The Milam Glacier is the frozen head of the Gori Ganga, set deep in the Johar valley of Pithoragarh district, in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Reaching it means a multi-day walk upstream from the hill town of Munsiyari, past the hamlets of Lilam, Bogudiyar and Rilkot, and finally through Milam, a once-busy trading village that emptied out after the 1962 war with China closed the old route to Tibet.
Milam Glacier, in Munsiyari tehsil of Pithoragarh district, Uttarakhand, is a roughly 16 km glacier whose snout lies near 3,870 m and feeds the Gori Ganga river. Trekkers reach it on a 50–60 km walk from Munsiyari, usually over seven to eleven days between May and October.
Key takeaways
- Milam Glacier lies in Munsiyari tehsil, Pithoragarh district, Uttarakhand, about 15 km north-east of Nanda Devi; its snout sits near 3,870 m (per the Milam Glacier page on Wikipedia, drawn from a Survey of India-based topographic map).
- The trek starts at Munsiyari (about 2,200 m) and runs roughly 50–60 km one way up the Johar valley, usually taking 7–11 days round trip.
- Best season is May–June and again September–October; the July–August monsoon brings landslides and the route closes under winter snow.
- As reported by PTI in October 2023, the Indo-Tibetan Border Police dropped the inner line permit that trekkers had long needed beyond Lilam; reconfirm the current rule before you go.
- The Gori Ganga rises at the glacier and flows past Milam village, abandoned after cross-border trade with Tibet ended following the 1962 war.
- The nearest railhead is Kathgodam, about 275 km and roughly a 9-hour drive from Munsiyari.
About Milam Glacier and the Johar valley
Milam Glacier is a valley glacier at the head of the Gori Ganga, in the Munsiyari tehsil of Pithoragarh district, Uttarakhand, about 15 km north-east of the Nanda Devi massif. The Milam Glacier page on Wikipedia, citing a Survey of India-based topographic map, gives the glacier a length of about 16 km and a snout near 3,870 m (12,700 ft), with the ice rising much higher up the mountain wall.
Do not confuse it with Milam the village, which sits just below the snout and lends the glacier its name. The Gori Ganga rises here and runs south through the Johar valley to Munsiyari, later joining the Kali at Jauljibi.
The Johar valley was, for generations, a trade corridor between the Kumaon hills and Tibet, worked by the Bhotiya (a Himalayan trading community). That trade ended after the 1962 India–China war, and villages such as Milam, Burfu and Bilju were largely abandoned. Many families now live in Munsiyari in winter and return to the high villages only in summer, so the route is often described as passing “ghost villages” rather than empty ruins.
Best time to trek to Milam Glacier
The two usable windows are May–June and September–October, when the trail is largely clear of snow and the weather is settled. Most trek operators and the Outlook Traveller account of the route describe these as the standard seasons.
Avoid the July–August monsoon: the Gori Ganga gorge is prone to landslides and road blocks, and the Tribune’s October 2023 report notes that the ITBP had earlier stopped trekkers at Lilam partly for landslide safety. From November the upper valley holds snow and is effectively closed.
| Window | Conditions | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| March–April | Lingering snow higher up; cold, variable | Early, for experienced parties only |
| May–June | Clearer trail, longer days, warmer | Good |
| July–August | Monsoon; landslides, road blocks in the gorge | Avoid |
| September–October | Post-monsoon clarity, crisp air | Best |
| November–February | Snow, severe cold, route closed | Closed |
How to reach Munsiyari, the trailhead
Munsiyari, at about 2,200 m, is the base for the Milam Glacier trek and the last town with reliable road access. You reach it by a long mountain drive from the Kumaon plains; there is no railway or regular airport nearby.
- By rail: The nearest railhead is Kathgodam (station code KGM), about 275 km away and roughly a 9-hour drive, per Himalayan High’s how-to-reach notes. Tanakpur is the other common railhead. Check live train timings on IRCTC/NTES before booking.
- By air: Naini Saini airport at Pithoragarh (NNS) is about 120 km away, but scheduled services there have started and stopped repeatedly since 2019, so confirm before relying on it. Pantnagar is the larger fallback airport.
- By road: Shared jeeps and buses run from Kathgodam and Haldwani towards Almora, Pithoragarh and on to Munsiyari; a private taxi is faster but costlier. The final stretch crosses Kalamuni pass.
| From | Distance | Typical time |
|---|---|---|
| Kathgodam railhead | ~275 km | ~9 hours |
| Naini Saini (Pithoragarh) airport | ~120 km | ~4.5 hours |
| Munsiyari to Lilam (trek start by road/foot) | ~12 km | short drive, then walk |
| Munsiyari to Milam Glacier (trek) | ~54–61 km | 3–5 days on foot |
For the wider region, our Uttarakhand travel guide sets out the main approaches into Kumaon and Garhwal.
The Milam Glacier trek route, stage by stage
The Milam Glacier trek follows the Gori Ganga upstream from Munsiyari through the Johar valley, gaining height gradually over several camps before the glacier snout. Sources differ on the exact one-way distance: the Tribune’s 2023 report puts the glacier “61 km from Munsiyari”, while other accounts give the trek as roughly 54–55 km to Milam village and a little more to the snout. Treat the stage distances below as planning figures and reconfirm with your guide.
| Stage | Approx. distance | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Munsiyari to Lilam | ~12 km | Descent to the Gori Ganga, then along the gorge |
| Lilam to Bogudiyar | ~13 km | Through the narrow river gorge |
| Bogudiyar to Rilkot | ~12 km | Valley widens; old trading halts |
| Rilkot to Milam village | ~15–17 km | Past Martoli and Burfu; the valley opens out |
| Milam village to glacier snout | ~4 km | Side walk to the source of the Gori Ganga |
From Milam, many parties add day walks to the Nanda Devi East base camp area or towards Bilju and the upper meadows, and some continue to high points such as Suraj Kund. These extensions add days and altitude, so plan acclimatisation carefully.
Things to see along the way
The trek’s rewards are the glacier itself, the deserted stone villages, and the Gori Ganga gorge; the walking, not any single monument, is the experience. There are no entry fees or ticket counters on the trail itself.
| Spot | What it is | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Milam Glacier snout | Source of the Gori Ganga, near 3,870 m | The destination; the river emerges from the ice |
| Milam village | Abandoned Bhotiya trading village below the snout | Stone houses, old fields, mountain views |
| Martoli and Burfu | Deserted Johar-valley hamlets | Trade-era architecture, a small temple at Martoli |
| Gori Ganga gorge | Deep river gorge below Bogudiyar | Waterfalls, cliffs, hanging bridges |
| Nanda Devi East views | High meadows beyond Milam | Close views of the Nanda Devi massif |
Munsiyari itself is worth a day before or after. The nearby Khaliya Top meadow and the small tribal heritage museum in town make an easy acclimatisation outing.
Suggested itinerary
A comfortable round trip from Munsiyari takes about nine days of walking plus travel days, with built-in acclimatisation. Faster parties do it in seven; add days for the Nanda Devi East extension.
- Day 0: Reach Munsiyari from Kathgodam; rest, arrange guide, porters and supplies.
- Day 1: Munsiyari to Lilam (drive part-way where the road allows, then walk).
- Day 2: Lilam to Bogudiyar, through the gorge.
- Day 3: Bogudiyar to Rilkot.
- Day 4: Rilkot to Milam village; afternoon rest to acclimatise.
- Day 5: Day walk to the glacier snout and back to Milam; optional Nanda Devi East viewpoint.
- Days 6–8: Retrace Milam–Rilkot–Bogudiyar–Lilam.
- Day 9: Lilam to Munsiyari; onward travel.
Where to stay
You stay in Munsiyari at the start and finish, and in tents or basic trekkers’ huts on the trail. There are no hotels beyond the first village, so camping gear and a support team are essential.
- Munsiyari (budget): Guesthouses and homestays, indicatively ₹800–₹2,000 a night (planning estimate — reconfirm, November 2026).
- Munsiyari (mid-range): Resorts and better hotels with valley views, indicatively ₹2,500–₹5,000 (planning estimate — reconfirm, November 2026).
- Government option: KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) runs tourist rest houses across Kumaon and takes bookings through its portal, kmvn.in; confirm current Munsiyari availability directly with KMVN.
- On the trail: Camping at Lilam, Bogudiyar, Rilkot and Milam, or spartan huts where available; book these through your trek operator.
Book Munsiyari rooms ahead in May–June and September–October, when demand peaks.
Food to try
On the trail you eat whatever your cook carries and prepares, so food is simple, hot and filling rather than varied. In Munsiyari you can try genuine Kumaoni home cooking.
- Bhatt ki churkani (a thick curry of black soybeans) — warming hill staple.
- Aloo ke gutke (spiced sauteed potatoes) — common breakfast and side.
- Madua/mandua roti (finger-millet flatbread) — local grain, good trek fuel.
- Jhingora kheer (barnyard-millet pudding) — a sweet made from a hill millet.
- Dal–bhat and khichdi — the reliable trail dinner, easy at altitude.
Carry your own snacks and electrolyte supplies; shops end at Munsiyari.
Budget breakdown
A guided Milam Glacier trek is the realistic way to go, and most trekkers budget for an all-in package plus personal costs. The figures below are indicative planning estimates for one person on a roughly 9–10 day trip and must be reconfirmed, as live prices were not verified for this guide.
| Item | Indicative cost (₹) | Assumptions |
|---|---|---|
| Guided trek package | 18,000–35,000 | Guide, porters/mules, camping, meals on trail |
| Munsiyari stay (2 nights) | 1,600–10,000 | Budget to mid-range, per the bands above |
| Transport Kathgodam–Munsiyari (return) | 2,000–8,000 | Shared jeep to private taxi share |
| Meals in town, buffers, tips | 2,000–4,000 | Personal spending |
| Rough total | ~24,000–57,000 | Excludes travel to Kathgodam and gear |
Permits and rules
As reported by PTI and carried by The Tribune on 5 October 2023, the Indo-Tibetan Border Police decided to let tourists, mountaineers and trekkers go up to the Milam Glacier without the inner line permit that had been mandatory for decades. The report attributes the change to a letter from an ITBP deputy commandant following a request from the Pithoragarh district administration; Munsiyari’s SDM was quoted confirming it. Previously the ITBP turned back anyone without a permit at Lilam, about 12 km from Munsiyari.
Because this is a recent administrative change and rules in border areas shift, reconfirm the current requirement before you travel. Contact the Pithoragarh district administration or the Munsiyari SDM, and ask the Uttarakhand Forest Department about any forest or protected-area formality, since the upper valley lies close to the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve. Follow standard Himalayan eco rules: carry out all waste, avoid single-use plastic, and do not light fires with scarce high-altitude wood.
Practical tips
- Acclimatise: You climb from about 2,200 m at Munsiyari to near 3,870 m at the snout. Build in rest, ascend gradually, hydrate, and descend if you develop headaches, breathlessness or nausea. Consult a doctor about altitude medication before the trip.
- Guide and support: This is a remote, multi-day route with river crossings; go with a registered guide and porters or mules arranged in Munsiyari.
- Network and cash: Mobile coverage is patchy to absent beyond Munsiyari. Draw cash and stock up in town; do not expect ATMs or reliable UPI on the trail.
- Medical: The nearest hospital is in Munsiyari; serious cases go to Pithoragarh. Carry a first-aid kit and know your evacuation options.
- Solo women: Munsiyari is a small, generally safe hill town; for the trek, join a reputable group or hire vetted local staff rather than walking the gorge alone.
- Packing: Layers, a warm sleeping bag, waterproofs, sturdy boots, sun protection and a headlamp year-round; add extra insulation for September–October nights.
Nearby places
Munsiyari makes a natural hub, and several shorter outings pair well with the glacier trek or stand alone.
| Place | Distance from Munsiyari | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Khaliya Top | ~10 km + short trek | High meadow with panoramic peak views; good acclimatisation |
| Birthi Falls | ~35 km | Roadside waterfall on the approach |
| Thamri Kund | ~10 km | Forest lake and musk-deer habitat |
| Pithoragarh | ~120 km | District town, forts and services |
For planning a longer Kumaon circuit around these, see our Uttarakhand travel guide.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a permit for the Milam Glacier trek?
As reported by PTI in October 2023, the ITBP dropped the inner line permit that trekkers had long needed to go beyond Lilam towards the Milam Glacier. Because border-area rules change, reconfirm the current requirement with the Pithoragarh district administration or the Munsiyari SDM, and ask the forest department about any protected-area formality.
How long is the Milam Glacier trek?
The Milam Glacier trek runs roughly 54–61 km one way from Munsiyari up the Johar valley, with sources differing on the exact figure. Most parties take about seven to eleven days round trip, including acclimatisation and a day at the glacier. Adding the Nanda Devi East extension lengthens it further.
What is the best time to visit Milam Glacier?
The best months are May–June and September–October, when the trail is largely snow-free and skies are clear. Avoid the July–August monsoon, which brings landslides and road blocks in the Gori Ganga gorge, and the November–February winter, when snow closes the upper valley entirely.
How do I reach the Milam Glacier trek base?
The base is Munsiyari, about 2,200 m, reached by road. The nearest railhead is Kathgodam, roughly 275 km and a 9-hour drive away; Naini Saini airport at Pithoragarh (about 120 km) has intermittent flights. Shared jeeps and buses connect Kathgodam and Haldwani to Munsiyari.
Why is Milam village abandoned?
Milam was a prosperous Bhotiya trading village on the route to Tibet until the 1962 India–China war closed the border and ended that trade. Families moved down the valley, leaving stone houses and fields behind. Some return seasonally in summer, so it is a semi-deserted “ghost village” rather than a permanent ruin.
How high is the Milam Glacier?
The Milam Glacier snout sits near 3,870 m (about 12,700 ft) per the Survey of India-based figures cited on Wikipedia, with the ice rising much higher up the mountain. The base town of Munsiyari is about 2,200 m, so trekkers gain roughly 1,700 m over the route and should acclimatise carefully.
Last updated and sources
This route suits fit trekkers with some high-altitude experience who want a quiet, historic Himalayan valley rather than a crowded trail. Go in May–June or September–October, and reconfirm permits and road status first.
Last updated: 3 November 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: The Tribune / PTI, “Now, no inner line permit required to go to Milam glacier” (5 October 2023); Outlook Traveller, “Trekking to the Milam Glacier in Uttarakhand”; Milam Glacier page on Wikipedia (citing a Survey of India-based topographic map for altitude, length and coordinates); Himalayan High, “How to reach Munsiari”; Travel Trade Journal report on the inner line permit relaxation; KMVN booking portal (kmvn.in). Accessed September 2026.
