The Navlakha Temple, Ghumli is a large 12th-century Sun temple standing in ruins at the foot of the Barda hills in Devbhumi Dwarka district, Gujarat. It is one of Saurashtra’s oldest surviving stone temples, built by rulers of the Jethwa dynasty when Ghumli was a seat of regional power. Few travellers reach it, which is part of the appeal: you often have the carved plinth, octagonal pillars and fighting-elephant panels almost to yourself.
The Navlakha Temple at Ghumli, in Devbhumi Dwarka district of Gujarat, is a 12th-century Surya (Sun) temple built by Jethwa-era rulers and widely described as the oldest Sun temple in the state. It sits in ruins below the Barda hills, about 42 km from Porbandar, and entry is free.
Key takeaways
- The Navlakha Temple, Ghumli is a 12th-century Sun temple attributed to Jethwa-dynasty rulers, called the oldest Sun temple in Gujarat by Incredible India and other sources.
- Its east-facing plinth measures about 45.72 x 30.48 m, among the largest temple bases in Gujarat, per the figure Wikipedia cites from the ASI’s Archaeology in India (1950).
- The temple’s signature carving shows three elephants with entwined trunks; the main entrance arch, the Kirti Toran, is now lost.
- Ghumli lies in Bhanvad taluka, about 42-45 km from Porbandar and roughly 83-87 km from Jamnagar; the nearest town is Bhanvad (about 4 km).
- As of October 2026 the site is open sunrise to sunset with free entry, per the travel listing Trawell; reconfirm locally before visiting.
- October to March is the comfortable window; Saurashtra summers are hot and dry and the monsoon runs July to September.
About Ghumli and the Navlakha Temple
Ghumli is a village in Bhanvad taluka, Devbhumi Dwarka district, in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat, and the Navlakha Temple is its best-known monument. The village sits at the foothills of the Barda hills at roughly 21.88 N, 69.76 E. Because districts here were redrawn in 2013, older sources still place Ghumli in Jamnagar district; both names refer to the same village.
The temple’s name is usually explained by cost: local tradition says it was built for nine lakh (nav-lakh) coins, hence Navlakha. Treat that as a naming story rather than an accounting record. The same name attaches to other, unrelated temples in Gujarat, so always specify “Navlakha Temple, Ghumli” to avoid confusion with the Navlakha temple at Sejakpur or the Navlakha Kothar at Pavagadh.
History: Saindhava and Jethwa Ghumli
Ghumli was a capital of two medieval dynasties, which is why its ruins are so substantial. According to a study of ancient Gujarat towns cited by Wikipedia, the place appears in early copper plates under names such as Bhutambilika, later softening to Bhumli and then Ghumli, and it served as the capital of the Saindhava dynasty from about the mid-8th to the mid-10th century.
It later became a seat of the Jethwa rulers, under whom the Navlakha Temple is dated to the 12th century. Ghumli’s prominence ended in the early 14th century, when, after a Jadeja attack, the Jethwas shifted their capital and the town was largely destroyed. A popular local legend blames the fall on the curse of a sati; that is folklore, not documented history, and is best told as such. One Wikipedia source puts the temple in the 11th century rather than the 12th, so the exact date is not settled.
Architecture of the Navlakha Temple, Ghumli
The Navlakha Temple is a large, east-facing Sun temple built in the Maru-Gurjara idiom (often loosely called “Solanki style”). Wikipedia, citing the ASI’s Archaeology in India (1950), gives its plinth as about 45.72 x 30.48 m, one of the largest temple bases in Gujarat. The plan includes a sanctum (garbhagriha), a covered circumambulatory path (pradakshina), a large pillared hall and three entrance porches (shringar chowkis).
Look for the eight-sided (octagonal) pillars of the hall, the two-storeyed entrance niches, and wall images identified as Brahma-Savitri in the central niche, Shiva-Parvati on the west and Lakshmi-Narayan on the north. The temple’s trademark carving is a set of three elephants with entwined trunks, which both Incredible India and Trawell single out. The grand entrance arch, the Kirti Toran, has not survived. Much of the superstructure is gone, so what you see is a monumental base and hall rather than a complete shikhara.
For wider context on Gujarat’s temple-building traditions, see our Gujarat travel guide.
Best time to visit
October to March is the best time to visit Ghumli, when Saurashtra’s weather is dry and comfortable for walking the open, unshaded ruins. Summer (April to June) is hot and glaring with little shade at the site, and the monsoon (roughly July to September) brings rain but greens the Barda hills. The table below is seasonal planning guidance, not measured climate normals.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Winter | Nov-Feb | Cool, dry, clear; the most comfortable time for the ruins and hill walks. |
| Early summer | Mar-Apr | Warming up; still manageable if you start early and carry water. |
| Peak summer | May-Jun | Hot and dry with harsh sun and no shade at the site; avoid midday. |
| Monsoon | Jul-Sep | Rain and humidity; the Barda hills turn green, but paths can be slippery. |
How to reach Ghumli
Ghumli is reached by road, usually from Porbandar (about 42-45 km) or Bhanvad town (about 4 km); there is no railway station or airport at the village itself. There is no direct public transport to the temple gate, so most visitors come by taxi or private car, with some state and local buses running to Bhanvad.
By air: The nearest airport is Porbandar (PBD), but its scheduled service is limited and has changed repeatedly through 2026, so reconfirm flights directly with the airline. Jamnagar (about 97-100 km) and Rajkot usually have more reliable connections, and many travellers fly into Ahmedabad and drive across Saurashtra; see our Ahmedabad travel guide if you route that way.
By train: Porbandar is the nearest convenient railhead, with services from Ahmedabad and other Gujarat cities; from there continue by road. Verify current trains on IRCTC/NTES before booking.
By road: The village sits off the Porbandar-Bhanvad side of Saurashtra at the Barda foothills. Distances vary by source, so confirm the route on a map app.
| From | Distance | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bhanvad | ~4 km | Nearest town; closest base and bus point. |
| Porbandar | ~42-45 km | Nearest airport and rail; common day-trip start. |
| Jamnagar | ~83-87 km | Larger city with more flights/trains. |
| Dwarka | ~114 km | Single-source estimate; verify. |
Things to see at and around Ghumli
Besides the Navlakha Temple, Ghumli holds a cluster of medieval temples, stepwells and hill shrines within a short radius. The highlights below can be combined into a half-day or full-day visit.
| Site | What it is | Time needed |
|---|---|---|
| Navlakha Temple | 12th-century ruined Sun temple; the main monument. | 45-60 min |
| Ghumli Ganesh Temple | Small shrine just outside the Navlakha Temple, dated by local sources to around the 10th century. | 15-20 min |
| Vikia (Vikai) Vav | Large, old stepwell east of the temple, called one of Gujarat’s biggest; about 60 x 40.5 m per Wikipedia. | 20-30 min |
| Jetha Vav | Second stepwell near the Navlakha Temple. | 15 min |
| Ashapura Mata Temple | Hilltop shrine reached by about 700 steps; a climb with views. | 1-2 hr |
| Barda Hills | Wooded hills and wildlife sanctuary forming the backdrop; trekking terrain. | Half day+ |
Vindyavasini Temple and Trikamji Bapu Mandir are also listed among the village’s shrines. The Barda Hills Wildlife Sanctuary lies alongside; any trekking inside protected forest should be arranged through the Gujarat Forest Department rather than entered casually.
A suggested day plan
Ghumli works best as a focused half-day or day trip from Porbandar or a Saurashtra road route. A simple plan:
- Early morning: Leave Porbandar after breakfast; drive to Ghumli (about 1-1.5 hr).
- Mid-morning: Explore the Navlakha Temple and the adjacent Ghumli Ganesh Temple while the light is soft and the heat low.
- Late morning: Walk to Vikia Vav and Jetha Vav; carry water, as there is little shade.
- Midday: If you have energy, climb to the Ashapura Mata Temple (about 700 steps); otherwise return to Bhanvad for lunch.
- Afternoon: Drive back to Porbandar, or continue on your Saurashtra loop.
Where to stay
Ghumli village has very limited accommodation, so most visitors stay in Porbandar and day-trip to the site. Bhanvad, the nearest town, has basic lodges. The figures below are indicative planning estimates, not quoted tariffs, and should be reconfirmed when you book (as of October 2026).
- Budget: Simple lodges in Bhanvad or Porbandar, roughly ₹800-₹1,500 a night (indicative; reconfirm).
- Mid-range: Hotels in Porbandar, roughly ₹1,500-₹3,500 (indicative; reconfirm).
- Heritage/other: A palace-style property, sometimes listed as Navlakha Heritage, is associated with Ghumli; confirm whether it is operating and what it charges before relying on it.
Book ahead around Gujarati festival dates and winter weekends, when Saurashtra towns fill up.
Food to try
Food near Ghumli is simple Saurashtrian and Kathiyawadi vegetarian fare, mostly in Bhanvad and Porbandar rather than at the site. There are no reliable eateries at the temple, so carry water and snacks. Look for:
- Kathiyawadi thali (a platter of rotla, shaak, dal, kadhi and chaas) – the regional staple meal.
- Bajra no rotlo (thick pearl-millet flatbread) with white butter and jaggery.
- Chaas (spiced buttermilk), useful in the Saurashtra heat.
- Ganthiya (fried gram-flour snack), a common Gujarati tea-time bite.
Budget estimate
A Ghumli day trip is inexpensive because entry is free and the main cost is transport. The table is an indicative planning estimate for two people on a day trip from Porbandar; reconfirm all figures (as of October 2026).
| Item | Estimate (₹) | Assumptions |
|---|---|---|
| Site entry | 0 | Free entry reported at the temple. |
| Taxi (round trip) | 2,500-4,000 | Porbandar-Ghumli return with waiting; varies by operator. |
| Meals | 400-800 | Two simple Kathiyawadi meals plus snacks. |
| Water/incidentals | 100-200 | Bottled water, small buys. |
| Day total | ~3,000-5,000 | Excludes overnight stay and flights/trains. |
Permits, timings and rules
No special permit is required to visit the Navlakha Temple itself, and no Inner Line Permit or restricted-area clearance applies in this part of Gujarat. As of October 2026 the travel listing Trawell gives timings of 6 am-6 pm with free entry, and Incredible India notes the site is open sunrise to sunset; reconfirm on the ground, as the ruins are open and unstaffed.
The temple does not appear on the ASI’s published list of Monuments of National Importance in Gujarat (the “Navlakha” entries there are at Sejakpur and Pavagadh, which are different sites), and I could not confirm a formal protected-monument designation from an official source this session. Conservation work at Ghumli has been reported, but treat its protected status as unverified until you check with the state archaeology department. If you plan to walk into the Barda Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, sanctuary and forest rules apply and visits should be cleared with the Gujarat Forest Department. Dress modestly for the active shrines, and carry out all litter, as there are no facilities.
Practical tips
- Start early: The site is open and unshaded; morning light and cooler air make it far more pleasant.
- Carry essentials: Bring water, sun protection, snacks and cash, as there are no shops, cafes or reliable ATMs at the village.
- Connectivity and cash: Mobile network can be patchy; UPI may not work everywhere, so keep some cash from Porbandar or Bhanvad.
- Footwear: Wear sturdy shoes for uneven stone, stepwell edges and, if you attempt it, the Ashapura climb.
- Medical: The nearest well-equipped hospitals are in Porbandar or Jamnagar; Bhanvad has only basic facilities.
- Solo women: The site is quiet and remote; prefer daytime visits, travel with a known driver, and let someone know your plan.
- Driver: Hire a Porbandar taxi that knows the Ghumli road, and agree on waiting time in advance.
Nearby places
Ghumli pairs well with Saurashtra’s coast and hill sights. The table lists practical add-ons.
| Place | Distance | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Bhanvad | ~4 km | Nearest town for food, fuel and basic lodging. |
| Barda Hills Wildlife Sanctuary | Adjacent | Forested hills and trekking (arrange with Forest Dept). |
| Porbandar | ~42-45 km | Coastal town, Kirti Mandir, nearest airport and rail. |
| Dwarka | ~114 km | Major pilgrimage town (single-source distance; verify). |
For planning a wider Saurashtra or Gujarat circuit, start with our Gujarat travel guide.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Navlakha Temple, Ghumli?
The Navlakha Temple is in Ghumli village, Bhanvad taluka, Devbhumi Dwarka district, in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat. It stands at the foot of the Barda hills, about 42-45 km from Porbandar and roughly 4 km from Bhanvad town. Older records may list it under Jamnagar district because of a 2013 boundary change.
How old is the Navlakha Temple and who built it?
The Navlakha Temple at Ghumli is generally dated to the 12th century and attributed to rulers of the Jethwa dynasty, with one source suggesting the 11th century. Incredible India and other sources describe it as the oldest Sun temple in Gujarat. It is a Surya (Sun) temple built in the Maru-Gurjara, or so-called Solanki, style.
What is the entry fee and timing for the Navlakha Temple?
As of October 2026 the travel listing Trawell reports free entry and timings of 6 am to 6 pm, and Incredible India notes the site opens sunrise to sunset. The ruins are open and largely unstaffed, so reconfirm timings locally. No special permit is needed to visit the temple itself.
How do I reach Ghumli?
Reach Ghumli by road, usually a 42-45 km drive from Porbandar, which has the nearest airport and railway station; Bhanvad town is about 4 km away. Flights to Porbandar are limited, so many travellers use Jamnagar, Rajkot or Ahmedabad and drive. There is no direct public transport to the temple gate, so a taxi is easiest.
What else can I see near the Navlakha Temple?
Near the Navlakha Temple you can see the Ghumli Ganesh Temple just outside it, the large Vikia Vav and Jetha Vav stepwells to the east, and the hilltop Ashapura Mata Temple reached by about 700 steps. The Barda hills and their wildlife sanctuary form the backdrop and offer trekking arranged through the Forest Department.
Is the Navlakha Temple, Ghumli an ASI protected monument?
It is an important archaeological site, but the Ghumli temple does not appear on the ASI’s published list of Monuments of National Importance in Gujarat, where the “Navlakha” entries are different sites at Sejakpur and Pavagadh. Formal protected-monument status could not be confirmed from official sources this session, so verify with the state archaeology department.
Last updated and sources
Ghumli suits travellers who like quiet ruins and regional history over crowds and facilities; come between October and March, pair it with Porbandar or the Barda hills, and start early. Reconfirm transport and timings close to your trip.
Last updated: 30 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change – reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Incredible India – Ghumli (official); Wikipedia – Navlakha temple, Ghumli (citing ASI, Archaeology in India, 1950); Wikipedia – Ghumli; Wikipedia – List of Monuments of National Importance in Gujarat; Trawell – Ghumli timings and entry. Accessed September 2026.
