Khichan cranes: a guide to the demoiselle crane village

Each winter, a small desert village turns into one of the finest places on earth to watch migratory birds, and the Khichan cranes are the reason. From roughly August or September to March, thousands of demoiselle cranes, called kurja in Rajasthani, fly in from Central Asia and gather at a community-run feeding ground in Khichan, near Phalodi in western Rajasthan. The spectacle is the result of a decades-old village feeding tradition, not a zoo or a ticketed park.

Khichan is a village near Phalodi in Phalodi district, Rajasthan, world-known as a winter congregation site for demoiselle cranes. From about August to March, with a peak around November to February, thousands of cranes feed at a village-run enclosure called the chugga ghar and roost on nearby ponds and sand dunes.

Khichan and the kurja: the basics

Khichan is a village in Phalodi tehsil, Phalodi district, in the northern Thar Desert of Rajasthan. According to Wikipedia, it sits about 3.4 km west of Phalodi town centre at an elevation of 219 m, and it became part of the new Phalodi district when Rajasthan reorganised its districts in 2023; older references place it in Jodhpur district.

The bird at the centre of the story is the demoiselle crane (Anthropoides virgo, also written Grus virgo), the world’s smallest crane species. Locally it is called kurja, a name that appears in Rajasthani folk songs. These cranes breed across Central and East Asia and winter in the Indian subcontinent, crossing the Himalayas on the Central Asian Flyway, a journey of thousands of kilometres.

What makes Khichan unusual is density. BirdLife International recognised it as an Important Bird Area in 2004, noting it holds a significant share of the global wintering crane population. The village-run feeding ground draws the birds into one place at predictable times, which is why photographers and birders travel here from across India and abroad.

The chugga ghar feeding ground

The chugga ghar is a fenced, village-run bird-feeding enclosure on the edge of Khichan where the cranes come to eat. Staff spread grain, then withdraw, and the cranes land in waves to feed. Wikipedia describes rectangular enclosures of about 50 by 60 metres, with the morning session lasting roughly 90 minutes before the birds leave for water.

The staple feed is jowar (sorghum), sourced from across Rajasthan and Gujarat. According to RoundGlass Sustain, in the peak months of December to February the feeders put out around 30 quintals (about 3,000 kg) of jowar a day, and the annual feeding bill runs to more than ₹50 lakh, met almost entirely by donations. The Hindu reported a comparable figure of up to 3,000 kg of seed eaten daily as far back as 2008.

Crane counts vary by year and source, so treat any single number with care. The Ramsar listing and media reports cite over 22,000 demoiselle cranes wintering at Khichan each year; a 2023 study by Mali and others in the Journal of the Bombay Natural History Society counted nearly 23,000 in the winter of 2023; an older figure put the total above 30,000 around 2014. The direction is consistent even if the exact count is not.

Feeding happens in a set rhythm. RoundGlass Sustain reports that staff are on duty from about 6:30 am to 10 am, after which the cranes fly to the talabs (ponds). The birds wait outside in batches and enter only once people step back, which is why quiet and distance matter so much here.

The village and Jain conservation story

The feeding tradition grew from one family’s effort, backed by the village’s Jain and Marwari community. By most accounts the practice began in the 1970s, when Ratanlal Maloo, later known as the “Birdman of Khichan,” started scattering grain for birds. A few demoiselle cranes joined, then more, and the daily feeding became an institution. Maloo died in 2009, and the community has continued the work.

As the flocks grew, free-ranging dogs began attacking the cranes. According to RoundGlass Sustain, Maloo persuaded the village council in 1979 to set aside a feeding site, and the chugga ghar was established by the early 1980s; villagers and the Rajasthan Forest Department later fenced the feeding ground and key waterbodies with two-metre fencing, and locals and forest guards patrol it together.

The conservation ethic here is rooted in Jain principles of compassion for living beings, and the feeding is funded by donations, many of them from Oswal Jain families who have moved away but still support the village. This is a living community practice; visitors are guests of that effort, not customers of an attraction. Treat the villagers and their routine with respect, and never describe the feeding as a performance staged for tourists.

Formal protection has followed the grassroots work. The Rajasthan Forest Department notified the Kurja Conservation Reserve in Phalodi district on 26 April 2023, covering about 2.92 sq km, described as India’s first conservation reserve dedicated to the demoiselle crane. In 2025, Khichan’s wetland joined the Ramsar list (more below).

Best time to visit

The best time to visit Khichan for the cranes is November to February, the peak of the wintering season, when flocks are largest and the desert mornings are cool. Cranes begin arriving around August or September and most leave by March, so the shoulder months still offer good sightings with fewer birds.

Weather is the other half of the decision. Phalodi sits in one of India’s hottest zones; the town recorded 51°C on 19 May 2016, which CNN reported as India’s highest temperature at the time. Summer heat makes field birding impractical and uncomfortable, so plan a winter trip.

Where to see the Khichan cranes: best spots and times

The two best places to watch the cranes are the chugga ghar feeding enclosure at dawn and the village ponds and sand dunes where the birds gather afterwards. Mornings are the headline event: the cranes descend on the feeding ground in large waves, generally between about 6:30 am and 10 am, so arrive before sunrise to see the build-up.

After feeding, flocks move to waterbodies to drink, bathe and rest. The Ramsar site is built around Vijaysagar Talab (a pond) and Ratri Nadi (a river or stream bed); Wikipedia and conservation accounts also mention nearby dunes and salt pans where the cranes congregate. These spots offer a second, quieter viewing session through late morning, and dusk brings birds back toward roosts.

Local rooftops and designated viewing points around the feeding ground give the best vantage without crowding the birds. Ask your homestay or a local guide where to stand; villagers know exactly where you can watch without pushing the flocks off their routine.

Photography etiquette and responsible viewing

Responsible viewing at Khichan comes down to one rule: do not disturb the cranes. Demoiselle cranes are wary, and a single person walking too close can flush an entire flock, wasting energy the birds need for their long migration. Stay behind the fence lines and at the marked vantage points.

• Keep quiet and move slowly; no sudden gestures, no shouting, no clapping to make birds fly.
• Do not use flash near the feeding ground or roosts, and switch phones to silent.
• Use a telephoto lens to keep your distance; let the birds fill the frame, not your footsteps.
• Do not enter the feeding enclosure or the fenced waterbodies, and never feed the cranes yourself.
• Do not fly drones over the flocks; low-flying drones scatter birds and are inappropriate at a sensitive wintering site. Seek local and forest-department permission before any aerial filming.
• Leave no litter, especially plastic, and follow any instructions from forest guards or feeding staff.

The point of travelling this far is to see wild cranes behaving naturally. If your presence changes their behaviour, step back.

How to reach Khichan

Reach Khichan by rail to Phalodi Junction, by road from Jodhpur, or by air to Jodhpur airport followed by a drive. Khichan lies about 4 km from Phalodi town, so most visitors base themselves in or around Phalodi and make the short hop to the village.

By air: The nearest airport is Jodhpur, about 139 km from Khichan by road, per Wikipedia. From the airport, hire a taxi or drive via Phalodi. Jaisalmer airport is a further alternative depending on flight schedules; reconfirm operating flights before booking.

By rail: Phalodi Junction is on the broad-gauge network and is the closest railhead, a few kilometres from the village. Check live train services and timings on IRCTC or the National Train Enquiry System before you travel, as services change.

By road: Khichan is reached via Phalodi on the Jodhpur–Jaisalmer and Jodhpur–Bikaner road network. The Jodhpur travel guide is a useful base read, since most trips start there. Our Bikaner travel guide helps if you approach from the northeast.

Where to stay

Most visitors stay in Phalodi, where restored havelis and small hotels sit a short drive from the feeding ground, or in simple homestays in Khichan itself. Phalodi is an old salt-trading town with heritage merchant mansions, some run as heritage stays. Khichan homestays put you closest to the dawn action but are basic; book ahead in peak season.

The figures below are indicative planning estimates (reconfirm; as of October 2026), since tariffs shift with season and demand, and are given as per-night bands for two people. Always confirm directly with the property and book early for the November–February peak, when birders and photographers fill the limited rooms.

Budget breakdown

A no-frills two-day trip to see the Khichan cranes is inexpensive, because the main activity, watching the birds at the feeding ground, is free. The figures below are an indicative planning estimate (reconfirm; as of October 2026) for one person on a two-day, one-night trip, excluding the long-distance train or flight to the region.

Assumptions: self-organised trip, local meals, shared or basic rooms, and travel to Jodhpur or Phalodi booked separately. A hired car from Jodhpur for a day will add to the comfortable band.

A suggested short itinerary

A single full day in Khichan covers the main spectacle; two days let you slow down and add Phalodi and Osian. Here is a simple plan for a weekend built around the cranes.

• Day 1 (arrival): Reach Phalodi by train or road from Jodhpur. Check in, rest through the midday heat, then walk the old salt-town lanes and havelis in the late afternoon. Drive the short distance to Khichan for an evening look at the ponds and dunes.
• Day 2 (cranes): Be at the Khichan feeding ground before dawn for the morning descent, roughly 6:30 am onward. Watch the birds move to the ponds afterwards. Later, visit nearby Osian’s ancient temples or return toward Jodhpur, or push on to Jaisalmer or Bikaner.

Nearby places

Khichan pairs naturally with Phalodi, Osian, Jodhpur, Bikaner and Pokhran, all within a desert day’s drive. Distances below are approximate; confirm road conditions locally.

Practical tips

Khichan is a small desert village, so plan for basics and self-sufficiency. A little preparation makes the dawn starts and midday heat far more manageable.

• Timing: The morning feeding is the main show; be in position before sunrise. Keep midday for rest and Phalodi sightseeing.
• Cash and UPI: Carry enough cash for homestays, autos and donations; UPI works in Phalodi but can be patchy at the village level. Draw cash in Jodhpur or Phalodi.
• Network and power: Mobile coverage is usable but can be weak; download maps offline before you arrive.
• What to pack: Warm layers for cold winter mornings, sun protection for the day, binoculars, and a telephoto lens if you photograph.
• Health: Phalodi town has the nearest medical facilities; carry a basic kit and any personal medicines, as Khichan itself is a village.
• Solo and women travellers: Phalodi and Khichan are generally calm; stick to daylight for solo exploring, use trusted stays, and keep someone informed of your plans.
• Respect the routine: This is a working village and a living conservation effort, not a theme park. Follow local guidance and leave the birds undisturbed.

Frequently asked questions

How many demoiselle cranes come to Khichan, and when?

Khichan hosts over 22,000 wintering demoiselle cranes each year, the figure cited in its Ramsar listing, with a 2023 study counting nearly 23,000 and older reports citing more than 30,000. The birds arrive from about August or September and stay until March, peaking November to February.

What is the chugga ghar at Khichan?

The chugga ghar is Khichan’s community-run bird-feeding enclosure, where villagers scatter jowar (sorghum) and the cranes land in waves to eat. It began in the 1970s as one family’s effort and is now funded by Jain community donations, feeding thousands of cranes daily through the winter season.

What is the best time to visit Khichan for the cranes?

The best time is November to February, when crane numbers peak and desert mornings are cool and dry, ideal for watching and photography. Birds start arriving around August or September and most leave by March. Avoid summer: Phalodi is among India’s hottest places, reaching 51°C in May 2016.

How do I reach Khichan from Jodhpur?

Khichan is about 145–150 km northwest of Jodhpur by road, via Phalodi, per Wikipedia’s figures. Drive or hire a taxi for roughly a three-hour trip, or take a train to Phalodi Junction, the nearest railhead, about 4 km from the village. Jodhpur has the nearest airport, around 139 km away.

Is there an entry fee to see the Khichan cranes?

No, watching the cranes at the chugga ghar feeding ground is free, as it is a community-run conservation effort rather than a ticketed park. The daily feeding costs lakhs of rupees a year and runs on donations, so carrying cash to leave a contribution is the respectful thing to do.

Where should I stay to see the Khichan cranes?

Stay in Phalodi, about 4 km away, which has hotels and restored heritage havelis, or in a basic homestay in Khichan village for the closest dawn access. Rooms are limited, so book well ahead for the November–February peak when birders and photographers fill the area.

Last updated and sources

Khichan suits birders, photographers and slow travellers who want a genuine desert-village experience; go in the cool winter months, November to February, for the fullest flocks and the gentlest weather.

Last updated: 17 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: Wikipedia: Khichan (location, distances, season, chugga ghar, counts, Kurja Conservation Reserve); RoundGlass Sustain: demoiselle cranes community conservation (feeding history, jowar quantities, feeding hours, Jain conservation story, roosting sites); Ramsar Sites Information Service: Khichan wetland (site 2568) and ETV Bharat: Khichan and Menar declared Ramsar sites (2025 Ramsar designation, over 22,000 cranes); CNN: India record temperature (Phalodi 51°C, May 2016). Accessed October 2026.