Sissu, also called Khwaling, is one of the first villages you reach in the Lahaul valley once you drive north through the Atal Tunnel from Manali. For years it was a quiet farming hamlet that most travellers crossed without stopping. Since the tunnel opened in 2020 it has become an easy day trip or overnight halt, with a roadside waterfall, a willow-fringed lake and big mountain views over the Chandra river.
Sissu is a village in the Lahaul valley of Lahaul & Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh, at about 3,120 m (10,235 ft). It sits on the right bank of the Chandra river, a short drive north of the Atal Tunnel, and is known for its waterfall, an adjacent lake, apple and poplar orchards, and views of the Gyephang peak.
Key takeaways
- Sissu (Khwaling) is in Lahaul & Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh, on the right bank of the Chandra river at about 3,120 m (10,235 ft).
- It is roughly 40 km from Manali via the 9.02 km Atal Tunnel, which the Border Roads Organisation opened on 3 October 2020 and which gives Lahaul near year-round road access.
- Summer (June to September) is green and mild; winter brings heavy snow, but the tunnel usually keeps the road to Sissu open when the old Rohtang Pass route is shut.
- The nearest airport is Bhuntar (Kullu) and the nearest railheads are Jogindernagar, Shimla and Chandigarh; the district administration says onward travel is by road.
- Press reports say a green tax has applied to tourist vehicles entering Lahaul since 10 September 2021 (two-wheeler ₹50, car ₹200, SUV ₹300, bus/truck ₹500 as reported; reconfirm before you travel).
- Sissu’s roadside waterfall is strongest in July and August and freezes into an ice column in deep winter.
About Sissu and quick facts
Sissu, also known as Khwaling, is a village in the Lahaul valley of Lahaul & Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh, set on the right bank of the Chandra river at about 3,120 m (10,235 ft). It lies roughly 14 km south-east of Koksar and about 11 km west of the village of Gondhla, so it is one of the first settlements you meet after the tunnel.
The village is apple-and-poplar country. Flat fields and orchards run back from the river to a wall of high peaks, and the valley floor is wide enough that the scale of the mountains is easy to take in from the road. The adjacent village of Shashin is tied to the local deity Ghepan, discussed below.
| Place | Sissu (Khwaling) |
|---|---|
| District / state | Lahaul & Spiti, Himachal Pradesh |
| Altitude | About 3,120 m (10,235 ft) |
| River | Right bank of the Chandra |
| From Manali | About 40 km via the Atal Tunnel |
| Nearest airport | Bhuntar (Kullu) |
| Nearest railheads | Jogindernagar, Shimla, Chandigarh (onward by road) |
| Known for | Waterfall, lake, Gyephang peak views, orchards, winter snow |
How the Atal Tunnel changed Sissu
The Atal Tunnel put Sissu within about an hour’s drive of Manali and gave Lahaul road access for most of the year. According to the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), the 9.02 km tunnel on National Highway 3 bypasses the high Rohtang Pass; Prime Minister Narendra Modi inaugurated it on 3 October 2020.
The south portal is about 25 km north of Manali, and the north portal stands near Teling village in Sissu, at roughly 3,071 m by published reports. Before the tunnel, reaching Lahaul meant crossing Rohtang Pass, which closed under heavy snow for months each year.
The tunnel also shortened the wider journey. By BRO figures the old route via Gramphu ran about 116 km and took 5 to 6 hours, while the tunnel route is about 71 km and roughly two hours, cutting the Manali–Leh distance by around 46 km. For Sissu this turned a hard seasonal trip into an easy outing, which is why visitor numbers here have risen sharply since 2020.
Best time to visit Sissu
The best time to visit Sissu is June to September for green valleys and mild days, or December to February if you specifically want snow. Summer is the safest window for first-timers: the weather is settled, the waterfall is full, and the risks of road closure are lowest. Winter is spectacular but cold and demands care on the road.
| Season | Months | Conditions | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Summer | June–Sept | Mild days, cold nights, green fields, full waterfall | First visits, families, camping |
| Autumn | Oct–mid Nov | Clear skies, golden poplars, sharp cold at night | Photography, quiet trips |
| Winter | Dec–Feb | Heavy snow, sub-zero days, frozen waterfall; tunnel usually open, road may still shut in storms | Snow seekers with winter-driving experience |
| Spring | Mar–May | Thawing snow, slushy patches, variable weather | Shoulder-season travellers who can stay flexible |
In winter, nearby Keylong routinely drops below freezing; The Tribune has reported cold-spell lows in Keylong between roughly -7°C and -14°C. Even when the tunnel is open, fresh snow can close the approach road for a day or two, so keep your plans loose.
How to reach Sissu
You reach Sissu by road from Manali, about 40 km north through the Atal Tunnel; there is no airport or railway station in Lahaul itself. The Lahaul & Spiti district administration says the valley is accessed from Manali through Kullu district, and that the nearest railheads and airport all need onward travel by road.
- By air: The nearest airport, per the district administration, is Bhuntar (Kullu). Flights are limited and weather-dependent, so many travellers fly to Chandigarh instead and continue by road.
- By rail: The nearest railheads named by the district are Jogindernagar (a narrow-gauge line), Shimla and Chandigarh. From any of them you travel onward by bus or taxi via Manali.
- By road: From Manali, drive through the Atal Tunnel to the north portal at Sissu. HRTC buses and shared taxis run from Manali towards Keylong and Jispa and can drop you at Sissu; self-drive and private taxis are common.
| From | Distance | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Manali | About 40 km | Via Atal Tunnel; roughly 1–1.5 hours in good conditions |
| Atal Tunnel north portal | A few km | Sissu sits just beyond the north portal near Teling |
| Koksar | About 14 km | South-east, towards Gramphu/old Rohtang route |
| Shimla | About 330 km | District admin: ~14 hours via Atal Tunnel and Rohtang to Keylong |
Things to see and do in Sissu
The main sights in Sissu are the roadside waterfall, the willow-fringed lake, the orchards, and the long view towards the Gyephang peak. Everything is close together on the valley floor, so you can see the highlights in a half day and still have time to walk by the river.
| Spot | What it is | Time needed |
|---|---|---|
| Sissu waterfall | Tall fall across the Chandra, locally called Palden Lhamo dhar; freezes in winter | 30–45 min |
| Sissu (Dhankar) lake | Small lake fringed by willows, developed as a tourist spot with seating and food stalls | 1 hour |
| Gyephang peak view | Long view towards Gyephang Goh (about 5,870 m / 19,258 ft) | Viewpoint stop |
| Orchards and riverbank | Apple and poplar fields along the Chandra; easy walking | 1–2 hours |
Sissu waterfall
The Sissu waterfall drops down the cliff on the far side of the Chandra, opposite the village, where it is locally known as Palden Lhamo dhar. It is strongest in July and August when the snowmelt peaks, and in deep winter it freezes into a standing column of ice. You can see it from the highway without any trek.
Sissu lake
The Sissu lake, sometimes called Dhankar lake, is a small willow-fringed waterbody that has been developed as the village’s most popular stop, with seating, stalls and parking. It is a short, flat visit rather than a hike, which makes it suitable for families and older travellers.
Gyephang peak and Raja Ghepan
Towering east of the village is Gyephang Goh, a peak of about 5,870 m (19,258 ft) named after Lahaul’s guardian deity. According to local belief, Raja Ghepan (also written Ghepang or Lord Gyephang) is the valley’s protector, and the adjacent village of Shashin is tied to his worship. Treat this as living faith, not a tourist show: the shrine may be closed to outsiders, so ask locally and do not enter or photograph it without clear permission.
Chandra valley scenery and winter snow
Sissu’s wide valley floor gives an open view of the Chandra river and the surrounding ranges. In summer the fields are green and the air is clear; in winter the whole valley turns white, the waterfall freezes, and snow sits on the orchards. This mix of easy access and high-mountain setting is the main reason people now come.
A suggested short itinerary
Sissu works well as a day trip from Manali or as an overnight halt on the way deeper into Lahaul. A short, unhurried plan suits the altitude better than rushing.
- Day trip from Manali: Leave early, drive through the Atal Tunnel, stop at the north portal viewpoint, then spend the morning at the waterfall and lake. Walk the riverbank, have lunch at a Sissu stall or homestay, and return by evening.
- Overnight (2 days): Day 1 — reach Sissu by late morning, settle into a homestay or camp, visit the lake and waterfall, and let your body adjust to 3,120 m. Day 2 — drive onward to Koksar or towards Keylong, Tandi and Jispa, or return to Manali.
If you are continuing into Lahaul, read our Himachal Pradesh travel guide for the wider region and our Manali travel guide for the base you will most likely start from.
Where to stay
In Sissu you stay mainly in village homestays and seasonal camps, while nearby Keylong and Jispa have a wider choice of hotels and guesthouses. There are no large luxury hotels in Sissu itself, which keeps the feel low-key. The price bands below are indicative planning estimates for two people per night and should be reconfirmed when you book.
| Type | Where | Indicative ₹/night (two people) |
|---|---|---|
| Budget homestay / guesthouse | Sissu village, Koksar | ₹1,000–₹2,000 |
| Camps / mid-range | Sissu, Jispa | ₹2,000–₹4,500 |
| Comfortable hotels | Keylong, Jispa | ₹3,500–₹6,000 |
Book ahead for summer weekends and for any winter trip, when few properties stay open and heating matters. Many homestays in Sissu are family-run and seasonal, so confirm by phone that they are operating before you arrive.
Food to try
Food in Sissu is simple home-style cooking, with Lahauli and wider Himachali dishes alongside standard north-Indian fare. Expect warm, filling meals rather than elaborate restaurant menus.
- Chana madra (chickpeas slow-cooked in a yoghurt-and-spice gravy, a Himachali staple).
- Siddu (steamed stuffed wheat bread, usually served with ghee or dal).
- Thukpa and thenthuk (Tibetan-style noodle soups common across Lahaul).
- Momos (steamed dumplings) and hot butter or herbal tea, welcome at this altitude.
- Local apples in season, from the orchards around the village.
Budget breakdown
A simple two-day Sissu trip from Manali can be done on a modest budget if you use a homestay and shared transport. The figures below are indicative planning estimates per person for two days and one night, assuming two people sharing; they exclude your travel to Manali and should be reconfirmed before you go.
| Item | Budget trip | Comfortable trip |
|---|---|---|
| Stay (1 night, share) | ₹600–₹1,000 | ₹1,800–₹3,000 |
| Food (2 days) | ₹500–₹800 | ₹900–₹1,500 |
| Transport from Manali (share) | ₹500–₹900 | ₹1,500–₹2,500 (private taxi share) |
| Green tax / entry (per vehicle, split) | ₹50–₹200 | ₹200–₹300 |
| Approx. total | ₹1,650–₹2,900 | ₹4,400–₹7,300 |
Permits, fees and rules
Indian tourists do not need an Inner Line Permit to visit Sissu, because Lahaul is not a restricted area like parts of Spiti and Kinnaur; a Rohtang Pass permit is also not required if you travel to Lahaul through the Atal Tunnel. You should, however, plan for a green tax and follow the valley’s eco rules.
- Green tax: Press reports say Himachal Pradesh began collecting a green tax from tourist vehicles entering Lahaul at the Atal Tunnel on 10 September 2021, with a barrier at Sissu. Reported rates were about ₹50 for two-wheelers, ₹200 for cars, ₹300 for SUVs/MUVs and ₹500 for buses and trucks, with regular Lahaul vehicles exempt. Treat these figures as indicative and reconfirm at the barrier, as of October 2026.
- Vehicle registration: Reports mention an e-Aagman portal (eaagman.hp.gov.in) for registering vehicles entering the district; check whether it applies to your route before travel.
- Eco rules: Carry your waste out, avoid single-use plastic, and do not litter near the lake or river. The green tax itself was introduced after complaints of littering since the tunnel opened.
- Respect for faith: The Ghepan shrine and the Shashin area are places of worship; ask before photographing people, homes or the shrine.
Practical tips and safety
The two things to manage at Sissu are altitude and winter driving. At about 3,120 m the village is high enough that some visitors feel mild altitude effects, and the road, though tunnel-assisted, still runs through snow country.
- Altitude: Go easy on arrival, drink water and avoid alcohol the first evening. If you feel a persistent headache, nausea or breathlessness, descend towards Manali, where the air is thicker.
- Winter driving: In snow, use a vehicle with good tyres (ideally all-wheel drive or chains), start early, and stop before dark. Even with the tunnel open, the approach road can close briefly after fresh snow, so keep a buffer day.
- Cash and network: Carry cash; ATMs are scarce in Lahaul and UPI or card payments may fail with weak signal. Mobile network is patchy beyond the tunnel.
- Medical: The nearest larger hospital is the regional/district hospital at Keylong; for serious problems, the bigger facilities are back in the Kullu–Manali belt. Carry a basic first-aid kit and any personal medicines.
- Solo and women travellers: Lahaul is generally calm and the main stops are busy in season; still, tell someone your plan, prefer daytime travel, and book stays that confirm they are open.
- Packing: Summer needs layers and a warm jacket for nights; winter needs serious cold-weather gear, waterproof boots, gloves and sunglasses for snow glare.
Nearby places
Sissu sits in a cluster of Lahaul stops that are easy to combine on one trip. The table lists the closest, with a reason to go; distances are approximate and worth reconfirming locally.
| Place | Distance from Sissu | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Atal Tunnel north portal | A few km | The 9.02 km tunnel itself and its viewpoint |
| Koksar | About 14 km | Old Rohtang-route village, dhabas, Chandra bridge |
| Keylong | Onward towards the district HQ | District headquarters, market, monasteries, hospital |
| Tandi | Near Keylong | Chandra–Bhaga confluence; last fuel pump before Leh |
| Jispa | Beyond Keylong | Riverside camps on the Manali–Leh road |
Frequently asked questions
Where is Sissu located?
Sissu is a village in the Lahaul valley of Lahaul & Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh, on the right bank of the Chandra river at about 3,120 m (10,235 ft). It sits just north of the Atal Tunnel, roughly 40 km from Manali, which makes it one of the first and most accessible stops in Lahaul.
How do I reach Sissu from Manali?
You reach Sissu by road, driving about 40 km north from Manali through the 9.02 km Atal Tunnel, usually in one to one and a half hours. There is no airport or railway in Lahaul; the nearest airport is Bhuntar (Kullu) and the nearest railheads are Jogindernagar, Shimla and Chandigarh, all needing onward road travel.
Is Sissu open in winter?
Sissu is usually reachable in winter because the Atal Tunnel keeps the road open when the old Rohtang Pass route is snowbound. However, heavy snowfall can still close the approach road for short periods, and temperatures in nearby Keylong often fall well below freezing, so winter visits need warm gear and flexible plans.
Do I need a permit to visit Sissu?
No Inner Line Permit is needed for Sissu, as Lahaul is not a restricted area, and a Rohtang Pass permit is not required when you travel through the Atal Tunnel. Press reports say a green tax applies to tourist vehicles entering Lahaul (about ₹200 for a car), so carry cash and reconfirm current rules before you go.
What is the best time to visit Sissu?
The best time to visit Sissu is June to September for green valleys, mild days and the fullest waterfall. December to February is the choice for snow, with the waterfall frozen and the valley white, but it is cold and the road can be disrupted. Spring and autumn are quieter shoulder seasons.
What is there to see in Sissu?
Sissu’s main sights are its roadside waterfall across the Chandra river, the willow-fringed Sissu lake, apple and poplar orchards, and views of the Gyephang peak (about 5,870 m). All sit on the valley floor near the road, so you can cover the highlights in a half day without any trekking.
Last updated and sources
Sissu suits anyone who wants an easy first taste of Lahaul’s high valleys without a hard journey. Go in summer for green and water, or in winter for snow if you are confident with cold-weather travel.
Last updated: 21 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Border Roads Organisation and Government of India (PIB) material on the Atal Tunnel (length, inauguration date, portal altitudes, route savings); Lahaul & Spiti district administration, hplahaulspiti.nic.in (how to reach, nearest airport and railheads, road routes); India Infra Hub and Deccan Herald reports on the Lahaul green tax (September 2021); The Tribune reports on winter temperatures in Keylong; and Wikipedia’s Sissu and Atal Tunnel entries used to locate these primary figures (village altitude, Chandra river bank, Gyephang Goh height, Ghepan belief). Accessed September 2026.
