Karnasubarna, in the Berhampore subdivision of Murshidabad district, West Bengal, is the site of the 7th-century capital of King Shashanka of Gauda and of the excavated Raktamrittika Mahavihara, a Buddhist monastery the Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang described. The visible remains sit at Rajbari Danga, a brick-built monastic mound on the western bank of the Bhagirathi, with a cluster of related mounds nearby. This guide covers what the Karnasubarna site is, what has been excavated there, how to reach it, and how to plan a calm half-day around it.
Karnasubarna (also spelled Karnasuvarna) is an archaeological site about 9.6 km south-west of Berhampore in Murshidabad district, West Bengal. It marks the capital of King Shashanka of Gauda and includes the excavated Raktamrittika Mahavihara Buddhist monastery at Rajbari Danga. Entry is generally free.
Key takeaways
- Karnasubarna is in the Berhampore subdivision of Murshidabad district, West Bengal, about 9.6 km south-west of Berhampore town, on the western side of the Bhagirathi.
- According to the Murshidabad district administration, it was the capital of the Gauda kingdom under Shashanka, “the first important king of ancient Bengal,” in the 7th century.
- The excavated monastery at Rajbari Danga is identified with the Raktamrittika Mahavihara that the pilgrim Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) recorded near Karnasuvarna; the identification rests on inscribed monastic sealings.
- Rajbari Danga (Raja Karna’s Palace) was excavated by the University of Calcutta under S.R. Das, first in 1962; the adjacent Rakshasidanga mound was dug by the ASI’s K.N. Dixit in 1929–30.
- The nearest railhead is Karnasubarna station (formerly Chiruti), about 2.4 km away; Berhampore and the Hazarduari complex make the practical base.
- Best visited from October to February; the mounds are protected and entry is generally free (reconfirm locally).
About Karnasubarna: quick facts
Karnasubarna is an ancient-city archaeological site in Murshidabad district, West Bengal, remembered as the capital of King Shashanka of Gauda in the 7th century. The name is also written Karnasuvarna; do not confuse the place with Karnaprayag in Uttarakhand, and note that the local mound-cluster called Rangamati here is in Murshidabad, not the Rangamati in the Chittagong Hills of Bangladesh.
What a visitor actually sees is a group of excavated and unexcavated mounds spread across the villages of Jadupur and Chowk, on the western side of the Bhagirathi river. The best-preserved of these is Rajbari Danga, a brick Buddhist monastery, with the Rakshasidanga and Nilkuthi mounds close by. According to the Murshidabad district administration, after Shashanka’s death the area briefly served as the jayaskandhavara (camp of victory) of Bhaskaravarman, king of Kamarupa.
The site is tied to legend as well as history. Folklore links “Raja Karna’s Palace” to Karna of the Mahabharata, but this is local tradition rather than documented history, and the mound takes the royal name only by that association.
| Fact | Detail (reconfirm before travel) |
|---|---|
| Location | Near Jadupur/Chowk, Berhampore subdivision, Murshidabad district, West Bengal |
| Historic role | Capital of Gauda under King Shashanka, 7th century |
| Main monument | Raktamrittika Mahavihara (Buddhist monastery) at Rajbari Danga |
| Distance from Berhampore | About 9.6 km south-west |
| Nearest railway station | Karnasubarna (formerly Chiruti), about 2.4 km |
| Protection | ASI-listed mounds (Devil’s Mound & Raja Karna’s Palace; Nil Kuthi Mound) |
| Entry | Generally free; open daylight hours (reconfirm) |
| Time needed | About 1–2 hours for the main mounds |
History and the Raktamrittika Mahavihara
The Raktamrittika Mahavihara was a Buddhist monastery near Karnasuvarna that the 7th-century Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) recorded, and which modern excavation at Rajbari Danga is believed to have recovered. According to Banglapedia, Xuanzang described a sangharama “in the suburb of Kie-lo-na-su-fa-la-na” (Karnasuvarna) where, he wrote, “congregate all the most distinguished, learned and celebrated men of the kingdom.”
The identification rests chiefly on inscribed clay sealings found in excavation. Banglapedia records a sealing from the second cultural period, dated to roughly the 5th to 7th–8th centuries AD, carrying a Dharmachakra-and-deer symbol; the epigraphist Dineshchandra Sircar read its inscription as referring to “the Great Monastery at the illustrious Raktamrttika.” Wikipedia cites a monastic sealing read as “Shri Rakta(m)rttika (Ma)havaiharik arya bhikshu (samgha)sya,” linking the mound directly to the monastery’s name.
Shashanka, generally dated to about AD 600–638, ruled Gauda from Karnasuvarna and is counted the first important king of ancient Bengal. After his reign the city’s fortunes faded: later sources connect it with Bhaskaravarman of Kamarupa and with a ruler named Jayanaga around the mid-7th century. Finds at the site span a long period—Wikipedia notes vestiges from about the 2nd century AD to the 15th–16th century—so the monastery is one chapter in a much longer occupation.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Karnasubarna is October to February, when Murshidabad’s weather is dry and mild and walking the open mounds is comfortable. Summers from April to June are hot, and the monsoon from June to September brings heavy rain to the Bhagirathi plains, so the cooler winter months suit sightseeing best.
The mounds are open and largely unshaded, so start early and carry water and sun cover whatever the month. Winter also lets you pair the site with Murshidabad’s wider heritage circuit without the midday heat.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Winter (best) | November–February | Dry, pleasant, cool mornings; ideal for walking the mounds |
| Spring/summer | March–June | Hot and humid, peaking in May; visit at dawn |
| Monsoon | July–September | Heavy rain; paths muddy, river plains prone to flooding |
| Shoulder | October | Cooler and quieter; a good opening window |
The seasonal ranges above reflect the humid subtropical climate reported for the Berhampore area; check the IMD forecast close to your dates.
How to reach Karnasubarna
Reach Karnasubarna by road from Berhampore, the Murshidabad district headquarters, which has the area’s best transport links and lies about 9.6 km to the north-east. A hired car or auto-rickshaw from Berhampore is the simplest way in, and the site can be combined with the main Murshidabad monuments across the river.
By rail: The nearest station is Karnasubarna (formerly named Chiruti), on the Barharwa–Azimganj–Katwa loop of Eastern Railway, about 2.4 km from Rajbari Danga; only slower passenger and local services stop there. For most travellers the practical railheads are Berhampore Court and Murshidabad stations, which connect to Kolkata (Sealdah and Howrah). If you are continuing north afterwards, trains run on towards New Jalpaiguri, the gateway for the Darjeeling hills.
By road: From Berhampore, hire a car or auto-rickshaw for the round trip; local transport near the site itself is limited, so a pre-arranged vehicle is wise. Clubbing Karnasubarna with the Hazarduari and Lalbagh monuments in one day usually makes the most sense.
By air: The nearest airport is Kolkata (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International), which the district administration places about 195 km from Murshidabad; an overnight train or a long road transfer follows. For planning the wider region, see our West Bengal travel guide.
| From | To Karnasubarna site | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Karnasubarna station (formerly Chiruti) | About 2.4 km | Only slow/local trains stop |
| Berhampore town | About 9.6 km | Car or auto, under 30 minutes |
| Hazarduari, Lalbagh | About 20–25 km | Pair in one day |
| Kolkata airport (NSCBI) | About 195 km (to Murshidabad) | Overnight train is easier |
What to see at the site
At Karnasubarna the main sight is the excavated brick monastery at Rajbari Danga, along with the neighbouring Rakshasidanga and Nilkuthi mounds. Rajbari Danga, also called Raja Karna’s Palace, is where the University of Calcutta’s archaeology department exposed a large Buddhist vihara; according to Banglapedia the structural remains include a platform, stupa basements, a staircase and brick pavement, though no complete building plan was recovered.
Excavation yielded more than walls. Banglapedia lists stucco heads, a copper chakra and numerous clay sealings bearing Buddhist formulas; one sealing (read as “Guhyachakrah”) is described as possibly the earliest epigraphic record from Bengal mentioning a religious rite. The maritime reach of the monastery shows in a 5th-century slate inscription from the Malay peninsula that names a sea-captain, Buddhagupta, “from Raktamrttika.”
The two excavations were carried out separately. The Rakshasidanga mound was dug by K.N. Dixit of the Archaeological Survey of India in 1929–30, while Rajbari Danga was excavated by the University of Calcutta under S.R. Das, beginning in 1962 (an on-site board cites work continuing to 1982). Much of what you see today is low, weathered brickwork rather than standing architecture, so come for the archaeology and the setting rather than for grand ruins.
| Mound / feature | What it is | Who excavated |
|---|---|---|
| Rajbari Danga (Raja Karna’s Palace) | Buddhist monastery identified with Raktamrittika Mahavihara | University of Calcutta (S.R. Das), from 1962 |
| Rakshasidanga | Mound with early remains | ASI (K.N. Dixit), 1929–30 |
| Nilkuthi Mound | Adjacent higher mound; sporadic antiquities | Associated with the same investigations |
| Sealings & small finds | Inscribed clay sealings, stucco heads, copper chakra | Recovered in the above digs |
There is a small site museum tradition around Murshidabad’s finds; confirm locally whether an interpretation centre or custodian is present before you rely on signage at the mounds.
Suggested itinerary
A single day from Berhampore covers Karnasubarna comfortably alongside Murshidabad’s star monuments. Hire a car for the day and start early.
- Morning: Drive from Berhampore to Rajbari Danga (about 9.6 km). Spend roughly an hour walking the monastery mound, Rakshasidanga and Nilkuthi.
- Late morning: Return towards Berhampore and cross to Lalbagh for the Hazarduari Palace complex.
- Afternoon: See the Katra Masjid, Nizamat Imambara and the riverside nawabi monuments of Murshidabad.
- Evening: Back in Berhampore for the night; the town has the area’s hotels and eateries.
If you have only a few hours, do Karnasubarna with a quick stop at one Murshidabad monument—the mounds alone need little more than an hour or two.
Where to stay
Stay in Berhampore (also written Baharampur) or around Lalbagh in Murshidabad; Karnasubarna itself has no tourist lodging. Berhampore has the widest choice, from simple guesthouses to mid-range hotels, while Lalbagh offers heritage-style stays near the monuments.
- Budget: roughly ₹800–1,500 a night for simple guesthouses in Berhampore (indicative planning estimate — reconfirm).
- Mid-range: roughly ₹1,800–3,500 a night for business and tourist hotels in Berhampore or Lalbagh (indicative — reconfirm).
- Government/tourist lodging: West Bengal Tourism operates lodging in the state; check the official WBTDC portal for current Murshidabad-area options and rates.
Book ahead during the winter travel season and around major festivals, when rooms in Berhampore and Lalbagh fill quickly.
Food to try
Murshidabad’s food is classic Bengali, with a few local specialities worth seeking out. Meals around Berhampore and Lalbagh lean on rice, fish and seasonal vegetables.
- Bengali thali (a plate of rice, dal, vegetables and fish or meat) at local eateries in Berhampore.
- Chhanabora (a soft fried cottage-cheese sweet soaked in syrup), a sweet associated with the Murshidabad region.
- Freshwater fish such as rui (rohu) and katla in light mustard or gravy, standard on local menus.
- Bengali sweets (rosogolla, sandesh) from town shops.
Carry your own water and snacks for the mounds, as the site has limited roadside options.
Budget breakdown
A day trip to Karnasubarna is inexpensive, dominated by local transport and your room rather than entry fees. The figures below are an indicative planning estimate as of November 2026 for one person on a one-day outing from Berhampore, and should be reconfirmed locally.
| Item | Indicative cost (per person) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Site entry | Free (reconfirm) | Open ASI-listed mounds |
| Local transport | ₹500–1,500 | Shared auto to a full-day hired car |
| Murshidabad monument tickets | ₹25–50 each | e.g. Hazarduari (ASI); reconfirm |
| Meals | ₹200–500 | Local Bengali eateries |
| Accommodation (if staying) | ₹800–3,500 | Budget to mid-range in Berhampore |
Assumptions: self-guided visit, no overnight unless shown; prices are planning estimates, not quotes.
Permits, photography and rules
No special permit is needed to visit Karnasubarna; the mounds are protected archaeological remains, with no Inner Line Permit or restricted-area requirement in Murshidabad district. Ordinary still photography for personal use is generally allowed at such sites, while tripods, professional shoots and drones typically need prior permission from the Archaeological Survey of India.
As these are protected remains, do not dig, climb on fragile brickwork, or remove any object from the mounds. Follow any instructions posted on site or given by a custodian, and keep to marked paths where they exist.
Practical tips
- Timing: go early; the mounds are open and offer little shade.
- Transport: arrange a car or auto from Berhampore in advance, as there is little transport at the site itself.
- Money: carry cash for autos and small purchases; UPI works in Berhampore but may be patchy at the rural site. ATMs are in Berhampore, not at the mounds.
- Connectivity: mobile coverage is generally available but can be weak around the site.
- Health: the nearest major hospitals are in Berhampore; a local primary health centre serves the Karnasubarna area. Carry water, sunscreen and personal medicines.
- Footwear: wear comfortable shoes for uneven, grassy ground around the mounds.
- Guide: a local guide from Murshidabad helps, as on-site interpretation can be limited.
Nearby places
Karnasubarna pairs naturally with the monuments of Murshidabad, the 18th-century nawabi capital across the Bhagirathi. Most sit within 20–25 km, making a full day of heritage comfortably possible.
| Place | Distance (approx.) | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Hazarduari Palace, Lalbagh | About 20–25 km | Grand 19th-century palace and museum |
| Katra Masjid, Murshidabad | About 20–25 km | Early 18th-century mosque and tomb of Murshid Quli Khan |
| Nizamat Imambara | About 20–25 km | Large riverside imambara beside Hazarduari |
| Berhampore town | About 9.6 km | District base, hotels and transport |
For planning a wider loop through the state, see our West Bengal travel guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is Karnasubarna known for?
Karnasubarna is known as the 7th-century capital of King Shashanka of Gauda, the first important king of ancient Bengal, in Murshidabad district, West Bengal. Its excavated mound at Rajbari Danga is identified with the Raktamrittika Mahavihara, a Buddhist monastery the Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang recorded near the city.
Where exactly is Karnasubarna located?
Karnasubarna is in the Berhampore subdivision of Murshidabad district, West Bengal, about 9.6 km south-west of Berhampore town, on the western side of the Bhagirathi river. The remains lie around the villages of Jadupur and Chowk. It is a different place from Karnaprayag in Uttarakhand.
Who excavated the Raktamrittika Mahavihara?
The monastery mound at Rajbari Danga was excavated by the University of Calcutta’s archaeology department under S.R. Das, beginning in 1962, with an on-site board citing work to 1982. The nearby Rakshasidanga mound was excavated earlier, in 1929–30, by K.N. Dixit of the Archaeological Survey of India.
How do I reach Karnasubarna?
Reach Karnasubarna by road from Berhampore, about 9.6 km away, using a hired car or auto-rickshaw. The nearest station is Karnasubarna (formerly Chiruti), about 2.4 km off, but most travellers use Berhampore Court or Murshidabad stations from Kolkata. The nearest airport is Kolkata, roughly 195 km from Murshidabad.
Is there an entry fee for Karnasubarna?
Entry to the Karnasubarna mounds is generally free, as they are open protected archaeological remains rather than a ticketed monument complex. There is no reported ticket counter at the site. Confirm current access, timings and any local rules with the Archaeological Survey of India or the district administration before your visit.
How much time do I need at Karnasubarna?
Plan about one to two hours at Karnasubarna to walk the Rajbari Danga monastery mound and the neighbouring Rakshasidanga and Nilkuthi mounds. Add a half to full day to pair it with the Murshidabad monuments across the river, such as Hazarduari Palace and the Katra Masjid.
Last updated and sources
Go for the history and the archaeology: anyone drawn to early Bengal, to Shashanka’s Gauda, or to the Buddhist world Xuanzang travelled will find Karnasubarna rewarding. Visit between October and February, early in the day, and pair it with Murshidabad.
Last updated: 2 November 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Murshidabad District Administration, “Karnasubarna, capital of Shashanka” tourist-place page (murshidabad.gov.in); Banglapedia, “Raktamrttika Mahavihara” (en.banglapedia.org); Wikipedia, “Karnasuvarna,” citing the ASI Kolkata Circle list of Monuments of National Importance (en.wikipedia.org); and West Bengal Tourism (wbtourism.gov.in). Accessed November 2026.
