjeevaram silk guide. This guide describes Khasi and Jaintia weaving, eri silk, its dyeing, its technique and its present-day place, treating the communities respectfully throughout.

Key Takeaways

• Khasi and Jaintia weaving is the textile tradition of the Khasi and Jaintia peoples of Meghalaya.
• It is best known for Ryndia, the handloom craft of eri silk.
• Eri silkworms are reared and their silk is handspun into yarn and handwoven into cloth.
• The textiles, including shawls and wraps, are often coloured with natural dyes.
• Eri silk, sometimes called peace silk, has a soft, warm, matt character.
• The craft is associated with villages of the Meghalaya hills, including the Ri-Bhoi area.

The sections below explain what Khasi and Jaintia weaving is, who the communities are, what eri silk is, how the yarn is spun and dyed, how the cloth is woven, its qualities and why it still matters.

Quick Facts

What Is Khasi and Jaintia Weaving?

Khasi and Jaintia weaving is the textile tradition of the Khasi and Jaintia peoples of Meghalaya, best known for Ryndia, the handloom craft of eri silk. In this tradition, eri silk is handspun into yarn and handwoven into shawls, wraps and other textiles, often coloured with natural dyes drawn from local plants and materials. The cloth, known as Ryndia, is admired for its soft, warm, matt character and its natural tones, quite distinct from glossy silks. The craft is rooted in the villages and households of the Meghalaya hills, including the Ri-Bhoi area, where the rearing of the silkworms, the spinning of the yarn and the weaving of the cloth form a whole tradition. Khasi and Jaintia weaving is thus both a textile and an expression of community life. Its eri silk and natural dyes define its character. It is a distinctive handloom craft of the Northeast.

Who Are the Khasi and Jaintia Peoples?

The Khasi and Jaintia are among the principal communities of Meghalaya, a hill state in the Northeast of India known for its green hills, heavy rains and rich cultural traditions. They maintain distinctive customs, languages and crafts, within which handloom weaving, and especially the working of eri silk, holds an important place. The communities live in the hills and villages of the state, including the Ri-Bhoi area associated with eri weaving, where the rearing of silkworms, spinning and weaving form part of household and village life. Their textiles, like their wider heritage, reflect the identity and way of life of the communities. As with all communities and their heritage, these traditions deserve to be treated with respect and understood within their own context. The Khasi and Jaintia are the makers and bearers of this weaving tradition. Their life and land shape the craft. The weaving is part of their living heritage.

What Is Ryndia or Eri Silk?

Ryndia is the handloom cloth of eri silk woven by the communities of Meghalaya, and eri silk, sometimes called endi silk or peace silk, is a soft, warm silk with a matt character distinct from glossy silks. Eri silk is produced by a particular silkworm reared for the purpose, and the silk is handspun into yarn before being woven. Unlike the shiny, reeled silks of some other traditions, eri silk has a softer sheen and a warm, woolly feel, giving Ryndia cloth its characteristic texture and natural appearance. The name peace silk is sometimes used because of the way the silk can be gathered, which differs from reeled silk production. Eri silk is well suited to warm shawls and wraps. Its soft, matt character is central to the appeal of Ryndia. Eri silk gives the cloth its warmth and texture. It is the heart of the tradition.

How Are Eri Silkworms Reared?

Eri silkworms are reared by the communities of Meghalaya as the first stage of the Ryndia tradition, providing the silk that is then spun and woven. The rearing of the silkworms is carried out as part of household and village life, with the worms fed on suitable leaves until they produce their silk. This rearing links the craft directly to the land and to the agricultural rhythm of the communities, so that the textile tradition begins with the care of living creatures. Because eri silk can be gathered in a way that differs from reeled silk, it is sometimes known as peace silk. The reared silk is then handspun into yarn, ready for dyeing and weaving. The rearing of the worms is the foundation of the whole craft. It ties the tradition to village life and the land. The care of the silkworms begins the making of the cloth.

How Is Eri Silk Spun and Woven?

Eri silk is handspun into yarn and then handwoven on the loom into shawls, wraps and other textiles, in a tradition carried out largely within households. After the silk is gathered, it is spun by hand into yarn, work that gives eri its characteristic soft, slightly uneven, woolly character. The yarn is then woven on the loom, following the techniques and patterns of the community, to produce the finished Ryndia cloth. The handspinning and handweaving together give the cloth its natural texture and matt appearance, distinct from the smoothness of machine-made or reeled silk fabric. The whole process, from spinning to weaving, is done by hand and relies on inherited skill. Because practices vary, the exact methods differ between weavers and villages. The handspinning and handweaving are the heart of the craft. They give Ryndia its warmth and texture. The handwork defines the cloth.

How Is Ryndia Cloth Dyed with Natural Colours?

Ryndia cloth is often coloured with natural dyes, drawn from plants and other local materials, giving the textiles their characteristic soft, earthy tones. The use of natural dyes, rather than synthetic colours, is a notable feature of the tradition, producing warm browns, yellows, reds and other muted shades that suit the matt character of eri silk. The dyes are obtained and applied by hand, following the knowledge of the community, so that the colours are tied to local plants and materials. These natural tones give Ryndia its distinctive, organic appearance, in keeping with its handspun, handwoven character. The use of natural dyes also adds to the appeal of the cloth for those who value traditional and eco-friendly textiles. The natural colours are part of the identity of Ryndia. They give the cloth its earthy, warm tones. Natural dyeing is a hallmark of the tradition. It suits the character of eri silk.

What Are the Qualities of Ryndia Cloth?

Ryndia cloth is valued for its softness, warmth and natural, matt character, qualities that come from handspun eri silk and natural dyes. Unlike glossy, reeled silks, eri silk has a soft sheen and a warm, woolly feel, so that Ryndia shawls and wraps are comfortable and well suited to cooler weather. The handspinning and handweaving give the cloth a natural, slightly uneven texture, while natural dyes give it warm, earthy tones, together producing a textile of understated beauty. These qualities make Ryndia attractive both as a traditional garment and as a textile admired for its natural, handmade character. The combination of warmth, softness and natural colour is central to the cloth’s appeal. Its matt texture sets it apart from shiny silks. Its natural tones give it quiet beauty. These qualities define Ryndia. They set it apart from factory textiles.

What Textiles and Garments Are Made?

Khasi and Jaintia weaving produces shawls, wraps and other textiles from eri silk, worn for warmth and on occasions within community life. The soft, warm eri silk is well suited to shawls and wraps that provide comfort in the cool hill climate, and such garments are among the most characteristic products of the Ryndia tradition. The cloth, in its natural tones and texture, clothes the communities and carries their textile identity, worn in daily life and on special occasions. Other textiles and products may also be made from the cloth, extending the use of the handspun, handwoven silk. The particular garments and their use follow the traditions of the communities and are best understood within that context. The shawls and wraps are the signature products of the craft. They express the communities’ textile identity. They are woven for warmth and for occasion. Eri silk clothes the people of the hills.

Where Is Khasi and Jaintia Weaving Practised?

Khasi and Jaintia weaving is practised in the hills and villages of Meghalaya, including those of the Ri-Bhoi area associated with eri silk weaving. The green, rainy hill country of the state is the home of the Khasi and Jaintia communities and of their crafts, within which eri rearing, spinning and weaving form part of household and village life. The craft is carried out within homes and villages, where the knowledge of rearing the silkworms, spinning the yarn, dyeing with natural colours and weaving the cloth is kept and passed on. The textiles are identified closely with the communities and with the Meghalaya hills, so that Ryndia is a marker of this particular region and its people. The combination of the silkworms, the natural dyes, the loom and the skill of the makers roots the craft in its home. Ryndia belongs to the Meghalaya hills. Its home gives it identity and meaning.

What Role Does Weaving Play in Community Life?

Weaving plays an important role in the life of the Khasi and Jaintia communities as a household and village craft, from the rearing of silkworms to the spinning and weaving of eri silk. The making of Ryndia is part of the everyday life and economy of the communities, with the knowledge of each stage kept and passed on within families and villages. The woven shawls and wraps, in their natural tones, clothe the communities and carry their textile identity, worn in daily life and on special occasions. The craft also provides a source of livelihood, particularly for women and households engaged in rearing, spinning and weaving. Weaving is thus woven into the fabric of community life, linking the land, the silkworms and the loom. The craft clothes the communities and supports their livelihoods. It is part of their living heritage. Ryndia binds together the land, the makers and the cloth.

What Is the History of the Craft?

Khasi and Jaintia weaving, and the eri silk tradition in particular, has a long history in Meghalaya, rooted in the household and village life of the communities, though its precise early origins rest on tradition rather than exact record. For a long time, the communities have reared eri silkworms, handspun the silk and woven it into cloth coloured with natural dyes, building up skill and knowledge over generations. The craft became part of the everyday life, dress and economy of the Khasi and Jaintia, closely tied to the land and the agricultural rhythm of the hills. Over time, Ryndia and Meghalaya eri silk have come to be recognised as distinctive textiles of the Northeast, admired for their natural character. Because much of the early story rests on tradition, it is best described in general terms. What is clear is that the craft is long-rooted in community life. Its history lies in the villages of the Meghalaya hills.

Who Are the Weavers?

Khasi and Jaintia weaving is carried out largely by women within households and villages, who rear the silkworms, spin the yarn, dye with natural colours and weave the cloth. The whole tradition, from rearing to weaving, is a skill learned within families and the community, and women have traditionally been central to it, producing cloth for their households and for sale. The knowledge of each stage of the craft, including the natural dyes and the weaving of Ryndia, is kept and transmitted by these makers, sustaining the textile identity of the communities. For many, the craft is both an inherited tradition and a source of livelihood through the handloom trade and interest in natural, handmade textiles. Like many handloom crafts, it depends on keeping skilled makers in the trade and on fair returns for their work. The makers, especially the women among them, are the craft’s living heart. Their skill keeps the tradition alive.

Does Khasi and Jaintia Weaving Have a GI Tag?

Khasi and Jaintia eri silk weaving, or Ryndia, is recognised as a distinctive traditional craft of Meghalaya, valued as part of the region’s rich textile heritage. It is promoted and supported as a characteristic craft of the communities, admired for its handspun eri silk and natural dyes. Whether the craft holds a specific Geographical Indication is best confirmed with the official Geographical Indications Registry and the relevant state authorities, since the status of individual crafts can vary and change over time, and details should be checked rather than assumed. Whatever the formal position, the weaving is clearly and strongly identified with the Khasi and Jaintia communities and the Meghalaya hills. Recognition and heritage interest help protect the craft and sustain its makers. They also encourage the making and buying of genuine eri silk textiles. The bond between the craft and its communities remains central to its identity.

How Can You Buy Authentic Ryndia Eri Silk?

Authentic Ryndia eri silk can be bought from recognised Meghalaya handloom emporiums, cooperatives, trusted weavers and reputable stores that identify the cloth as genuine handspun, handwoven eri silk. A genuine piece has the soft, warm, matt character of eri silk, the natural, slightly uneven texture of handspun yarn and the earthy tones of natural dyes, rather than the glossy, uniform look of machine-made or synthetic fabric. Buyers can feel the texture, ask whether the silk is handspun and handwoven and whether natural dyes have been used, and ask about the weaver and the village. Buying from recognised emporiums, cooperatives or known weavers helps income reach the makers and supports the communities, while treating the craft with due respect. Careful and respectful buying rewards genuine craftsmanship. It secures a true piece of Meghalaya heritage. It also supports the weaving communities of the hills. Genuine eri silk honours the tradition behind it.

Khasi and Jaintia Weaving Today

Khasi and Jaintia weaving today remains a living tradition of Meghalaya and a valued part of the textile heritage of the Northeast, treasured for its handspun eri silk and natural dyes. Weavers, many of them women, continue to rear the silkworms, spin the yarn, dye with natural colours and weave the Ryndia cloth, which continues to be worn in daily life and on special occasions, as well as sought by admirers of natural, handmade textiles. Growing interest in eri silk, natural dyes and sustainable, eco-friendly textiles has brought wider attention and markets to the craft. At the same time, the tradition faces real challenges, including competition from machine-made and synthetic fabrics, fair returns for makers and the need to pass on skills to new generations. Readers can support the tradition by choosing genuine eri silk through recognised sources. Khasi and Jaintia weaving endures as a natural, warm expression of the communities’ heritage. Its eri silk keeps the tradition alive.

Sources & Further Reading

• Development Commissioner (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India (handlooms.nic.in).
• Geographical Indications Registry, Government of India (ipindia.gov.in).
• Directorate of Sericulture and Weaving, Government of Meghalaya.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Khasi and Jaintia weaving?

Khasi and Jaintia weaving is the textile tradition of the Khasi and Jaintia peoples of Meghalaya, best known for Ryndia, the handloom craft of eri silk. Eri silkworms are reared and their silk is handspun and handwoven into shawls and wraps, often coloured with natural dyes. The cloth is admired for its soft, warm, matt character.

What is eri silk or Ryndia?

Ryndia is the handloom cloth of eri silk woven in Meghalaya, and eri silk, sometimes called endi silk or peace silk, is a soft, warm silk with a matt character distinct from glossy silks. It is handspun into yarn before weaving, giving Ryndia cloth its characteristic warm, woolly texture and natural appearance.

How is Ryndia cloth coloured?

Ryndia cloth is often coloured with natural dyes drawn from plants and other local materials, giving warm, earthy tones such as browns, yellows and reds. The use of natural dyes, applied by hand according to the knowledge of the community, suits the matt character of eri silk and gives the cloth its distinctive, organic appearance.

Who makes Khasi and Jaintia eri silk?

Khasi and Jaintia eri silk weaving is carried out largely by women within households and villages of Meghalaya, including the Ri-Bhoi area. They rear the silkworms, spin the yarn, dye with natural colours and weave the cloth, keeping and passing on the knowledge of each stage of the craft within the community.

Does Khasi and Jaintia weaving have a GI tag?

Khasi and Jaintia eri silk weaving, or Ryndia, is recognised as a distinctive traditional craft of Meghalaya. Whether it holds a specific Geographical Indication is best confirmed with the official Geographical Indications Registry and the relevant state authorities, as the status of individual crafts can vary and should be checked rather than assumed.

How can I identify authentic Ryndia eri silk?

Authentic Ryndia eri silk has the soft, warm, matt character of eri silk, the slightly uneven texture of handspun yarn and the earthy tones of natural dyes, rather than a glossy, uniform machine-made look. Buying from recognised Meghalaya handloom emporiums, cooperatives or known weavers helps ensure authenticity and supports the makers.