Roopkund trek: the skeleton-lake route guide

The Roopkund trek is a high-altitude Himalayan walk in Chamoli district, Uttarakhand, that ends at a small glacial lake famous for the hundreds of human skeletons found along its shore. It climbs through oak forest and the wide meadows of Ali Bugyal and Bedni Bugyal, past the last camp at Bhagwabasa, to a lake that the 2019 ancient-DNA study places at over 5,000 metres. It is beautiful and demanding in equal measure, and it needs real respect for altitude.

Roopkund is a glacial lake in Uttarakhand’s Chamoli district, reached on a week-long trek from the road-head village of Lohajung. It is best known as the “skeleton lake” and sits above 5,000 metres, so acute mountain sickness is the main risk to plan for.

About Roopkund and quick facts

Roopkund lies below the ridge of Junargali, in the shadow of the twin peaks of Trishul and Nanda Ghunti. It is a shallow lake, frozen for much of the year, and small enough to walk around in a few minutes. The draw is not its size but its setting and its story.

The trek starts at Lohajung, a hamlet on a saddle at roughly 2,300 metres (about 7,600 feet, an indicative figure). From there the trail rises through Didna, the meadows of Ali and Bedni Bugyal, Ghora Lotani and Bhagwabasa before the final climb to the lake. Most itineraries run 6 to 8 days on foot, plus travel days.

On the altitude of the lake itself, sources differ. The 2019 peer-reviewed study in Nature Communications describes Roopkund as sitting “at over 5,000 meters above sea level,” and other references give 5,029 m (16,499 ft). Many trek operators list the lake nearer 4,800 m (about 15,750 ft) and the Junargali ridge just above it; treat those operator figures as indicative. Either way, you sleep and walk high enough for altitude illness to be a genuine concern.

The skeleton lake: what the science says

For decades the skeletons at Roopkund were explained by a single story: one group of people caught in a sudden, deadly hailstorm. The peer-reviewed evidence no longer supports that.

According to the 2019 Nature Communications study by Harney and colleagues, genome-wide ancient DNA was recovered from 38 individuals. They fell into three genetically distinct groups: 23 people with ancestry within the range of present-day South Asians, 14 with ancestry typical of the eastern Mediterranean, and one with Southeast Asian-related ancestry. Radiocarbon dating placed the South Asian group at around 800 CE and the others at around 1800 CE. The authors conclude these remains “were not deposited simultaneously,” separated by roughly a thousand years, which refutes the idea of one catastrophic event. The study is worth reading in full on the open-access NCBI/PMC record of the paper.

How the Mediterranean group came to die at a remote Himalayan lake around 1800 CE remains unexplained by genetics alone. That part is still an open question, not a settled history. Whatever you have read about a single doomed pilgrim caravan is legend, not established fact. According to local belief, the lake is linked to the goddess Nanda Devi and the Nanda Devi Raj Jat pilgrimage, and that tradition is best treated as living folklore rather than a cause of death.

Current access, permits and rules

This is the part to reconfirm before you commit money, because it changed recently. In August 2018 the Uttarakhand High Court banned overnight camping across the state’s high-altitude bugyals (alpine meadows) to protect them from tourism damage. Because the Roopkund route cannot avoid camping in Ali and Bedni Bugyal, the trek was effectively off-limits for years.

According to the Garhwal Post, the Supreme Court set aside the blanket overnight-camping prohibition on 20 July 2026, replacing it with a regulated framework. Other safeguards were kept: no permanent structures on the meadows, no commercial grazing, and waste-management rules. On that basis several established operators have listed Roopkund again for the 2026 season. Because the ruling is very recent, confirm the live position with the Chamoli/Uttarakhand Forest Department or a registered operator before booking (as of September 2026).

• Forest permit: a forest-department permit is mandatory; registered operators arrange it. Independent, unregistered trekking is generally not permitted on this route.
• Guides: going with a registered operator or licensed guide is the norm and, in practice, the only compliant way to do the full trek.
• Waste and eco rules: carry out all waste; single-use plastic is discouraged or barred; do not light open fires in the meadows.
• The skeletal remains: the human remains at Roopkund are of archaeological value. Do not touch, move or remove bones. Some reports suggest access right up to the lake edge can be regulated or limited by late-lying snow; I could not confirm a standing rule that bars reaching the lake, so verify this locally before you travel.

Best time for the Roopkund trek

There are two windows. Late spring (May to mid-June) gives firm snow near the top and green lower meadows. Post-monsoon autumn (mid-September to October) brings clear, cool days and, usually, snow-free upper camps. The monsoon (July-August) and deep winter (November-April) are best avoided.

Snow can appear near Kalu Vinayak, Bhagwabasa and the lake in any month, so pack for cold even in summer.

How to reach the base at Lohajung

Lohajung is the road-head. Plan a full day of travel from the nearest railhead or airport; the mountain roads are slow.

For trains to Kathgodam, the New Delhi-Kathgodam Shatabdi Express (12040 down / 12039 up) is the fastest daily option, and the Ranikhet Express (15013/15014) also serves Kathgodam daily; check live running and fares on IRCTC/NTES before you rely on any train. From Kathgodam, shared jeeps and buses run through Almora and the Garhwal hills to Dewal and Lohajung.

The route, campsites and distances

The classic loop climbs via Didna and the Ali-Bedni meadows and returns via Wan, so you rarely retrace steps. Distances below are indicative planning estimates from operator itineraries; the exact figures vary by route and year, so reconfirm.

The full on-foot distance over the loop is commonly given as roughly 53-60 km. The summit morning from Bhagwabasa to the lake and back is the hardest day: an early, cold, steep push over snow or scree, then a long descent.

Suggested day-by-day itinerary

A typical schedule, with a built-in acclimatisation rhythm. Adjust to your operator and the snow line.

• Day 0: Reach Kathgodam by train; overnight or early start.
• Day 1: Drive Kathgodam to Lohajung (~210 km, 9-10 hr). Rest, hydrate.
• Day 2: Trek Lohajung to Didna (~8-10 km). Forest and river crossing.
• Day 3: Didna to Ali/Bedni Bugyal (~10 km). First big meadow day.
• Day 4: Bedni to Ghora Lotani/Patar Nachauni (~5 km). Short, for acclimatisation.
• Day 5: To Bhagwabasa (~6 km) via Kalu Vinayak. Cold, exposed camp.
• Day 6: Pre-dawn summit push to Roopkund and back, then descend to Bedni (long day, ~13-15 km).
• Day 7: Descend to Lohajung via Wan village (~10-12 km).
• Day 8: Drive back to Kathgodam.

If you feel unwell at Bhagwabasa, skipping the summit day is the right call, not a failure. The lake will still be there next season.

Altitude and safety: taking AMS seriously

This is the section that matters most. Roopkund takes you above 5,000 metres, and acute mountain sickness (AMS) can affect anyone regardless of fitness. According to the US CDC’s guidance on altitude illness, any unacclimatised traveller sleeping at 2,450 m (8,000 ft) or higher is at risk, and headache with nausea, dizziness, fatigue or loss of appetite is the typical picture, usually appearing 2-12 hours after arrival.

Two conditions can kill. HAPE (high-altitude pulmonary oedema) shows as breathlessness at rest, a wet cough and chest congestion. HACE (high-altitude cerebral oedema) shows as confusion, clumsiness (ataxia) and drowsiness, “similar to alcohol intoxication” in the CDC’s words. Both are medical emergencies that demand immediate descent.

The CDC and Wilderness Medical Society give clear rules: above about 3,000 m, raise your sleeping altitude by no more than 500 m per day and add a rest night for every 1,000 m gained; never ascend to sleep higher while you have AMS symptoms; and descend if symptoms get worse despite rest. Acetazolamide can speed acclimatisation and reduce AMS, but it is a prescription drug: discuss it with a doctor before the trip, not on the mountain. There is no phone signal or hospital at the high camps, so the treatment for serious illness is to go down, fast, with help.

Where to stay and what to eat

On the trek you sleep in tents provided by your operator; there are no hotels above Lohajung. In and around Lohajung and Wan you will find basic guesthouses and homestays. Bigger, more comfortable options cluster in the towns you pass through on the drive, such as Almora and Kausani.

• Budget: Lohajung/Wan homestays and guesthouses, roughly ₹800-₹1,500 per room per night (indicative planning estimate; reconfirm).
• Mid-range: hotels in Almora/Kausani, roughly ₹2,000-₹4,500 per night (indicative).
• On-trek: tented camps, dining tents and dry toilets arranged by the operator; usually included in the package.

Food on the trek is simple, warm and vegetarian, cooked by the trek crew: dal (lentils), rice, roti (flatbread), sabzi (cooked vegetables), khichdi (rice-and-lentil porridge) and plenty of hot tea and soup. In the Kumaon-Garhwal foothills, try aloo ke gutke (spiced sautéed potatoes), bhatt ki churkani (a black-soybean curry) and bal mithai (a brown-fudge sweet) on your travel days. Eat well and drink far more water than feels normal.

Budget breakdown

Costs vary widely by operator, group size and whether you take a train or fly. The table below is a per-person planning estimate for a Kathgodam-to-Kathgodam trip of about 8 days.

Assumptions: shared road transfers, second-class or chair-car train, standard group departure. Private trips, flights and premium operators cost more. Operator figures are indicative and change season to season.

Practical tips

• Network and cash: mobile signal is patchy from Dewal onward and absent at the high camps. Carry cash from Kathgodam or Almora; UPI and ATMs are unreliable in the hills. Buy your SIM data before you leave the plains.
• Fitness: train for endurance beforehand; you will walk 5-8 hours daily with a daypack. This is a moderate-to-difficult trek, not a beginner’s first walk.
• Nearest hospital: the closest hospitals are down in the valley towns (Karnaprayag/Gwaldam/Almora area); there is no medical facility on the trail, which is exactly why AMS must be managed by descent.
• Solo women: joining a registered mixed group is common and generally comfortable; choose operators with women on the crew or in the group where possible, and share your itinerary with someone at home.
• Packing by season: layered warm clothing year-round, a rain shell in the shoulder months, sturdy waterproof boots, sun protection, a headlamp for the summit start, a reusable bottle and personal first aid. Add microspikes or gaiters for spring snow.
• Leave no trace: carry out every wrapper, and never disturb the skeletal remains at the lake.

Nearby places

If you have travel days to spare, the Kumaon-Garhwal region around the trek rewards a slow return.

For gentler, lower-altitude bases and a broader tour of the region, see our guide to the hill stations of Uttarakhand. If Roopkund’s altitude gives you pause, two nearby treks make excellent first Himalayan walks: the Brahmatal trek guide, which shares the Lohajung base and offers winter-snow trekking at lower altitude, and the Kedarkantha trek guide, a popular beginner summit.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Roopkund trek open right now?

As of September 2026, the trek is being run again after the Supreme Court set aside the 2018 overnight-camping ban on Uttarakhand’s meadows on 20 July 2026. Because the ruling is recent and rules are still settling, confirm the live permit position with the Chamoli Forest Department or a registered operator before you book.

How high is Roopkund lake?

Roopkund sits high enough for altitude illness to matter. The 2019 Nature Communications study places it “at over 5,000 meters,” and references give 5,029 m (16,499 ft). Some trek operators list the lake nearer 4,800 m; treat those figures as indicative and plan for real altitude either way.

Why are there skeletons at Roopkund?

Hundreds of human bones lie near the lake. The 2019 ancient-DNA study found the remains belong to three genetically distinct groups who died about a thousand years apart, around 800 CE and around 1800 CE. This refutes the old single-hailstorm story; how the later group died there is still unexplained.

How difficult is the Roopkund trek?

It is a moderate-to-difficult trek of roughly 53-60 km over 6-8 days, crossing 5,000 metres. Fitness helps but does not prevent acute mountain sickness. Expect long days, cold high camps and a steep, early summit push. Train beforehand and be ready to turn back if you feel unwell.

Do I need a permit or a guide for Roopkund?

Yes. A forest-department permit is mandatory and independent unregistered trekking is generally not allowed. In practice you go with a registered operator or licensed guide who arranges permits, camping and crew. Reconfirm current requirements with the Uttarakhand Forest Department before travelling, as rules are in transition.

What is the best time to trek Roopkund?

Two windows work: late spring (May to mid-June) for firm snow up top, and autumn (mid-September to October) for clear, usually snow-free days. Avoid the monsoon (July-August) and deep winter. Nights at the high camps drop below freezing in both seasons, so pack for cold.

Last updated and sources

Roopkund suits fit, acclimatisation-savvy trekkers who respect altitude and the site’s fragile ecology; go in late spring or autumn with a registered operator. If you are new to the Himalaya, start lower and build up first.

Last updated: 25 September 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: Harney É. et al., “Ancient DNA from the skeletons of Roopkund Lake reveals Mediterranean migrants in India,” Nature Communications (2019), via NCBI/PMC; US CDC Yellow Book, “High Elevation Travel & Altitude Illness”; Garhwal Post, “Why the Supreme Court’s bugyal verdict matters” (2026); train details from public timetables for the New Delhi-Kathgodam Shatabdi Express (12039/12040) and Ranikhet Express (15013/15014) — reconfirm live on IRCTC/NTES; altitude, distance, season and itinerary figures cross-checked against operator itineraries (Indiahikes, Walking the Himalayas and others) and labelled indicative. Accessed September 2026.

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