The Sonkhaliya Florican Grassland, in Ajmer district, Rajasthan, is one of India’s most important breeding areas for the endangered lesser florican (kharmor), a small, secretive bustard that males advertise with a leaping monsoon display. The landscape, often spelled Shokaliya or Shokhaliya, is a mix of semi-arid grassland, scrub and traditional croplands rather than a gated national park. This guide explains what the place is, when the display happens, how to reach it responsibly and what the official record actually says.
Sonkhaliya is a grassland-and-cropland landscape around Shokaliya village, southeast of Ajmer city in Rajasthan, that shelters breeding lesser floricans during the southwest monsoon. It is a Lesser Florican Closed Area and Important Bird Area, not a ticketed sanctuary, so visits are low-key, seasonal and best done with ethical restraint.
Key takeaways
- Sonkhaliya (Shokaliya), in Ajmer district, Rajasthan, is a Lesser Florican Closed Area and Important Bird Area, not a fenced national park or safari zone.
- The lesser florican (Sypheotides indicus) is listed as Critically Endangered by the IUCN, reclassified in 2021, and is India’s smallest bustard.
- The best time to see the male’s leaping display is the southwest monsoon, mainly July and August; researchers study it from July to September, per a 2020 BNHS study reported by Mongabay.
- Rajasthan notified a Lesser Florican conservation reserve near Shokaliya on 10 April 2023, covering grassland reported at 893–931 hectares across villages including Arwar, Goyla and Kheeriya.
- There is no ticketed gate, hotel or safari at the grassland itself; most visitors base in Ajmer, Kishangarh or Pushkar, roughly 40–45 km away, and go out at dawn with a local guide.
- Many floricans here breed in farmers’ traditional crops, so quiet, respectful viewing from field edges matters more than at any formal park.
About Sonkhaliya and the lesser florican
Sonkhaliya is a grassland-and-farmland landscape around Shokaliya village in Ajmer district, Rajasthan, roughly southeast of Ajmer city. You will see it spelled several ways in records and the press, including Shokaliya, Shokhaliya and Shonkaliya; they all refer to the same place. Do not confuse it with unrelated same-sounding villages elsewhere in Rajasthan.
The star species is the lesser florican (Sypheotides indicus), known locally as the kharmor. According to the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS), it is endemic to the Indian subcontinent and is the smallest of India’s three resident bustards, alongside the great Indian bustard and the Bengal florican. BirdLife International reports the IUCN Red List reclassified it as Critically Endangered in 2021.
Crucially for visitors, Sonkhaliya is not a national park with a gate, ticket window or jeep safari. It is a working agro-pastoral landscape that also carries a Lesser Florican Closed Area notification and is listed as an Important Bird Area (IBA). The quick facts below summarise what is verified.
| Location | Around Shokaliya village, Ajmer district, Rajasthan |
|---|---|
| Approx. central coordinates | 26.30° N, 74.77° E (per Key Biodiversity Areas factsheet, 2004 baseline) |
| Protected status | Lesser Florican Closed Area; Important Bird Area; conservation reserve notified 10 April 2023 |
| Flagship species | Lesser florican (kharmor), Sypheotides indicus, IUCN Critically Endangered |
| Habitat | Semi-arid grassland, scrub and traditional monsoon croplands |
| Best season | Southwest monsoon, mainly July–August |
| Entry | No ticketed gate; open landscape, visit with a local guide |
Why the Sonkhaliya Florican Grassland matters
Sonkhaliya matters because it is one of the last reliable breeding strongholds for a bird that has nearly vanished from India’s grasslands. The Nature inFocus field report (2022) describes Shokaliya as “one of the strongholds for breeding Lesser Floricans,” and BNHS confirms it has resumed long-term surveys in the Shokaliya region with Rajasthan Forest Department support.
The reason to come is behaviour, not scenery. During the southwest monsoon, the male performs an aerial courtship display: it leaps vertically from tall grass or crops, flutters, and drops back down, repeating this many times to attract females and hold territory. Nature inFocus reports that at the peak of the season a male may make “around 400 to 500 jumps” in a session; other accounts describe “dozens, sometimes hundreds” of leaps a day. Females are rarely seen because of their secretive habits.
The conservation picture is sobering and worth knowing before you go. Nature inFocus reported in 2022 that “hardly 730 mature Lesser Floricans remain in the country,” and that the national population fell by almost 80 percent between 2000 and 2018. A 2017 all-India survey counted about 340 displaying males, as reported by Mongabay. In Rajasthan, a 2020 BNHS study found 34 males and nine females within a 266 sq km core area, after searching some 3,700 sq km.
Sonkhaliya once also held the great Indian bustard. Nature inFocus and Mongabay report that roughly 55 were present in the 1990s, falling to about four by 2016, with no confirmed sightings since. That decline is a warning the florican’s advocates are trying not to repeat.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Sonkhaliya is the southwest monsoon, mainly July and August, when males are actively displaying. According to a 2020 BNHS study reported by Mongabay, researchers study the display chiefly from July to September; little is known of the bird’s whereabouts from October to June, when breeding crops are harvested and the birds move to non-breeding areas. Outside the monsoon, sightings are unlikely.
Mornings are best. Displays are most frequent soon after dawn and again before dusk, so plan to be at the fields very early. The season depends entirely on rain: arrivals are strongly influenced by the monsoon, so timing shifts year to year. Check recent conditions before committing to dates.
| Period | Conditions | Chance of display |
|---|---|---|
| July–August | Peak monsoon; tall crops and grass; green landscape | Best — primary breeding and display months |
| September | Late monsoon; still studied by researchers | Possible, tapering as the season ends |
| October | Crops harvested; birds disperse | Low |
| November–June | Dry season; birds largely absent | Very low |
How to reach Sonkhaliya
You reach Sonkhaliya by basing in Ajmer, Kishangarh or Pushkar and driving out to the grassland around Shokaliya village, roughly 40–45 km southeast of Ajmer city. There is no public transport to the fields themselves and no visitor gate, so a car with a local driver or guide is the practical option. Village-directory listings place Shokaliya about 42 km from Ajmer; treat road distances as approximate and confirm the exact meeting point with a local contact.
By air: The nearest airport is Kishangarh (Ajmer) Airport (KQH), near Kishangarh on NH-48; Jaipur International Airport (JAI) is the larger, better-connected hub, roughly 130–150 km away by road (indicative — reconfirm). Flight availability at Kishangarh changes often, so check current schedules before relying on it.
By rail: Ajmer Junction is the main railhead, with wide connections across Rajasthan and to Delhi, Jaipur and beyond; Kishangarh station is another option. From the station you will still need road transport to the grassland. Reconfirm trains on official railway channels close to travel.
By road: Ajmer sits on NH-48 (the Delhi–Jaipur–Ajmer corridor), so self-drive and taxi access is straightforward to the city; the final stretch to the fields is on smaller rural roads best navigated with a guide.
| From | Approx. distance by road | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Ajmer city | ~40–45 km | Nearest base; main railhead at Ajmer Junction |
| Kishangarh | ~40–55 km | Near Kishangarh (Ajmer) Airport (KQH) |
| Pushkar | ~55–60 km | Popular overnight base near Ajmer |
| Jaipur | ~175–190 km | Via Ajmer; largest nearby airport (JAI) |
What you can see and ethical viewing
What you come to see at Sonkhaliya is the lesser florican’s monsoon display, watched quietly from the edges of fields and grassland. Because many birds breed inside farmers’ standing crops, there is no viewing tower, hide or marked trail; sightings depend on patience, a good local guide and respect for the land you are standing beside.
Set expectations honestly. This is a wild, declining bird in a working landscape, so a sighting is never guaranteed, and the female is especially elusive. The payoff, when it comes, is a genuinely wild spectacle: a small bustard springing above the crop line against monsoon clouds. The table below sets out what to look for and how.
| What | Where / how | Best time |
|---|---|---|
| Male lesser florican leaping display | From field and grassland edges, scanning tall crops | Just after dawn; again before dusk |
| Grassland and farmland birdlife | Larks, pipits, harriers and other open-country species | Morning |
| Traditional monsoon crops | Jowar, moong, urad and similar; the bird’s cover | Throughout the monsoon |
| Local conservation story | Talk with guides about community-led efforts | Any time |
Ethical viewing is not optional here. Nature inFocus lists “unethical photography” and egg trampling from farming among the pressures on the species. Keep to field margins, never enter standing crops, keep voices and vehicles quiet, do not use drones or playback to draw birds out, and give any displaying male a wide berth so it is not forced off territory.
A suggested short itinerary
A florican visit is best built as an add-on to an Ajmer–Pushkar trip during the monsoon, with one or two early mornings at the grassland. Keep it flexible around weather.
- Day 1: Arrive and settle in Ajmer, Kishangarh or Pushkar. Confirm the next morning’s plan and meeting point with your local guide. Early night.
- Day 2: Pre-dawn drive to the Shokaliya grassland; spend the cool early hours scanning from field edges for displaying males. Return for a late breakfast; rest through the midday heat. Optional second visit before dusk.
- Day 3: Optional repeat morning if the first was quiet (sightings are weather-dependent), then explore Ajmer or Pushkar before departing.
Where to stay
There is no hotel at the grassland, so stay in Ajmer, Kishangarh or Pushkar and drive out at dawn. All three have a full range from budget rooms to mid-range hotels, with heritage and resort-style options around Pushkar in particular. Book ahead in the monsoon-to-winter travel window and around Pushkar’s fair dates, when rooms fill fast.
| Type | Indicative price band | Where / notes |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | ₹800–₹1,800 | Guesthouses and basic hotels in Ajmer and Pushkar |
| Mid-range | ₹2,500–₹5,000 | Comfortable hotels in Ajmer/Kishangarh; many homestays near Pushkar |
| Upper / heritage | ₹6,000–₹12,000+ | Resorts and heritage properties around Pushkar |
These are planning estimates only; actual tariffs vary by season, property and booking channel, so reconfirm before you travel.
Food to try
Eat where you stay — Ajmer, Kishangarh and Pushkar — since the grassland has no eateries. This is classic Rajasthani-Marwari territory, so expect hearty vegetarian thalis and local staples. Try these on your trip:
- Dal baati churma (baked wheat dumplings with lentils and a sweet crushed-wheat mix) — the signature Rajasthani plate.
- Gatte ki sabzi (gram-flour dumplings in a spiced yoghurt gravy).
- Ker sangri (a dry dish of desert berries and beans) — a true arid-land specialty.
- Kadhi (yoghurt and gram-flour curry) with steamed rice.
- Malpua (sweet fried pancake) — a Pushkar favourite.
Pushkar is a vegetarian and alcohol-free town by tradition; plan meals accordingly if you are based there.
Budget breakdown
A florican visit is cheap on paper — there is no entry fee — but your real cost is the vehicle and a guide for very early starts. The table gives a rough per-person daily estimate for two people sharing, excluding long-distance travel to Ajmer.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Stay (per person, sharing) | ₹500–₹900 | ₹1,300–₹2,500 |
| Car + driver for dawn trips (split) | ₹900–₹1,500 | ₹1,200–₹2,000 |
| Local guide (split) | ₹400–₹800 | ₹600–₹1,200 |
| Food | ₹300–₹500 | ₹600–₹1,000 |
| Approx. per day | ₹2,100–₹3,700 | ₹3,700–₹6,700 |
Assumptions: monsoon travel, two people sharing a room and vehicle, no entry fee at the grassland, and long-distance transport to Ajmer booked separately. Guide and vehicle rates are the main variable; agree them in advance.
Permits, rules and responsible birdwatching
No special tourist permit, Inner Line Permit or ticket is required to visit the Sonkhaliya Florican Grassland, because it is an open agro-pastoral landscape rather than a ticketed sanctuary. That said, it carries a Lesser Florican Closed Area notification and a 2023 conservation reserve, so treat it as a protected, sensitive area and follow the forest department’s guidance. If any area access restriction is in force during the breeding season, respect it and ask locally.
The real “rules” here are ethical ones, because you are watching a Critically Endangered bird nesting in private fields:
- Stay on field edges and tracks; never walk into standing crops or grassland where birds may nest.
- Do not use drones, flash or call playback; do not chase or flush a displaying male.
- Keep groups small and quiet, and keep vehicles on existing roads.
- Take all litter out; carry no plastic into the fields.
- Ask permission before entering or photographing on private farmland, and respect the farmers who share their land with the birds.
Practical tips
A few practicalities make the difference between a frustrating and a rewarding monsoon morning:
- Guide first: arrange a knowledgeable local guide in advance; they know current display sites and the etiquette for approaching farmland.
- Start early: be in position by first light; displays taper as the morning warms.
- Optics: bring binoculars and a long lens — birds are watched from a distance, not up close.
- Monsoon kit: rain cover, closed shoes for muddy field edges, insect repellent and drinking water.
- Cash and connectivity: carry some cash for guides and small vendors; mobile network and UPI work in the towns but can be patchy in the fields.
- Health and safety: the nearest hospitals are in Ajmer and Kishangarh; there is no altitude concern here, as this is plains terrain. Solo women travellers generally find Ajmer–Pushkar manageable, but a trusted local guide is advisable for the pre-dawn rural drives.
Nearby places
Sonkhaliya pairs naturally with Ajmer and Pushkar, and can anchor a wider Rajasthan grassland-and-heritage trip. The table lists easy additions; distances are approximate.
| Place | Approx. distance from Ajmer | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Ajmer | Base town | Ajmer Sharif Dargah, Ana Sagar lake, Taragarh fort |
| Pushkar | ~15 km | Lakeside temple town; Brahma temple; famous annual fair |
| Kishangarh | ~25–30 km | Marble town and the Kishangarh school of miniature painting |
| Jodhpur | ~200 km | Blue city, Mewar–Marwar forts — see our Jodhpur travel guide |
If you are building a longer loop through western Rajasthan, the Jodhpur travel guide helps you plan the fort-and-desert leg after the grasslands.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Sonkhaliya Florican Grassland?
The Sonkhaliya Florican Grassland is in Ajmer district, Rajasthan, around Shokaliya village, roughly 40–45 km southeast of Ajmer city. It is an open grassland-and-cropland landscape, also spelled Shokaliya or Shokhaliya, and is best reached by road from Ajmer, Kishangarh or Pushkar with a local guide.
What is the best time to see the lesser florican at Sonkhaliya?
The best time is the southwest monsoon, mainly July and August, when male lesser floricans perform their leaping courtship display. According to a 2020 BNHS study reported by Mongabay, the display is studied from July to September; by October the crops are harvested and the birds disperse, so sightings outside the monsoon are unlikely.
Do I need a permit or ticket to visit Sonkhaliya?
No special tourist permit or entry ticket is required, because Sonkhaliya is an open agro-pastoral landscape, not a ticketed sanctuary. It does carry a Lesser Florican Closed Area notification and a 2023 conservation reserve, so treat it as a protected, sensitive area, follow forest department guidance and respect any breeding-season access restrictions.
Why is the lesser florican endangered?
The lesser florican is listed as Critically Endangered by the IUCN (reclassified in 2021, per BirdLife International) mainly because India’s grasslands have been lost to agriculture and degradation. BirdLife cites overgrazing, invasive plants, hunting, egg-collecting and collisions with powerlines; Nature inFocus reported the national population fell nearly 80 percent between 2000 and 2018.
How many lesser floricans are left, and are they at Sonkhaliya?
Estimates are low and uncertain. Nature inFocus reported in 2022 that “hardly 730 mature Lesser Floricans remain in the country,” and a 2017 all-India survey counted about 340 displaying males (Mongabay). A 2020 BNHS study found 34 males and nine females within a 266 sq km core area around Shokaliya, making it a key stronghold.
Is Sonkhaliya a national park or sanctuary?
No. Sonkhaliya is not a national park or wildlife sanctuary; it is a Lesser Florican Closed Area and Important Bird Area in a working farming landscape. In April 2023 Rajasthan notified a conservation reserve near Shokaliya — reported at 893–931 hectares across villages including Arwar, Goyla and Kheeriya — which BNHS welcomed.
Last updated and sources
Go if you are a patient birdwatcher who wants to witness a genuinely rare grassland spectacle and support community-led conservation; go during the monsoon, chiefly July and August, with a local guide and a light footprint.
Last updated: 30 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Bombay Natural History Society — Lesser Florican; BNHS press note on the Lesser Florican conservation reserve, Rajasthan (10–11 April 2023); Mongabay India (2020) on the lesser florican in Rajasthan and the 2017 survey; Nature inFocus (2022), “The Last Stronghold of the Lesser Florican”; BirdLife International (2023), “One to watch: Lesser Florican”; Key Biodiversity Areas factsheet — Sonkhaliya Closed Area; RoundGlass Sustain on the lesser florican at Shokhaliya. Accessed September 2026.
