Chadar trek: a full guide to the frozen Zanskar walk

The Chadar trek is a winter walk on the frozen surface of the Zanskar river in Ladakh, and it is one of the hardest journeys an amateur trekker in India can attempt. For roughly a week you follow a sheet of ice through a deep gorge, camp in caves, and endure temperatures that can fall to -25 C or lower. This guide sets out the route, the season, the cost, and the mandatory rules honestly, because this is a serious and genuinely risky trek, not a scenic stroll.

The Chadar trek crosses the frozen Zanskar river in Ladakh over about six to nine days, reaching the frozen waterfall at Nerak near 3,400 m. It runs only in the deep winter window of mid-January to late February, needs a medical clearance in Leh, and must be booked through a registered operator.

Quick facts about the Chadar trek

Chadar means “sheet” in Ladakhi, the name for the frozen crust that forms over the Zanskar in winter. For generations it was the only winter link between the Zanskar valley and Leh, used by villagers to carry goods when the high road passes closed. Today it is walked mainly as an adventure trek.

The classic version starts near Chilling, at the road head about 60-70 km from Leh, and follows the river up to the frozen waterfall at Nerak before returning the same way. According to the English Wikipedia entry on the Chadar trek, which cites the route reaching Nerak at about 11,150 ft (roughly 3,400 m), the gorge is walled by near-vertical cliffs and the river narrows to a few metres in places. Longer, expedition-style variations continue on toward Lingshed or Padum.

Best time: why only January and February

The Chadar trek exists only when the river freezes hard enough to walk on, and that happens for a narrow window in deep winter. The trek runs from about mid-January to late February. Outside that window the ice is either not yet formed or already breaking up, and the trek does not operate.

Cold is the whole point and the whole danger. Daytime air over the ice often sits around -10 to -15 C, and night temperatures in the gorge and at camp can drop to -25 C or below, with some reports of -30 C. There is no “warm” version of this trek; you are choosing the coldest weeks of the Ladakhi year on purpose.

How to reach: fly to Leh, drive to Chilling

Every Chadar trip begins in Leh, and in winter that means flying. The road passes over the Himalaya are closed by snow, so almost everyone arrives by air at Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL). Air India, IndiGo and SpiceJet list flights from Delhi to Leh; schedules thin out in winter and are weather-dependent, so book flexible fares and keep a buffer day. For planning the wider region, see our Ladakh travel guide.

Leh sits near 3,500 m, higher than the trek itself. You must spend at least three nights here before starting, both to satisfy the rules and to let your body adjust. Operators then drive the group to the road head near Chilling or Shingra Koma to begin walking on the ice.

The route, day by day

Itineraries vary with ice conditions and are shortened or rerouted every year, so treat the following as a typical shape rather than a fixed schedule. Guides read the ice each morning and change the plan as needed.

• Days 1-3 (Leh): Arrive, rest, and acclimatise. Short local walks; complete the mandatory medical check and paperwork.
• Day 4: Drive from Leh to the road head near Chilling/Shingra Koma; first steps on the ice; camp at a riverside site or cave.
• Day 5: Walk up the frozen river toward Tibb cave, a natural shelter used as a camp.
• Day 6: Continue to Nerak, the frozen waterfall and the usual turnaround point.
• Days 7-8: Retrace the route back down the Chadar to the road head, then drive to Leh.
• Day 9: Buffer/departure day from Leh.

An average day involves several hours of walking on ice, sometimes crossing patches where the sheet is thin and the guide finds a route along the bank or over rock. Porters usually haul the heavy gear on sledges.

Difficulty, cold injury and altitude sickness

The Chadar trek is rated extreme. The daily distances are moderate, but walking on ice at -20 C for a week, sleeping in freezing caves, and coping with thin air combine into a real physical test. Two medical risks matter most: cold injury and altitude illness. Both can be serious, and the honest answer is that help is hours or days away.

Cold injury. According to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, early frostbite shows as redness or pain, then numbness, tingling, and pale or waxy skin, often on the nose, ears, cheeks, fingers and toes; the person may not notice because frozen tissue goes numb. The CDC lists hypothermia warning signs as shivering, exhaustion, confusion, fumbling hands, memory loss, slurred speech and drowsiness, and advises urgent medical attention if body temperature falls below 35 C (95 F). Layer properly, keep extremities covered and dry, and tell your guide at the first sign of numbness.

Altitude. The CDC notes that altitude illness can affect unacclimatised travellers sleeping at or above about 2,450 m; the whole trek is well above that. Acute mountain sickness feels like a bad hangover: throbbing headache with nausea, dizziness, fatigue or loss of appetite. The dangerous forms, HAPE (fluid in the lungs) and HACE (brain swelling), can be fatal. The CDC’s advice is to ascend gradually and, above all, to descend if symptoms worsen. This is exactly why the three acclimatisation nights in Leh are compulsory.

Mandatory permits, medical test and ALTOA rules

You cannot do the Chadar trek independently. The Leh administration and the All Ladakh Tour Operators Association (ALTOA) require every trekker to go through a registered operator and to clear a fixed set of checks. As of the 2026 season, the framework reported by operators and local coverage includes the following.

• Acclimatisation proof: at least three nights in Leh before the trek, commonly verified using your flight boarding pass.
• Medical fitness check: a compulsory examination in Leh (reported at the Tourist Information Centre in the main market) around your third day, checking oxygen saturation, blood pressure and general fitness. Fail it and you are not allowed on the ice. Cleared trekkers are issued a medical/rescue card.
• ALTOA No Objection Certificate: mandatory for all Chadar trekkers.
• Wildlife/environment permit: the gorge lies in a protected landscape, so a wildlife department permit and environment fee apply, usually arranged with your operator.
• Adventure insurance: operators require trekkers to hold adventure/rescue insurance through an authorised provider.
• Registered operator only: solo and independent trekking is banned; groups must move with registered guides, and eco rules such as carry-out trash bags apply.

Rules and fees change every season and are tightened after safety reviews, so confirm the current requirements directly with your operator and the Leh district administration before you pay for anything.

What the Chadar trek costs

Costs fall into two buckets: the trek package your operator charges, and the compulsory permits and medical/insurance fees paid in Leh. The figures below are indicative planning estimates for the 2026 season and must be reconfirmed; they exclude flights and personal gear.

Meals in Leh, tips for the crew, and any gear you rent are extra. Assume the all-in cost from Delhi runs well above the package price once flights and days in Leh are counted.

Packing for -30 C

Gear is a safety matter here, not a comfort choice. You are dressing for sustained sub-zero cold and for walking on wet ice. Bring, or hire in Leh, at minimum:

• Insulated, waterproof footwear; many trekkers use rubber gumboots (wellingtons) over thick wool socks for the ice, plus dry camp shoes.
• A heavy down jacket, thermal base layers, fleece mid-layers, and windproof outer shell.
• Two pairs of gloves (liner plus heavy waterproof), a balaclava or knit mask, and a warm hat, since the CDC flags nose, ears, cheeks and fingers as the parts frostbite hits first.
• A sleeping bag rated well below the coldest expected night, gaiters, sunglasses and high-SPF sunscreen (glare off ice is intense), and lip balm.
• Insulated water bottles (water freezes), a headtorch, hand-warmer sachets, and any personal medicines. Discuss altitude medication with a doctor before travel.

Safety, ice conditions and a warming climate

This is the section to read twice. The Chadar is beautiful and it is dangerous. The ice is never uniformly solid; it shifts overnight, and people have broken through into freezing water. Rescue is slow and phone signal is absent in the gorge. Go with an experienced registered team, follow your guide’s route choices exactly, and be ready for the trek to be cut short.

A warming climate is making the season shorter and less reliable. In the 2026 season the trek was suspended by the Leh authorities because the river had not frozen enough to be safe. As reported by local coverage, the Meteorological Centre in Leh recorded an average of about -8.6 C between December and February 2026, described as the warmest such winter in eight years. ALTOA General Secretary Tsewang Namgail was quoted saying a continuous stretch of about 30-35 km of solid ice is needed to run the trek safely, and that year it did not form.

The practical takeaway: build slack into your plans, buy refundable or insured bookings where you can, and accept that a “guaranteed” Chadar trek does not exist. If conditions are unsafe, the responsible outcome is that you do not walk. If you want a Ladakh trek with a more dependable season, the summer Markha valley trek is a gentler alternative.

Where to go next in Ladakh

If the Chadar is on your radar, the rest of Ladakh will be too. Most of it is best explored in the warmer months, when the passes reopen.

Frequently asked questions

How difficult is the Chadar trek?

The Chadar trek is rated extreme. Daily distances are moderate, but walking on ice at around -20 C for several days, sleeping in freezing caves, and coping with altitude near 3,400 m make it very demanding. Prior high-altitude trekking experience and strong fitness are strongly advised before you attempt it.

When is the Chadar trek open?

The Chadar trek runs only in deep winter, roughly mid-January to late February, when the Zanskar river freezes solid enough to walk on. Outside that window the ice has not formed or is breaking up, and the trek does not operate. In warm winters the season can be delayed, shortened or cancelled entirely.

Do I need a permit for the Chadar trek?

Yes. You must pass a medical fitness check in Leh, hold an ALTOA No Objection Certificate, a wildlife/environment permit and adventure insurance, and travel with a registered operator. Independent, solo trekking is banned. Confirm the exact current requirements with your operator and the Leh administration before booking.

How much does the Chadar trek cost?

As a 2026 planning estimate, guided packages run about ₹18,000-30,000 or more, plus roughly ₹6,000-10,000 for permits, the medical check and insurance. Flights to Leh, hotel nights, gear hire and tips are extra. Reconfirm all figures with your operator, as prices and fees change each season.

Is the Chadar trek safe?

It carries real risk. The ice can be thin or break, rescue is slow, there is no phone signal in the gorge, and cold injury and altitude illness are genuine dangers. It is safe only relatively, with an experienced registered team, proper gear, and a willingness to turn back. Treat any operator promising a guarantee with caution.

Why was the Chadar trek cancelled in 2026?

In the 2026 season the Leh authorities suspended the trek because the Zanskar river had not frozen enough to be safe. Local coverage reported the warmest December-February in eight years and said the long, continuous sheet of solid ice the trek needs did not form. Warming winters are making the season increasingly unreliable.

Last updated and sources

Go only if you are genuinely fit, experienced with cold and altitude, and willing to accept a trek that may be shortened or called off. The single operating window is mid-January to late February; plan buffer days and insured bookings.

Last updated: 25 September 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: English Wikipedia, “Chadar trek” (route and altitude, used to locate details) en.wikipedia.org; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Preventing Frostbite” and “Preventing Hypothermia” cdc.gov; CDC Yellow Book, “High Elevation Travel & Altitude Illness” cdc.gov; reporting on the 2026 Chadar trek suspension and Meteorological Centre Leh winter temperatures, NewsGram newsgram.com and Kashmir Life kashmirlife.net; operator summary of ALTOA permit and medical rules discoverwithdheeraj.com. Accessed September 2026.

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