Mandawa havelis: a Shekhawati travel guide

The Mandawa havelis are the painted merchant mansions that have earned this small Shekhawati town its nickname, the “open-air art gallery”. Mandawa is a town in Jhunjhunu district, Rajasthan, in the semi-arid Shekhawati region of the north-east, and its lanes are lined with 18th–19th-century houses whose walls, gateways and courtyards are covered in frescoes. This guide covers the haveli circuit, the fort-turned-hotel, the condition of the art, and how to plan a visit.

Mandawa is a heritage town in Jhunjhunu district, Rajasthan, about 168 km from Jaipur, famous for its painted havelis (ornate merchant mansions). Built by Marwari trading families in the 18th and 19th centuries, these frescoed houses give Shekhawati its “open-air art gallery” reputation; the best season to walk the lanes is October to March.

About Mandawa and the Shekhawati region

Mandawa is a town in Jhunjhunu district, Rajasthan, in the Shekhawati region, set at about 316 m (1,037 ft) and recorded with a population of 23,335 in the 2011 census, according to Wikipedia. It lies about 29 km from Jhunjhunu city and grew up around a fort built to guard a trading outpost on the old caravan routes, per the Shekhawati Tourism and Jhunjhunu district portals cited there.

Shekhawati is the tract covering Jhunjhunu, Sikar and Churu districts, and it is best known for its concentration of painted havelis. A haveli is a traditional courtyard mansion; here the walls were covered with frescoes, which is why the region, and Mandawa in particular, is often called an “open-air art gallery”. The town is compact and walkable, and a focused day lets you see the main houses on foot.

For a wider view of the painted towns around Mandawa, see our Shekhawati travel guide, which maps the fuller circuit through Nawalgarh, Dundlod and Fatehpur.

Why Marwari merchants built the havelis

The havelis were built by Marwari merchant families who grew rich on Shekhawati’s trade and later wanted to show that wealth at home. According to Outlook Traveller, families such as the Goenkas, Poddars, Ruias and Birlas made their fortunes as the region sat on caravan routes, and the custom was that “whoever made it big would come back and build four things—a haveli, baoli (stepwell), temple and dharamshala (pilgrims’ rest-house)”. Many of these families later moved to Calcutta and Bombay as sea trade and the railways shifted commerce away from the desert.

The frescoes were a way of decorating these courtyard mansions and signalling status. The painters worked largely in the lime-plaster tradition, and over generations the subjects shifted from gods and local rulers to the new world the merchants were encountering: British officers, trains, motor cars, telephones and aeroplanes. That mix of mythology and early-modern novelty is what makes the Mandawa havelis unusual among India’s painted buildings. Our guide to the havelis of India sets the Shekhawati style alongside the mansions of Gujarat, Chettinad and old Delhi.

The walkable Mandawa havelis circuit

The main Mandawa havelis sit within a short walk of each other along and off the Fatehpur–Jhunjhunu road, so the circuit is best done on foot. The named houses below are the ones most travellers come for; a few are museums or ticketed, several are private and lived-in, and one now houses a bank. A local map or guide helps, because the lanes are not well signed.

• Binsidhar Newatia Haveli (also spelt Bansidhar Nevatia): a 1920s house on the north side of the Fatehpur–Jhunjhunu road that houses a State Bank branch. It is famous for early-modern frescoes; Outlook Traveller records that it “shows the Wright brothers’ maiden flight and a European making a telephone call”, plus a tug-of-war between a strongman and a motor car driven by an Englishman.
• Murmuria Haveli: dated by Lonely Planet to the 1930s, with a courtyard frieze of a train and a railway crossing, and a well-known panel of Nehru on horseback holding the Indian flag.
• Goenka Double Haveli: a two-wing house owned by the Goenka family—the southern Vishwanath Goenka and northern Tarkeshwar Goenka wings—with monumental paintings of elephants and horses on the facade, per Lonely Planet.
• Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli and the Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka Haveli: more of the Goenka cluster; the Dayaram Dedraj house has a composite painting that reads as either Indra on an elephant or Shiva on Nandi, depending on the angle.
• Jhunjhunwala Haveli: another richly painted merchant house on the circuit, its rooms and courtyard carrying the mythological and decorative panels typical of the town.
• Thakurji temple, opposite the Goenka Double and Murmuria havelis: its murals include soldiers being fired from the mouths of cannons, read as a reference to the 1857 uprising.

Common fresco subjects across these houses include Hindu gods, kings and queens, royal weddings, British officers, trains and elephants, as the travel and heritage sources consistently describe. Spend time on the gateways and the inner courtyards, where the finest work usually survives.

Mandawa Castle and the fort

Mandawa Castle is the fort built by Thakur Nawal Singh in the mid-18th century, now the town’s best-known heritage hotel. Sources date the fort to 1755–1756; Wikipedia records that Thakur Nawal Singh, then ruler of Nawalgarh and Mandawa, built it to protect the trading outpost, and a town grew around it. The castle carries frescoes of its own and the painted, antique-furnished rooms typical of the region.

The fort opened to guests as a heritage hotel, Castle Mandawa, in 1980, according to Outlook India. Ownership is reported two ways: the short Wikipedia entry on Mandawa Fort states it is run as a hotel by the Rajasthan government tourism department, while several travel sources say descendants of the Singh family run it as a private heritage hotel. The family-run account is the better supported of the two, so treat the government-run claim with caution and confirm before booking (as of October 2026). Even if you do not stay, the exterior and the approach are worth a look on the walking circuit.

Condition and conservation of the frescoes

Many of the Mandawa and Shekhawati frescoes are fading and flaking, and conservationists attribute the decline to decades of neglect. The Better India quotes a conservation architect describing the painted havelis as deteriorating, with the frescoes breaking down; other reports note cracking walls, fading colours, collapsing roofs and decaying woodwork. Because the paintings sit on lime plaster and many houses stand empty, weathering and poor repairs have taken a visible toll.

A key reason is ownership. Most havelis are privately held and are not individually protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, so upkeep depends on families who often live elsewhere. There are efforts under way—the Shekhawati Project has run annual conservation workshops since 2016, and groups such as the Centre for Advancement of Traditional Building Technique and Skills work on restoration—but skilled artisans are scarce and the work is costly. Visiting responsibly, and paying the small fees where asked, helps support the houses that are maintained.

Mandawa on film

Mandawa is a regular Bollywood filming location, which has added to its fame. According to press reports including Gulf News, parts of the town stood in for Pakistan in Bajrangi Bhaijaan (2015), and the “Tharki Chokro” song from PK (2014), with its car sequence, was shot here. The town’s havelis and lanes have also appeared in Paheli, Jab We Met and Mirziya, among others.

Location scouts quoted in the same reports point to the town’s intact period streetscape, low production cost and the absence of crowds as reasons filmmakers keep returning. If a scene feels familiar as you walk, it may well have been a backdrop.

Best time to visit

The best time to visit the Mandawa havelis is October to March, when the desert climate is comfortable for walking the lanes. Shekhawati summers, from April to June, are very hot and dry, and midday light is harsh for looking at frescoes; the monsoon from July to September brings some relief but little rain. Aim for mornings and late afternoons for the softest light on the painted walls.

How to reach Mandawa

The most common way to reach Mandawa is by road from Jaipur, about 168 km and roughly 3.5–4 hours, or from Delhi, about 250 km and 5–6 hours. Mandawa has no airport or major station of its own, so every route ends with a road leg. Many travellers combine it with Nawalgarh and Fatehpur on a Shekhawati loop.

• By air: Jaipur International Airport is the nearest major airport, about 170 km away, followed by a road transfer.
• By rail: The nearest railhead is Jhunjhunu, about 29–30 km away; Mukundgarh (about 12 km) and Nawalgarh are closer halts on some services. Train services change, so check current trains and timings on IRCTC/NTES before booking.
• By road: From Jaipur, drive north via Sikar and the Shekhawati towns; from Delhi, approach via Jhajjar/Narnaul and Jhunjhunu. Buses and shared taxis also run from Jaipur and Jhunjhunu.

Entry, fees and photography

There is no single ticket for the whole town; some Mandawa havelis charge a small, indicative entry fee while others are private and free to view only from the street. Travel sources report that one combined ticket covers the Murmuria and the Goenka havelis, but figures vary and none is an official, published rate, so treat any amount as indicative and reconfirm on arrival (as of October 2026). Because most houses are private property, caretakers can and do refuse access or photography.

• Carry cash in small notes; UPI and card acceptance at individual havelis can be patchy.
• Ask before photographing interiors or lived-in courtyards; some caretakers charge a camera fee or decline.
• Do not touch the frescoes or lean on painted walls; the plaster is fragile.
• Hiring a local guide for a couple of hours makes the circuit easier to follow and supports upkeep.

Where to stay

Mandawa’s signature stays are its heritage hotels, led by Castle Mandawa and several converted havelis, with budget guesthouses also available in and around town. Staying in a painted haveli is part of the experience here, and rooms fill up in the October–March peak, so book ahead. The bands below are planning estimates, not quotes.

These are bands only; actual rates swing with season, weddings and festivals, so confirm before you travel.

Food to try

Mandawa eats like the rest of Shekhawati and Marwar, with hearty vegetarian Rajasthani food built for a dry climate. Most heritage hotels serve a thali, and small eateries in town cover the staples.

• Dal baati churma (baked wheat dough balls with lentils and a sweet crumble) — the regional signature.
• Gatte ki sabzi (gram-flour dumplings in a yoghurt-based curry).
• Ker sangri (a dried desert bean-and-berry preparation).
• Bajre ki roti (pearl-millet flatbread) with white butter and jaggery.
• Ghevar and malpua (syrup-soaked sweets), where available.

Budget breakdown

A two-day trip to Mandawa is moderately priced, with cost driven mainly by transport and your choice of stay. The table is a planning estimate for two people over one night, assuming a hired car from Jaipur and a mid-range haveli room; fuel, fees and tariffs vary, so treat the total as a band (as of October 2026).

Nearby places

Mandawa works best as part of a Shekhawati loop, with several painted towns and Bikaner within easy reach. The table lists the usual combinations; most sit within about 50 km, so a two- or three-day circuit is common.

Practical tips and etiquette

Treat Mandawa as a slow walking town and remember that many havelis are still homes. A little courtesy goes a long way, and it protects fragile art.

• Respect private, lived-in havelis: ask before entering or photographing, and accept a “no” gracefully.
• Connectivity: mobile network is generally fine; carry cash, as small havelis and shops may not take cards or UPI reliably.
• Health: the nearest larger hospitals are in Jhunjhunu; carry personal medicines and sun protection.
• Solo and women travellers: the town is small and walkable; standard daytime precautions apply, and a local guide can help with the lanes.
• Packing: sun hat, water and comfortable shoes for warm months; a warm layer for cold winter mornings.
• Leave no trace: do not touch frescoes, climb walls or litter near the houses and temples.

Frequently asked questions

Where are the Mandawa havelis and which district are they in?

The Mandawa havelis are in Mandawa town, Jhunjhunu district, Rajasthan, in the Shekhawati region of the state’s north-east. The town is about 168 km from Jaipur and roughly 250 km from Delhi by road. The painted mansions stand along and off the Fatehpur–Jhunjhunu road, within a short, walkable circuit in the town centre.

Why is Mandawa called an open-air art gallery?

Mandawa is called the “open-air art gallery” because its 18th–19th-century havelis are covered in frescoes on their walls, gateways and courtyards, visible along the public lanes. According to Wikipedia and Outlook Traveller, Marwari merchant families painted these mansions with gods, royalty, British officers, trains, cars and aeroplanes, turning the whole town into a walk-through display of wall art.

Is there an entry fee for the Mandawa havelis?

Some Mandawa havelis charge a small, indicative entry fee while others are private and viewed only from the street; there is no single town ticket. Travel sources note a combined ticket for the Murmuria and Goenka havelis, but amounts vary and none is officially published, so treat any figure as indicative and carry cash to reconfirm on site (as of October 2026).

What is the Binsidhar Newatia haveli famous for?

The Binsidhar Newatia haveli, a 1920s house on the Fatehpur–Jhunjhunu road, is famous for early-modern frescoes. Outlook Traveller records that it shows the Wright brothers’ maiden flight and a European making a telephone call, plus a strongman in a tug-of-war with a motor car. The building now houses a State Bank branch, and the facade is the draw.

Is Mandawa Castle a hotel, and who runs it?

Yes. Mandawa Castle, the fort built by Thakur Nawal Singh in the mid-18th century, opened as a heritage hotel in 1980, per Outlook India. Reports differ on ownership: most travel sources say descendants of the Singh family run it privately, while a short Wikipedia entry says the state tourism department does. The family-run account is better supported; confirm before booking.

How do I reach Mandawa from Jaipur or Delhi?

From Jaipur, drive north about 168 km via Sikar, roughly 3.5–4 hours; from Delhi, about 250 km via Jhunjhunu, roughly 5–6 hours. Mandawa has no airport or major station, so every route ends on the road. The nearest railhead is Jhunjhunu, about 29–30 km away, and Jaipur International is the nearest airport, about 170 km.

Last updated and sources

Go to Mandawa if you want to walk among painted merchant mansions and read a century of social change off the walls; the best window is the cool, dry stretch from October to March. Give it a full day, or stay a night to catch the lanes in soft morning light.

Last updated: 17 October 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: Wikipedia summaries of Mandawa and Mandawa Fort (citing Shekhawati Tourism on tourism.rajasthan.gov.in and the Jhunjhunu district portal); Outlook Traveller on Shekhawati frescoes and Mandawa’s havelis and castle; Outlook India on Castle Mandawa (1980 opening); Lonely Planet points-of-interest entries for the Murmuria and Goenka havelis; The Better India and Hyperallergic on fresco condition and conservation; and Gulf News on Mandawa as a film location. Fees, tariffs and some distances are indicative and could not be verified against an official published rate. Accessed October 2026.