Baranagar Terracotta Temples, Murshidabad: a travel guide

The Baranagar Terracotta Temples, in Baranagar village in Murshidabad district of West Bengal, are a cluster of 18th-century brick temples raised under the patronage of Rani Bhabani of Natore, famous for the Char Bangla group of four Shiva temples and their finely carved terracotta panels. They stand on the bank of the Bhagirathi, across the river from Azimganj, in a quiet corner of the old Nawabi country. This guide covers what the Baranagar Terracotta Temples are, how to reach them, what to see, and how to plan an unhurried day around them.

The Baranagar Terracotta Temples are a group of 18th-century Bengal-style brick temples at Baranagar (also spelled Baronagar), in the Murshidabad–Jiaganj block of Murshidabad district, West Bengal. The best-known are the Char Bangla, four Shiva temples decorated with terracotta reliefs, which the Archaeological Survey of India protects as Monuments of National Importance. Note that this Baranagar is a village near Azimganj, not the industrial suburb of Baranagar (Baranagore) in the Kolkata metropolitan area.

About the Baranagar Terracotta Temples: quick facts

The Baranagar Terracotta Temples are a group of 18th-century brick temples at Baranagar, a rural village in the Murshidabad–Jiaganj community development block, Lalbag subdivision, Murshidabad district, West Bengal. They sit on the western bank of the Bhagirathi (the name the Ganga takes through this part of Bengal), roughly opposite the town of Azimganj. The 2011 Census recorded Baranagar as a small village of about 1,721 people.

The temples are credited to Rani Bhabani of Natore (1716–1795), the widow of Raja Ramakanta, zamindar of Natore (now in Bangladesh), who was widely remembered for her religious endowments and charity. A long-standing local tradition, recorded by researchers of Bengal temple iconography, says she wished to build 108 temples at Baranagar and stopped at 107; the reason is not known, so treat the figure as tradition rather than a verified count. The early account in the 1905 book The Musnud of Murshidabad names the Bhubaneswar (Bhavaniswar) Siva and Rajrajeswari temples as her work, and a Gopal temple as built by her daughter, Tara.

Do not confuse this Baranagar with Baranagar (also spelled Baranagore) in the Kolkata metropolitan area of North 24 Parganas district, which is an industrial and residential suburb on the Hooghly with no connection to these temples. This guide is about the Murshidabad village near Azimganj. The best-known structures here are the Char Bangla (literally “four Banglas”), a group of four Shiva temples, protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Best time to visit

The best time to visit the Baranagar Terracotta Temples is the cooler, drier part of the year, roughly October to March, when Murshidabad’s weather suits both walking the open temple ground and a river crossing by country boat. These months are the main sightseeing season across the district, which also includes the Hazarduari Palace and the other Nawabi-era monuments near Murshidabad town.

Summers from April to June are hot and humid in this part of the Gangetic plain, and the monsoon from June to September brings heavy rain that can swell the Bhagirathi and make the boat crossing and rural approach roads awkward. If you travel in the monsoon, keep plans flexible and confirm that boats are running. The band of months below is the general pattern for the region; check the India Meteorological Department forecast close to your dates.

How to reach Baranagar

Baranagar is reached through the twin towns of Azimganj and Jiaganj, which face each other across the Bhagirathi, with a short boat crossing as the traditional last leg. The village lies on the Azimganj (western) side of the river, a little inland.

By rail: Azimganj Junction and Jiaganj are the practical railheads, served by trains from Kolkata (Howrah and Sealdah) and other parts of West Bengal; Poradanga Halt, on the Barharwa–Azimganj–Katwa loop line, is also close to Baranagar. Travellers from Kolkata often take a morning train towards Azimganj and continue by boat and local transport; confirm current timings before you travel, as services change.

By river and road: From Jiaganj, the usual approach is to go down to the ghat and cross the Bhagirathi by country boat, then take a cycle-van or auto-rickshaw the short distance to the temples at Baranagar; coming via Azimganj, you can hire local transport directly. The Murshidabad district administration also lists road access to the area, with state-run buses reaching the wider Murshidabad region from Kolkata and other Bengal towns. For the broader context of travelling in the state, see our West Bengal travel guide.

By air: There is no nearby airport. The Murshidabad district tourism page gives Kolkata (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport) as the nearest airport, roughly 195–200 km away, from where you continue by train or road. If you are extending a trip towards the hills afterwards, our Darjeeling travel guide covers North Bengal.

Distances above are planning approximations; the river crossing means door-to-door times vary with boat availability.

The Char Bangla cluster

The Char Bangla is the heart of a visit to Baranagar: four Shiva temples standing together, their name meaning simply “four Banglas,” after the chala (hut-roof) form of Bengal temple architecture. According to the survey work of David McCutchion, the scholar who documented Bengal’s brick temples, these are ek-bangla structures with triple entrances, each roughly 31 feet by 15–16.5 feet. He dated the northern temple to about 1760, within Rani Bhabani’s lifetime; the ASI’s listing places the group broadly in the mid-18th century.

The four temples are not identical in their decoration. McCutchion recorded that two of the Char Bangla temples have rich terracotta facades, a third carries incised plaster work, and the fourth is plain. This variety is part of the appeal: within one small courtyard you can compare a fully ornamented brick facade with simpler finishes side by side. All four are dedicated to Shiva.

The ASI (Kolkata Circle) protects the Char Bangla group of four Shiva temples as a Monument of National Importance, so the structures are maintained as heritage monuments rather than busy active shrines. Walk slowly along the decorated frontages to read the terracotta tiles, which is where Baranagar earns its reputation.

Each temple measures about 31 ft by 15–16.5 ft with a triple-arched entrance, in the ek-bangla style. The pairing of “which temple is which” on the ground can be confusing; the point to remember is that two of the four are the showpieces for terracotta.

Other temples at Baranagar

Beyond the Char Bangla, Baranagar holds several more temples from the same 18th-century building campaign, in a range of Bengal temple forms. Only a few survive in good condition, so expect some to be worn or restored. The most notable, as recorded in temple surveys and the older Murshidabad histories, are listed below.

The Bhavaniswar (Bhabanisvar) temple is, with the Char Bangla, protected by the ASI as a Monument of National Importance; it is noted for stucco ornament. The Gangeshwar (Gangesvara) temple is a mid-18th-century jor-bangla (twin-hut form), about 22 ft 6 in by 26 ft 3 in, with a rich terracotta facade, and is protected by the West Bengal Directorate of Archaeology and Museums as a state monument. The Panchanan Shiva temple is an 18th-century ek-bangla with a triple entrance and renovated terracotta. A large char-chala temple on a square base, recorded as the Ramonathesvara (Rameshwar) temple, about 19 ft square with a single entrance and a rich terracotta facade, carries a date of 1741. The 1905 history also names Rajrajeswari and a Gopal temple (the latter attributed to Rani Bhabani’s daughter Tara) among the foundations here.

Measurements and dates above come from published temple surveys (chiefly McCutchion) and older histories; some temples have been renovated, so the fabric you see may be partly later work.

The terracotta panels: what to look for

Baranagar’s fame rests on its terracotta: moulded and carved burnt-clay tiles set into the brick facades, telling stories in rows of small panels. The subjects, as the temple surveys note, mix Hindu mythology with scenes of everyday Bengal life, so you can find episodes from the epics beside boats, musicians, hunters and animals.

The single most celebrated relief at Baranagar is the panel often described as the “Last prayer of Ravana,” regarded as the most famous wall relief at the site. Look, too, for crowded narrative friezes along the facade registers, the decorated arch spandrels over the triple entrances, and the contrast between the two richly tiled Char Bangla temples and their plainer neighbours. Because terracotta weathers, some panels are crisp and others blurred by two and a half centuries of river-valley monsoons, so a slow, close look rewards the patient visitor.

Carry a zoom lens or use your phone’s zoom to study the upper registers, which are hard to read from the ground. Early-morning or late-afternoon light rakes across the relief and brings out the modelling far better than flat midday sun.

Suggested itinerary

Baranagar works well as a half-day excursion paired with the Azimganj–Jiaganj area, or as part of a longer Murshidabad heritage trip. A typical plan from the Azimganj side:

• Morning: Reach Azimganj or Jiaganj by train; cross the Bhagirathi by boat and take a cycle-van or auto to Baranagar.
• Late morning: Spend about 2–3 hours at the temples — start with the Char Bangla cluster and its terracotta, then the Bhavaniswar, Gangeshwar and other temples nearby.
• Afternoon: Return across the river; explore Azimganj’s old Jain temples and riverfront, or continue to Murshidabad town.
• Optional add-on: Give a full day or an overnight to Murshidabad town for the Hazarduari Palace, Katra Masjid, Nizamat Imambara and Khushbagh.

If you have only a few hours, concentrate on the Char Bangla and the two terracotta-rich temples, which capture what makes Baranagar special.

Where to stay

There is no tourist lodging at Baranagar village itself, so base yourself in a nearby town. The practical options are Azimganj/Jiaganj for proximity, or Murshidabad/Berhampore for a wider choice of hotels.

• Azimganj / Jiaganj: a few simple guesthouses and heritage stays; handy for an early start to the temples.
• Murshidabad / Lalbagh: budget to mid-range hotels and guesthouses near the Hazarduari monuments, a short distance away.
• Berhampore (Baharampur): the district’s main town, with the widest range of hotels and transport links, about 1–1.5 hours from the Azimganj area by road.

West Bengal Tourism operates lodging in the state; check the official WBTDC portal for current Murshidabad-area availability and rates, and book ahead during the winter travel season.

Food to try

Food around Baranagar is classic Bengali, with Murshidabad adding a few specialities of its own. Carry water and snacks for the temple visit, as the village itself has limited options; eat in Azimganj, Jiaganj or Murshidabad town.

• Bengali thali — rice, dal, vegetables and fish or meat — at local eateries in the nearby towns.
• Freshwater fish such as rui (rohu) and katla in light mustard or gravy, a Bengal staple.
• Chhanabora, a Murshidabad sweet of fried cottage-cheese balls in syrup, a regional speciality.
• Bengali sweets such as rosogolla and sandesh from town shops.

Budget breakdown

A visit to the Baranagar Terracotta Temples is inexpensive, with costs dominated by transport (including the boat crossing) and any overnight stay. The figures below are an indicative planning estimate for one person on a day visit from the Azimganj/Jiaganj side, and should be reconfirmed locally.

Assumptions: self-guided visit, no overnight unless shown; prices are planning estimates, not quotes.

Permits, photography and rules

No special permit is needed to visit Baranagar; it is an open rural area with no Inner Line Permit or restricted-area requirement in Murshidabad district. The Char Bangla group and the Bhavaniswar temple are centrally protected ASI monuments, and the Gangeshwar temple is a state-protected monument, so treat all of them as heritage structures.

Ordinary still photography for personal use is generally allowed at such sites, while tripods, professional shoots and drones typically need prior permission from the ASI or the state archaeology department. As these are protected monuments, do not climb on, touch or deface the terracotta and brickwork, which is fragile. Dress modestly, follow any posted instructions, and respect any worship still conducted at temples that remain in use.

Practical tips

• Plan the crossing: confirm that country boats are running, especially in the monsoon when the Bhagirathi is high; the river crossing is the variable part of the trip.
• Go early: morning light is best for the terracotta and the day is cooler for walking.
• Money: carry cash for boats, cycle-vans and small purchases; UPI may be patchy in the village. ATMs are in the towns, not at Baranagar.
• Connectivity: mobile coverage is generally available but can be weak around the river and village.
• Health: the nearest hospitals are in Berhampore and the larger towns; carry water, sun cover and any personal medicines.
• Footwear: comfortable shoes for uneven village and temple ground.
• Combine wisely: pair Baranagar with Azimganj’s Jain temples or Murshidabad’s Nawabi monuments to make a fuller day.
• Erosion: the temples sit close to a shifting river; stay on stable ground near the banks and heed any local warnings.

Frequently asked questions

Where are the Baranagar Terracotta Temples located?

They are at Baranagar (also spelled Baronagar), a village in the Murshidabad–Jiaganj block of Murshidabad district, West Bengal, on the western bank of the Bhagirathi opposite Azimganj. This is a different place from Baranagar (Baranagore), the industrial suburb of Kolkata in North 24 Parganas district, which has no connection to these temples.

Who built the Baranagar temples and when?

They were built in the 18th century under the patronage of Rani Bhabani of Natore (1716–1795), a zamindar’s widow known for her religious endowments. A local tradition says she planned 108 temples at Baranagar and completed 107, though the reason she stopped is not recorded, so treat the figure as tradition. David McCutchion dated the northern Char Bangla temple to about 1760.

What is the Char Bangla at Baranagar?

The Char Bangla (“four Banglas”) is a group of four Shiva temples in the ek-bangla (chala) style, each about 31 ft by 15–16.5 ft with a triple entrance. Two of the four carry rich terracotta facades, one has incised plaster and one is plain. The group is the best-known part of the Baranagar temple cluster.

Are the Baranagar temples protected by the ASI?

Yes. The Archaeological Survey of India (Kolkata Circle) protects the Char Bangla group of four Shiva temples and the Bhavaniswar temple as Monuments of National Importance. The nearby Gangeshwar temple is protected separately as a state monument by the West Bengal Directorate of Archaeology and Museums.

How do I reach Baranagar and how much time do I need?

Reach it via Azimganj or Jiaganj by train from Kolkata, then cross the Bhagirathi by country boat and take a cycle-van or auto to the village; the nearest airport is Kolkata, about 195–200 km away. Plan roughly 2–3 hours for the temple cluster, or a half-day including the river crossing and Azimganj. Reconfirm train timings and boat availability before you go.

What makes the terracotta at Baranagar special?

The brick facades are set with carved and moulded terracotta panels showing Hindu mythology alongside scenes of everyday Bengal life. The most celebrated relief is the panel often called the “Last prayer of Ravana,” regarded as the finest wall relief at the site. Because the clay weathers, the best-preserved panels reward a slow, close look, ideally in morning or late-afternoon light.

Last updated and sources

Go for the terracotta and the quiet: anyone drawn to Bengal’s brick-temple tradition, to 18th-century art, or to an offbeat corner of Murshidabad away from the Nawabi crowds will find Baranagar rewarding. Visit between October and March, cross the river early, and read the panels slowly.

Last updated: 2 November 2026. Fees, timings, boat services and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.

Sources: Wikipedia, “Char Bangla Temples,” citing David McCutchion’s survey of Bengal temples (en.wikipedia.org); Wikipedia, “Baranagar, Murshidabad,” citing McCutchion and The Musnud of Murshidabad (1905) (en.wikipedia.org); Archaeological Survey of India, Kolkata Circle, and the National Monuments Authority list of Monuments of National Importance in West Bengal (asikolkata.in); and Murshidabad District Administration, official tourist-place page for Char Bangla / Bhawaniswar Mandir, Azimganj (murshidabad.gov.in). Accessed November 2026.