This Karni Mata temple guide covers the famous “Rat Temple” at Deshnoke, in Bikaner district, Rajasthan, where thousands of revered black rats live inside a marble shrine and share the floor with pilgrims. It is one of India’s most unusual acts of worship, and also a working temple with early-morning aartis, two annual fairs and a steady stream of Charan families who treat the rats as kin. Here is how to visit respectfully, what to expect underfoot, and how to fit Deshnoke into a wider Bikaner trip.
Karni Mata Temple is a Hindu shrine in Deshnoke, about 30 km south of Bikaner in Rajasthan, dedicated to the 14th-century folk deity Karni Mata. It is best known for roughly 25,000 sacred rats, called kabas, that live freely in the complex. Entry is free and darshan runs 4 am to 10 pm daily.
Key takeaways
- Karni Mata Temple sits in Deshnoke, 30 km south of Bikaner city on NH-89; Deshnoke railway station is about 0.5 km from the temple gate.
- Incredible India describes “over 25,000 rats” (locally kabas) living in the temple; Wikipedia puts the figure around 20,000. Spotting a rare white rat is considered especially auspicious.
- Darshan timings are 4 am to 10 pm daily and there is no entry fee, as of October 2026; the Mangla Aarti is held soon after opening.
- The marble facade and silver doors were built in the early 20th century by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner; the shrine traces to around 1530, per Wikipedia.
- Visitors must remove footwear and walk barefoot across the marble; rats run across feet, and stepping on one is taboo.
- Two Karni Mata fairs fall during Navratri — Chaitra (March–April) and Ashwin (September–October) — the busiest and most atmospheric time to visit.
Karni Mata temple guide: the shrine and the kabas
Karni Mata Temple, in Deshnoke town of Bikaner district, Rajasthan, is a marble shrine where black rats are worshipped as sacred and move freely among devotees. The rats are the reason most travellers come, but the site is first a living centre of faith for the Charan community.
Karni Mata is a 14th-century folk deity of the Charan clan, revered across western Rajasthan and worshipped by Rajput rulers as a protector goddess. According to local belief, when her son (or, in other tellings, a clansman) died, Karni Mata asked Yama, the god of death, to return him; the souls of her clan were instead destined to be reborn as rats in this temple until they return as Charans. This is legend, held with deep sincerity, rather than history.
The rats are called kabas. Incredible India states that “over 25,000 rats” eat, sleep and roam the premises, while the English Wikipedia entry puts the number closer to 20,000 — either way, you will see them in large numbers, clustered around milk bowls and running along the walls and floor. A handful of white rats are considered manifestations of Karni Mata and her kin, and sighting one is treated as a special blessing. The present marble front with its solid silver doors was built in the early 20th century by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner, in Rajput style; Wikipedia dates the original shrine to around 1530. Later silver gates and marble carvings were donated in 1999.
Best time to visit Deshnoke
The best time to visit Karni Mata Temple is October to March, when Bikaner’s desert climate is cool and dry and day trips from the city are comfortable. Summer (April to June) is harsh, with temperatures often crossing 40°C.
If you want atmosphere over quiet, time your trip with one of the two Navratri fairs, when the town fills with pilgrims and the temple stays busy late. For a calmer darshan, arrive on a weekday morning soon after the 4 am opening.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Winter | October–March | Cool, dry days; the easiest and most popular window; overlaps the Ashwin fair in Sept–Oct. |
| Summer | April–June | Very hot desert heat, often above 40°C; visit at dawn, carry water, avoid midday. |
| Monsoon | July–September | Light, unreliable rain; heat eases a little; the Chaitra fair has passed by now. |
How to reach Deshnoke and the temple
The simplest way to reach Karni Mata Temple is from Bikaner, roughly 30 km north, by road or rail. Deshnoke railway station is about 0.5 km from the temple, so trains halting there drop you almost at the gate.
- By train: Deshnoke station lies on the line south of Bikaner Junction and is served by passenger, express and superfast trains; it has two platforms. A short walk connects the station to the temple. Confirm current trains and timings on IRCTC/NTES before you travel.
- By road: Buses and shared or private taxis run frequently from Bikaner to Deshnoke along NH-89, taking roughly 45 minutes to an hour. A return taxi with waiting time is the easiest option for a half-day trip.
- By air: Bikaner’s Nal airport is about 42 km from Deshnoke; Jaipur and Delhi are the larger airports with wider connectivity, after which you continue by train or road.
| From | Distance | Typical mode |
|---|---|---|
| Bikaner city / Junction | ~30 km | Taxi, bus or train (45–60 min by road) |
| Nal (Bikaner) airport | ~42 km | Taxi |
| Jaipur | ~300 km | Train or road, then onward to Bikaner |
Darshan, aartis and the Karni Mata fairs
Darshan at Karni Mata Temple is open 4 am to 10 pm every day and is free, as of October 2026. The chief priest opens the sanctum early and performs the Mangla Aarti soon after, with an evening aarti around dusk; these are the two best windows to witness ritual rather than only sightseeing.
You enter through the marble gateway into a courtyard and inner sanctum where the kabas are most concentrated around feeding bowls of milk and grain. Devotees offer milk, sweets and prasad to the rats; some share the food afterwards as a blessing. Treat offerings and the deity’s image with the same respect you would at any temple.
Twice a year, during Navratri, Deshnoke holds the Karni Mata fair: once in Chaitra (around March–April) and once in Ashwin (around September–October), each running through the first ten days of the bright fortnight. These fairs draw large crowds of pilgrims and are the liveliest, though most crowded, time to come. Exact dates shift with the Hindu calendar, so check the year’s listing on the Rajasthan government’s Utsav portal.
| Fair | Month (approx.) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Chaitra Navratri fair | March–April | Spring Navratri; ten days of the bright fortnight; heavy footfall. |
| Ashwin Navratri fair | September–October | Autumn Navratri; overlaps the start of the cool season. |
Hygiene and etiquette inside the temple
You must remove your footwear before entering and walk barefoot across the marble, which means rats run underfoot — this is the single practical thing first-time visitors should prepare for. It is considered deeply disrespectful to step on or harm a kaba, so move slowly and watch where you place your feet.
Some visitors wear thick socks for a barefoot floor shared with animals; shoes are not allowed inside. The floor is washed regularly but is still a shared space, so:
- Shuffle rather than stride, especially near feeding bowls where rats gather densely.
- Carry hand sanitiser and use it after darshan; wash feet when you leave.
- Do not pick up or chase the rats; watch quietly. Many pilgrims consider it auspicious if a rat runs over the feet.
- Follow photography norms posted at the temple and avoid flash near the sanctum; dress modestly as at any shrine.
Travellers with a weak immune system, open wounds or a strong aversion to rodents should weigh the visit carefully; you can view much of the courtyard from the edges without wading into the thick of the rats.
Nearby places in and around Bikaner
Deshnoke pairs naturally with Bikaner, a desert city of forts, havelis and camel country roughly 30 km away. Most visitors base in Bikaner and treat the temple as a half-day trip.
- Junagarh Fort, Bikaner: A 16th-century fort with richly painted palaces, open roughly 10 am to 4:30 pm. Entry is around ₹50 for Indians and ₹300 for foreigners (indicative, reconfirm at the counter), with a camera fee.
- National Research Centre on Camel, Bikaner: An ICAR institute established in 1984, about 8 km from the city, where you can see different camel breeds, take a short camel ride and try camel-milk products; it keeps afternoon visiting hours.
- Bikaner old city: Rampuria Havelis and the lanes around the walled town, good for an evening walk and bhujia shopping.
If you are planning a wider Rajasthan circuit, Bikaner connects well towards the painted towns covered in our Shekhawati travel guide, making it easy to combine Deshnoke with the frescoed havelis further east.
| Place | Distance from Deshnoke | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Junagarh Fort | ~30 km (in Bikaner) | Well-preserved fort palaces and courtyards. |
| National Research Centre on Camel | ~35 km (near Bikaner) | Camel breeds, rides and camel-milk tasting. |
| Bikaner old city / Rampuria Havelis | ~30 km | Carved sandstone mansions and bazaars. |
Where to stay
Stay in Bikaner rather than Deshnoke itself; the city has the widest range of hotels and heritage stays and is a short drive from the temple. Deshnoke has only basic lodging for pilgrims.
The ranges below are indicative planning estimates for a double room in the cool season and should be reconfirmed at the time of booking (as of October 2026):
- Budget (₹800–₹1,800): Simple guesthouses and lodges near Bikaner Junction and the old city.
- Mid-range (₹2,000–₹5,000): Comfortable hotels and smaller heritage havelis with air-conditioning.
- Heritage and luxury (₹6,000 and up): Converted palace and haveli hotels; book ahead in winter and during the Navratri fairs, when rooms fill fast.
RTDC (Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation) also runs a government hotel in Bikaner, which can be a dependable mid-budget fallback; check availability on the RTDC site.
Food to try
Bikaner is a serious food town, best known for Bikaneri bhujia (a crisp, spicy gram-flour snack) and a long tradition of sweets. Eat in the city before or after your Deshnoke trip.
- Bikaneri bhujia: The city’s signature deep-fried savoury snack, sold fresh in the old-town shops.
- Kachori and samosa: Spiced, fried pastries eaten as breakfast or a tea-time snack.
- Rasgulla and ghewar: Bikaner’s famous sweets; ghewar (a disc-shaped festive sweet) is especially popular around festivals.
- Ker sangri: A classic Rajasthani dry vegetable made from desert beans and berries, served with bajra (pearl-millet) roti.
At the temple, any prasad is vegetarian; avoid carrying meat or eggs into the complex.
Budget for the trip
A Deshnoke visit is cheap because temple entry is free; most of your spend is transport from Bikaner and anything you buy at the fort or for food. The table below is a planning estimate per person for a day trip from Bikaner — reconfirm current fares and fees before you go.
| Item | Estimate (₹) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Return transport Bikaner–Deshnoke | 300–800 | Shared by taxi; cheaper by bus or train. |
| Karni Mata Temple entry | 0 | Free; small optional offerings extra. |
| Junagarh Fort entry (Indian) | ~50 | Plus camera fee; indicative, reconfirm. |
| Food and water | 200–500 | Snacks, a meal in Bikaner. |
| Approximate total | 550–1,350 | Excludes the Bikaner hotel. |
Assumptions: a day trip based in Bikaner, local transport, one fort visit and meals; it does not include accommodation or a guide.
Practical tips, permits and rules
No permit is needed to visit Karni Mata Temple or Bikaner — it is open domestic travel with no inner-line requirement. The main rules are the temple’s own: barefoot entry, respect for the rats, and modest dress.
- Timing: Come early for the Mangla Aarti and cooler air, or after dusk for the evening aarti; midday in summer is brutal.
- Money: Carry some cash for small offerings, parking and snacks; UPI is widely accepted in Bikaner but patchy at tiny stalls. ATMs are in Bikaner, not reliably in Deshnoke.
- Health: Use hand sanitiser after the barefoot darshan and wash your feet afterwards; the nearest full hospitals are in Bikaner.
- Photography: Follow signage inside; be discreet and avoid flash near the sanctum. No drone flying at the temple.
- Solo women: Deshnoke is a busy pilgrimage site and generally comfortable in daylight; take the usual care, keep to the crowded temple area and travel back to Bikaner before late night.
- Packing: Thick socks for the barefoot floor, hand sanitiser, water, a hat and sunscreen in the warmer months, and a light layer for early mornings in winter.
Frequently asked questions
Why are there rats in Karni Mata Temple?
According to Charan belief, Karni Mata asked Yama, the god of death, to spare her clan, and their souls were destined to be reborn as rats in this Deshnoke temple before returning as humans. The roughly 25,000 rats, called kabas, are therefore revered as family and protected, not pests. This is faith-based legend, not documented history.
What are the Karni Mata Temple timings and entry fee?
Karni Mata Temple is open 4 am to 10 pm every day and entry is free, as of October 2026. The chief priest performs the Mangla Aarti soon after the early opening, with an evening aarti around dusk. There is no ticket; you only spend on optional offerings. Confirm timings during the Navratri fairs, when the temple stays busy late.
How do I reach Karni Mata Temple from Bikaner?
Karni Mata Temple is about 30 km south of Bikaner on NH-89, reachable in 45 to 60 minutes by taxi or bus. Trains from Bikaner Junction also halt at Deshnoke station, roughly 0.5 km from the temple gate. A return taxi with waiting time is easiest for a half-day trip; buses are the cheapest option.
Is it safe and hygienic to walk barefoot among the rats?
You must remove footwear and walk barefoot across the marble, so rats will run near and over your feet. The floor is washed regularly, but carry hand sanitiser, wear thick socks if you prefer, and wash your feet afterwards. People with open wounds or weak immunity should be cautious and can watch from the courtyard edges.
When are the Karni Mata fairs held?
Deshnoke holds two Karni Mata fairs during Navratri: one in Chaitra around March–April and one in Ashwin around September–October, each over the first ten days of the bright fortnight. They are the most crowded and atmospheric time to visit. Exact dates follow the Hindu calendar, so check the year’s listing on the Rajasthan Utsav portal.
What else can I see near Deshnoke?
Base yourself in Bikaner, about 30 km away, where the main sights are Junagarh Fort, the Rampuria Havelis in the old city, and the ICAR National Research Centre on Camel established in 1984. Bikaner also connects towards the painted towns of the Shekhawati region for a longer Rajasthan trip.
Last updated and sources
Go if you want to see one of India’s most singular living traditions up close; the cool months from October to March are the most comfortable, and the Navratri fairs are the most vivid. Treat the temple and its kabas with care and you will have an unusual, genuinely memorable darshan.
Last updated: 8 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Incredible India — Karni Mata Mandir; Wikipedia — Karni Mata Temple (used to find coordinates and construction dates); Rajasthan Utsav portal — Karni Mata Fair, Deshnok; ICAR — National Research Centre on Camel, Bikaner; and Bikaner visitor listings for Junagarh Fort and Deshnoke transport (fort fees and taxi/train details are indicative — reconfirm at the counter and on IRCTC/NTES). Accessed October 2026.
