Hemavathi, a quiet village in Amarapuram mandal on the Andhra Pradesh–Karnataka border, was once the capital of the Nolamba dynasty, and it still keeps a compact group of early-medieval Shiva temples and a small sculpture gallery. Historically part of Anantapur district, Hemavathi now falls within Sri Sathya Sai district, carved out of the old Anantapur district in 2022. For anyone who likes stone carving away from crowds, this is a rewarding half-day stop.
Hemavathi is a Nolamba-era temple village in Amarapuram mandal of Andhra Pradesh, about 36 km from Madakasira and roughly 150 km from Anantapur town. Its Archaeological Survey of India–protected Doddeswara and Siddeswara Shiva temples, along with an on-site sculpture gallery, draw visitors interested in southern-Deccan stone carving.
Key takeaways
- Hemavathi (also spelled Hemavati; historically Henjeru) was a capital of the Nolamba dynasty, often called the Nolamba-Pallavas, who ruled parts of the southern Deccan between roughly the 8th and 12th centuries CE.
- The Doddeswara Swamy temple has a 6-foot Shivalinga in its sanctum and a black-basalt Nandi about 8 ft long and 4 ft high at the entrance, according to the Sri Sathya Sai district administration.
- The temple group is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India as a Monument of National Importance, listed as a “group of old temples together with adjacent land.”
- The nearest practical railhead is Hindupur (about 70 km) and the nearest major airport is Bengaluru’s Kempegowda International (around 158 km by road).
- October to February is the most comfortable window; this Rayalaseema interior turns very hot and dry from March to June.
- Do not confuse it with the Hemavathi river and reservoir in Karnataka’s Hassan district — a different place entirely.
About Hemavathi and the Nolamba capital
Hemavathi was the capital of the Nolamba dynasty, a line often called the Nolamba-Pallavas who held sway over parts of the southern Deccan in the early-medieval period. The village sits in Amarapuram mandal, close to where Andhra Pradesh meets Karnataka.
In older records the place appears as Henjeru (and locally as Henjerappa, attached to one of the shrines). It lay in the former Anantapur district and now sits in Sri Sathya Sai district, a new district created in 2022 from parts of old Anantapur.
Sources vary on exact dates. A news feature on Nolamba architecture notes the temples were built between the 8th and 12th centuries, while the district site and travel write-ups describe the Doddeswara temple as a Pallava-era shrine of the 8th–10th centuries. Treat the precise years as approximate: the Nolambas were feudatories whose dates scholars still debate.
The building style shows clear Pallava and Chalukya influence, which is why the Nolamba work is frequently grouped as Nolamba-Pallava carving. What survives at Hemavathi is modest in scale but detailed in its figure sculpture and pillar work.
Best time to visit Hemavathi
The best time to visit Hemavathi is the cool, dry window from roughly October to February, when daytime heat is manageable for walking an open stone complex. This part of Rayalaseema is a hot interior plateau, so summer visits are uncomfortable by late morning.
There is no snow, altitude or monsoon-closure issue here; the main variable is heat. The table below is general comfort guidance, not an official forecast — check a live forecast before you go.
| Season | Months | Conditions | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Winter | Nov–Feb | Pleasant, dry, cooler mornings | Best for exploring the temples on foot |
| Summer | Mar–Jun | Very hot and dry | Early-morning visits only; avoid midday |
| Monsoon | Jul–Oct | Occasional showers, greener fields | Fewer visitors; carry rain cover, check rural roads |
How to reach Hemavathi
Reach Hemavathi by road from Hindupur or Madakasira, the two nearest towns, with a cab or local bus for the final leg. There is no airport or railway station in the village itself, so plan the last stretch on the road.
By air, the nearest major airport is Kempegowda International Airport in Bengaluru, Karnataka, roughly 158 km away by road, from where you can drive or take a train towards Hindupur. By rail, Hindupur — on the Bengaluru–Guntakal line — is the most convenient railhead, about 70 km out, with cabs onward.
By road, Hemavathi is about 36 km from Madakasira and in the range of 140–156 km from Anantapur town (the Sri Sathya Sai district site gives roughly 140 km; travel listings give about 156 km). Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (APSRTC) buses and shared vehicles connect Madakasira; from there you will usually need a cab or auto to the temple village.
| Mode | Nearest hub | Approx distance | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air | Kempegowda Intl, Bengaluru | ~158 km | Nearest major airport; drive or rail onward |
| Rail | Hindupur | ~70 km | On the Bengaluru–Guntakal line; cab onward |
| Road | Madakasira | ~36 km | Nearest town; APSRTC buses and cabs |
| Road | Anantapur | ~140–156 km | Sources vary; a long day trip |
| Road | Bengaluru | ~158 km | Common city base for a weekend run |
Temples and carving to see
The main thing to see at Hemavathi is the Doddeswara Swamy temple, a Shiva shrine the district administration describes as the most striking in the group. The whole complex is a cluster of old Shiva temples rather than one large structure, and a travel description puts the precinct at roughly 15 acres.
According to the Sri Sathya Sai district site, the Doddeswara sanctum holds a Shivalinga about 6 feet tall, and a black basalt-granite Nandi about 8 ft long and 4 ft high sits at the entrance; it notes the polished stone idols “sound like metal when struck.” Travel accounts add that the temple’s pillars carry scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, and repeat a tradition that the Chola emperor Rajendra Chola admired these pillars. Treat the Chola link as local tradition, not documented fact.
The nearby Siddeswara Swamy temple (also linked to the name Henjerappa) is the other principal shrine; one travel account describes a seated, meditative Shiva image inside and says the shrine is aligned so that late-afternoon light reaches the deity, though this is a single-source claim worth confirming on site. Additional smaller Shiva shrines in the group are variously named Mallikarjuna (Malleswara) and Virupaksheswara.
| Spot | What it is | Time needed |
|---|---|---|
| Doddeswara Swamy temple | Main shrine: 6-ft linga, carved pillars, basalt Nandi | 30–45 min |
| Siddeswara Swamy temple | Second major Shiva shrine with a seated image | 15–20 min |
| Smaller shrines | Mallikarjuna/Malleswara and Virupaksheswara Shiva temples | 15 min |
| Sculpture gallery | ASI/Archaeology museum of loose Nolamba carvings | 20–30 min |
The sculpture gallery and scattered Nolamba art
Hemavathi has a sculpture gallery on the temple premises, run by the archaeology department, that preserves loose idols, carved panels and architectural fragments from the Nolamba temples. It is a small, site museum rather than a large institution, so set your expectations to “a focused look at good stone carving” rather than a full day’s visit.
Much of the finest Nolamba sculpture from Hemavathi was moved long ago to the Government Museum in Chennai. Writing on that collection describes a Nataraja slab, a standing Surya (sun god) holding lotus stalks, Uma-Maheshwara panels and a tiered slab of dikpalakas (guardians of the directions) — many now broken or worn, but still showing the dense ornament the Nolamba carvers were known for.
The site also yielded Jain images and inscriptions alongside the Shiva material, which is why writers describe Hemavathi as a mixed Jain-and-Hindu centre. If epigraphy interests you, several Nolamba inscriptions from here are published in standard series, though the stones themselves are not all on open display.
A suggested half-day to one-day plan
Hemavathi works best as a half-day visit bolted onto a Hindupur or Bengaluru base, since the village has little in the way of services. Here is a simple way to structure it.
- Morning: Drive out from Hindupur (about 70 km) or Madakasira (about 36 km), aiming to reach the complex before the midday heat.
- At the site: Start at the Doddeswara temple for the linga, Nandi and pillar carving; walk across to the Siddeswara and the smaller shrines; finish at the sculpture gallery.
- Midday: Return to Madakasira or Hindupur for lunch, as reliable eating options in the village are limited.
- Afternoon (optional): If you have a full day, pair it with Lepakshi (near Hindupur) for its Vijayanagara-era temple, or with the Madakasira hill fort.
Where to stay near Hemavathi
Stay in Hindupur for the widest choice, since Hemavathi village itself has no established tourist hotels. Hindupur is a busy town on the main road and rail line, with simple lodges and a few mid-range hotels; Bengaluru, about 158 km away, offers the full range if you prefer a city base.
The ₹ bands below are indicative planning estimates as of October 2026 and should be reconfirmed when you book; tariffs move with season and demand. There are no government tourism rest houses or homestays specifically at the temple that we could verify, so treat Hindupur as your overnight hub.
- Budget: roughly ₹800–1,500 a night for a basic lodge in Hindupur (indicative; reconfirm).
- Mid-range: roughly ₹2,000–4,000 a night for a better hotel in Hindupur (indicative; reconfirm).
- Luxury: for anything higher-end, base yourself in Bengaluru, where rates span a wide band.
Food to try in the Rayalaseema interior
Expect Rayalaseema cooking, which runs hot and hearty, with staples built around ragi (finger millet) and rice. Because the village has few eateries, plan to eat in Madakasira, Hindupur or on the way.
- Ragi sankati (steamed finger-millet balls eaten with a spicy curry or sambar) — a regional staple.
- Natu kodi pulusu (country-chicken curry) and mutton dishes, typically fiery in Rayalaseema style.
- Andhra meals (rice thali with rasam, sambar, vegetables and pickle) at roadside and town restaurants.
- Carry your own water and snacks for the site visit itself, as shops near the temples are limited.
Budget breakdown
A no-frills day trip from Hindupur can be done cheaply, since the sightseeing itself is light on cost. The figures below are indicative planning estimates as of October 2026, assuming two people sharing a cab and a budget lodge; reconfirm all of them before you travel.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Stay (per night, Hindupur) | ₹800–1,500 | ₹2,000–4,000 |
| Day cab (shared, per person) | ₹1,000–1,500 | ₹1,500–2,000 |
| Food (per day) | ₹300–500 | ₹700–1,200 |
| Temple/gallery entry | Not officially verified — likely free or nominal; confirm on site | |
| Approx per person | ₹1,500–2,500 | ₹3,500–5,500 |
Permits, photography and rules
No special permits are required to visit Hemavathi — there is no Inner Line Permit, protected-area permit or park booking involved, as this is an open temple-and-monument site, not a wildlife or border-restricted zone.
Because the temples are an Archaeological Survey of India–protected Monument of National Importance, treat them as a heritage site: do not touch, climb on or chalk the carvings, and dress modestly for the active shrines. We could not verify an official still-camera or drone fee for this specific site; at ASI monuments drone flying usually needs prior permission, so ask the site staff before photographing with a drone. Follow any plastic-free or footwear rules posted at the shrines.
Practical tips
- Services: Hemavathi is a small village; draw cash and refuel in Hindupur or Madakasira, as ATMs and reliable fuel are scarce at the site. Carry some cash even though UPI works in towns.
- Timings: We could not confirm official opening hours for the temples or gallery; go in daylight and ask locally, since small ASI site museums can keep limited hours and a weekly closed day.
- Heat and water: This is a hot, exposed interior. Carry water, a hat and sun cover, and avoid the midday sun from March to June.
- Health: For anything serious, the better-equipped hospitals are in Hindupur or Anantapur; the village has only basic facilities.
- Solo and women travellers: The site is quiet and low-key; visit in daylight, keep your own transport arranged for the return, and tell your lodge your plan, as public transport from the village thins out in the afternoon.
- Packing: Light cottons and good walking shoes year-round; add a light layer for winter mornings and rain cover in the monsoon.
Nearby places
Hemavathi pairs naturally with other historic stops around Hindupur and Madakasira, so you can build a satisfying heritage day without backtracking. The distances below marked “estimate” are planning figures to reconfirm on a map.
| Place | Distance (approx) | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Madakasira | ~36 km | Nearest town; hill fort and local market |
| Lepakshi | ~80–90 km via Hindupur (estimate) | Vijayanagara-era Veerabhadra temple with famous carving |
| Penukonda | ~90 km (estimate) | Vijayanagara fort town with old monuments |
| Bengaluru | ~158 km | Major city base, airport and museums |
Hemavathi sits deep in Rayalaseema, far from the Andhra coast. If you are planning a longer state-wide trip, you can combine it with the river city in our Vijayawada travel guide and the beaches and hills in our Visakhapatnam travel guide, though both lie several hundred kilometres east and work better as separate legs.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Hemavathi located?
Hemavathi is a village in Amarapuram mandal of Sri Sathya Sai district, Andhra Pradesh, close to the Karnataka border. It was historically part of Anantapur district, which was reorganised in 2022. It lies about 36 km from Madakasira and roughly 140–156 km from Anantapur town.
What is Hemavathi famous for?
Hemavathi is famous as a former capital of the Nolamba dynasty and for its early-medieval Shiva temples, chiefly the Doddeswara and Siddeswara shrines, plus an on-site sculpture gallery. The Archaeological Survey of India protects the group as a Monument of National Importance for its Nolamba-Pallava stone carving.
Is Hemavathi the same as the Hemavathi river?
No. The Hemavathi here is a temple village in Andhra Pradesh’s Sri Sathya Sai district. The Hemavathi river is a separate feature in Karnataka, a tributary of the Kaveri with a reservoir at Gorur in Hassan district. They share a name but are entirely different places in different states.
How do I reach Hemavathi?
Reach Hemavathi by road from Hindupur (about 70 km, the nearest convenient railhead on the Bengaluru–Guntakal line) or Madakasira (about 36 km). The nearest major airport is Bengaluru’s Kempegowda International, around 158 km away. There is no airport or railway station in the village, so arrange a cab for the final stretch.
What is the best time to visit Hemavathi?
The best time to visit Hemavathi is October to February, when the Rayalaseema interior is cool and dry enough to walk the open temple complex comfortably. March to June is very hot, so limit summer trips to early morning. The monsoon months bring occasional showers and greener surroundings but little disruption.
Do I need a permit or ticket to visit Hemavathi?
No special permit is needed to visit Hemavathi; it is an open Archaeological Survey of India monument, not a restricted or protected-forest area. We could not verify an official entry fee or opening hours for the temples and gallery, so treat them as likely free or nominal and confirm timings with the site staff before you go.
Last updated and sources
Hemavathi suits travellers who enjoy early-medieval temple carving and quiet heritage sites, best visited on a cool-season day trip from Hindupur or Bengaluru. Go in daylight, carry water, and reconfirm timings locally.
Last updated: 30 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Sri Sathya Sai district administration, srisathyasai.ap.gov.in (Hemavathi); Archaeological Survey of India, List of Monuments of National Importance (Andhra Pradesh), via Wikipedia; Government Museum, Chennai Nolamba collection, Madras Musings; inkl / The Hans India on Nolamba architecture; ManaVoice on the Hemavathi complex; Deccan Chronicle on conservation; location and distance data from villageinfo.in and Trawell.in; Sri Sathya Sai district formation from Wikipedia. Accessed September 2026.
