The Kheer Bhawani Temple at Tulmulla, in Ganderbal district of Jammu & Kashmir, is one of the most revered shrines of the Kashmiri Pandit community. Built over a sacred spring and dedicated to the goddess Ragnya Devi, it draws pilgrims from across the country each year, most of all for the Jyeshtha Ashtami mela when the quiet complex of old chinar trees fills with devotees.
Kheer Bhawani Temple is a Hindu shrine in Tulmulla village, Ganderbal district, about 25 km north-east of Srinagar, built over a sacred spring dedicated to the goddess Ragnya Devi. The spring is believed to change colour, and the annual Jyeshtha Ashtami mela draws thousands of pilgrims each June.
Key takeaways
- Kheer Bhawani Temple sits in Tulmulla village, Ganderbal district, roughly 25 km north-east of Srinagar at about 1,592 m elevation (Wikipedia, citing survey data).
- The temple is built over a sacred spring whose water is believed to change colour; a black shade is traditionally read as a bad omen (JKTDC; Incredible India).
- The main offering is kheer (a rice-and-milk pudding), from which the shrine takes its name; the presiding deity is Ragnya Devi, regarded as a form of Durga.
- The annual Kheer Bhawani mela falls on Jyeshtha Ashtami; in 2026 it was held on 22 June, drawing thousands of mainly Kashmiri Pandit devotees (ETV Bharat).
- The present temple was built under Maharaja Pratap Singh around 1912 and later renovated by Maharaja Hari Singh (JKTDC).
- Incredible India lists temple hours as 6 am–8 pm daily; reconfirm locally, as mela days follow special arrangements.
About the Kheer Bhawani Temple
The Kheer Bhawani Temple is a Hindu shrine in Tulmulla village, Ganderbal district, central Kashmir, dedicated to the goddess Ragnya Devi (also written Rajna or Maharagnya), whom devotees regard as a form of Durga. On first mention it helps to distinguish it: a second, smaller Kheer Bhawani shrine exists at Tikker in Kupwara, but the principal temple is the one at Tulmulla.
The shrine’s name comes from kheer, the rice-and-milk pudding that is its main offering, according to the Jammu & Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation (JKTDC). The spelling of the place varies between Tulmulla, Tulmul and Tula Mula across sources.
The spring and sacred site are old. Wikipedia notes that Kalhana’s twelfth-century chronicle Rajatarangini refers to the sacred spring of Tula Mula. The present pond and temple, however, were built much later.
| Location | Tulmulla village, Ganderbal district, Jammu & Kashmir |
|---|---|
| Distance from Srinagar | About 25 km north-east (Wikipedia); road routes run roughly 28–34 km |
| Elevation | About 1,592 m (5,223 ft) (Wikipedia) |
| Deity | Ragnya Devi / Mata Kheer Bhawani, a form of Durga |
| Built | Present temple under Maharaja Pratap Singh, around 1912 (JKTDC) |
| Main festival | Kheer Bhawani mela on Jyeshtha Ashtami (May–June) |
| Hours | 6 am–8 pm daily, per Incredible India (reconfirm locally) |
The sacred spring and its colours
The temple is built over a sacred spring whose water is believed to change colour, a feature at the heart of the shrine’s reputation. JKTDC and Incredible India describe the spring as hexagonal in form; Wikipedia instead calls it heptagonal, so the exact geometry is reported differently across sources.
The water is said to pass through shades of red, pink, orange, green, blue and white, most of which carry no particular meaning. A black tinge, by contrast, is traditionally read as a warning of hard times to come. This is belief, not established science; the cause of any colour change has not been scientifically confirmed.
The oldest documented observation comes from Walter Lawrence, the British land settlement commissioner, who recorded a violet tinge to the water in 1886 (Wikipedia, citing Lawrence’s 1895 account). Some accounts say the water darkened around the 1990 Kashmiri Pandit exodus; treat this as tradition reported in later writing rather than as a measured record.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Kheer Bhawani Temple is spring to early autumn, roughly April to October, when Kashmir is mild and roads are clear. The single biggest day is the Jyeshtha Ashtami mela in late May or June, which is also the busiest; pilgrims who want the ritual atmosphere plan around it, while those who prefer a quiet darshan avoid it.
Winters are cold. Incredible India’s listing gives January temperatures in the Srinagar area of roughly -6°C to 12°C and July around 14°C to 34°C, so a mid-summer visit is the most comfortable. These are indicative ranges from that listing; check a current forecast before you travel.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Apr–May | Mild days, blossom; crowds build towards the mela |
| Summer | Jun–Aug | Warmest and most comfortable; the mela falls here; peak pilgrim numbers |
| Autumn | Sep–Oct | Cool, clear, chinar leaves turning; quieter |
| Winter | Nov–Mar | Cold, occasional snow; fewest visitors |
How to reach Kheer Bhawani Temple
You reach the Kheer Bhawani Temple by road from Srinagar, the regional gateway for air and rail. There is no railway or airport at Ganderbal itself, so journeys route through Srinagar and then out to Tulmulla village.
- By air: The nearest airport is Srinagar International Airport (Sheikh ul-Alam, code SXR), with flights to Delhi and other metros. Note that one Incredible India listing names Jammu as the nearest airport, which is inconsistent with the temple’s location near Srinagar; Srinagar is far closer.
- By rail: The nearest railhead is in the Srinagar area (Nowgam / Srinagar station). Ganderbal has no station of its own.
- By road: Taxis and cabs run from Srinagar and the airport to Tulmulla via the Srinagar–Ganderbal road; allow roughly one to one-and-a-half hours depending on traffic. On mela days the J&K State Road Transport Corporation (JKSRTC) has in past years run special buses from Srinagar pick-up points to the shrine (Kashmir Life, 2017); confirm each year with JKSRTC.
| From | Mode | Approx. distance / time |
|---|---|---|
| Srinagar city centre | Taxi / bus | ~25–30 km; about 1 hour |
| Srinagar airport (SXR) | Taxi | ~30–34 km; about 1–1.5 hours |
| Ganderbal town | Taxi / auto | Short local hop within the district |
The Jyeshtha Ashtami mela
The Kheer Bhawani mela is the shrine’s largest gathering, held each year on Jyeshtha Ashtami, the eighth day of the bright fortnight in the Hindu month of Jyeshtha. Because the date follows the lunar calendar it shifts each year; in 2026 the mela fell on Monday 22 June (ETV Bharat).
Thousands of devotees attend, most of them Kashmiri Pandits, many travelling from outside the valley. Wikipedia describes it as one of the largest Hindu gatherings in the region after the Amarnath pilgrimage. Devotees fast, offer kheer, milk and flowers, light lamps around the spring and spend hours in prayer.
The event is organised with the district administration. For 2026, ETV Bharat reported that Deputy Commissioner Ganderbal Jatin Kishore oversaw transport, drinking water, sanitation, healthcare, help desks and facilitation centres, with police deployed along the route, and that Lieutenant Governor Manoj Sinha visited the shrine. Parallel observances are held at other Ragnya Devi shrines, including Tikker (Kupwara), Logripora Aishmuqam (Anantnag) and sites in Kulgam.
What to see and do
The main thing to do at Tulmulla is a calm darshan at the spring and marble shrine, followed by time under the complex’s old chinar trees. The site is compact and contemplative rather than a sightseeing circuit, so most visitors spend one to two hours here.
| Experience | Notes | Time needed |
|---|---|---|
| The sacred spring | Walk the marble surround; observe the water’s colour | 20–30 min |
| Ragnya Devi shrine | Marble temple holding the idol; offer kheer / prayers | 20–30 min |
| Chinar grove | Sit on the lawns, as pilgrims traditionally do | Open-ended |
| Mela day (if timed) | Rituals, lamps, community gathering | Half day+ |
A simple itinerary works well as a day trip: a morning drive from Srinagar, a mid-morning darshan at Tulmulla, and an afternoon returning via Hazratbal and the Dal Lake area or heading on towards Manasbal Lake in Ganderbal.
Where to stay
Most visitors stay in Srinagar and travel out for the day, since Tulmulla is a short drive away and Srinagar has the widest choice of rooms. JKTDC’s own listing for the shrine mentions on-site deluxe and super-deluxe huts (1, 2 and 4 BHK) and a Yatri Niwas dormitory for pilgrims; confirm availability directly with JKTDC, especially around the mela.
The bands below are planning estimates only and vary sharply with season and the mela. Reconfirm live rates before booking.
- Budget: guesthouses and dormitories — indicative ₹800–₹1,800 per night.
- Mid-range: Srinagar hotels and houseboats — indicative ₹2,500–₹5,000 per night.
- Premium: deluxe houseboats and upscale hotels — indicative ₹6,000+ per night.
Food and prasad
At the temple itself the defining food is kheer (a rice pudding cooked in milk and sugar), distributed and offered as prasad; the shrine is named for it. Many devotees keep a simple vegetarian or fasting diet on mela day.
For meals, you will eat in Srinagar and Ganderbal rather than at the shrine. Kashmiri cuisine to try there includes rogan josh (lamb in a red gravy), yakhni (a yoghurt-based mutton curry), haak (local greens) and noon chai (pink salt tea). These are regional dishes available in the area, not temple offerings; vegetarians will find haak, rajma and rice widely.
Budget for the trip
A day trip from Srinagar to Kheer Bhawani is inexpensive, since the main costs are a taxi and meals rather than tickets. The table gives a per-person planning estimate for a one-day visit, assuming you are already in Srinagar and share a taxi.
| Item | Indicative cost |
|---|---|
| Shared taxi (round trip, split) | ₹400–₹900 |
| Meals and tea | ₹200–₹500 |
| Offerings / donation | Your choice |
| Temple entry | No ticket fee |
| Rough total (day trip) | ₹600–₹1,400 |
Assumptions: travel shared, no overnight stay, prices as bands. A full private taxi for the day will cost more; mela-period rates rise.
Timings, permits and etiquette
No special travel permit is needed to visit Kheer Bhawani: Srinagar and Ganderbal are open to Indian and foreign visitors without an Inner Line Permit, unlike some other border districts. There is no ticketed entry fee to the temple.
Incredible India lists temple hours as 6 am to 8 pm daily; treat this as indicative and reconfirm on the ground, as timings and access can tighten on mela days and for security. Dress modestly, remove footwear at the shrine, and follow priests’ instructions near the spring. Confirm locally whether photography is allowed around the inner shrine before taking pictures.
Practical tips
- Connectivity and cash: Carry some cash for taxis, offerings and small shops; do not rely only on cards or UPI near the shrine. Mobile coverage is generally available in the Srinagar–Ganderbal belt but can be patchy.
- Health: The nearest full hospital facilities are in Srinagar; Ganderbal has district health services. On mela days the administration sets up medical help desks at the site (ETV Bharat, 2026).
- Timing your visit: Go early to avoid afternoon crowds and traffic, especially in summer.
- Weather: Pack a light layer even in summer for cool mornings; warm clothing is essential outside June–September.
- Respect: This is a living pilgrimage site of deep meaning to the Kashmiri Pandit community; keep noise low and photograph people only with consent.
Nearby places
Tulmulla pairs naturally with Srinagar’s lakes and gardens and with sights in Ganderbal district. Distances below are approximate road distances for planning; reconfirm with a map app.
| Place | Approx. distance | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Hazratbal Shrine, Srinagar | ~20–25 km | Revered Muslim shrine on Dal Lake’s shore |
| Manasbal Lake, Ganderbal | ~15–25 km | Quiet lake known for lotus and birdlife |
| Dal Lake & Mughal gardens, Srinagar | ~25–30 km | Shikara rides, Nishat and Shalimar Bagh |
| Sonamarg, Ganderbal | ~80 km | Alpine meadow and gateway to Thajiwas glacier |
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Kheer Bhawani Temple located?
The Kheer Bhawani Temple is in Tulmulla village, Ganderbal district, Jammu & Kashmir, about 25 km north-east of Srinagar. It stands over a sacred spring at roughly 1,592 m elevation and is reached by road from Srinagar, which is the nearest point for air and rail travel.
Why is it called Kheer Bhawani?
The temple is named after kheer, a rice-and-milk pudding that is the main offering made to the goddess, according to JKTDC. The presiding deity is Ragnya Devi, regarded as a form of Durga, so the shrine is also called the Ragnya Devi temple or Mata Kheer Bhawani.
Does the spring really change colour?
Devotees believe the spring’s water changes colour, through shades such as pink, green and blue, with a black tinge seen as a bad omen. This is a matter of faith and observation, not confirmed science. The earliest documented note is Walter Lawrence’s record of a violet tinge in 1886.
When is the Kheer Bhawani mela held?
The annual mela falls on Jyeshtha Ashtami, in late May or June, with the exact date shifting each year by the lunar calendar. In 2026 it was held on 22 June, drawing thousands of mainly Kashmiri Pandit devotees to Tulmulla, according to ETV Bharat. Confirm the current year’s date before planning.
Do I need a permit to visit?
No special permit is required to visit Kheer Bhawani. Srinagar and Ganderbal district are open to Indian and foreign visitors without an Inner Line Permit, and there is no entry ticket for the temple. Dress modestly, remove footwear at the shrine, and reconfirm photography rules locally.
How much time do I need at the temple?
A darshan at the spring and shrine typically takes one to two hours, so Kheer Bhawani works well as a half-day trip from Srinagar. On the Jyeshtha Ashtami mela day, allow longer, as rituals, crowds and travel time all increase substantially.
Last updated and sources
Kheer Bhawani suits pilgrims and travellers who want a calm, meaningful stop near Srinagar; go in summer for comfort, or on Jyeshtha Ashtami for the full mela atmosphere.
Last updated: 30 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Jammu & Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation (JKTDC), Kheer Bhawani listing; Incredible India (Ministry of Tourism), Kheer Bhawani Temple; Wikipedia: Kheer Bhawani Temple (used to locate primary references incl. Lawrence 1895 and Kalhana’s Rajatarangini); ETV Bharat, Kheer Bhawani Mela 2026; Drishti IAS, Kheer Bhawani Mela 2026; Kashmir Life, JKSRTC mela transport (2017). Accessed October 2026.
