Tholung Monastery, in the Dzongu reserve of Mangan district (formerly North Sikkim), is one of the most sacred and least-visited Nyingma monasteries in Sikkim. Its formal name is Ngagyur Tholung Rigzin Choedrup Ling, and it is best known for safeguarding relics linked to the saint who helped consecrate Sikkim as a Buddhist land. Those treasures stay sealed for years at a time and are shown to the public only during the periodic Khamsel fair.
Tholung Monastery is a remote 18th-century Nyingma gompa in Upper Dzongu, Mangan district, Sikkim, about 2,400 m (8,000 ft) up in the Khangchendzonga National Park buffer. It is reached on foot and holds relics displayed only at the triennial Khamsel ceremony.
Key takeaways
- Tholung Monastery sits in Upper Dzongu, the protected Lepcha reserve that forms one subdivision of Mangan district (renamed from North Sikkim in December 2021), at roughly 2,400 m (8,000 ft).
- Its relics are displayed publicly only at the Khamsel ceremony, held once every three years. It was revived in November 2021 after a nine-year gap and held again from 20–22 November 2024, according to Sikkim Express.
- The relics, including the holy attire of Gyalwa Lhatsun Namkha Jigme, have been kept under the Ecclesiastical Affairs Department, Government of Sikkim, since the 1940s.
- Reaching the monastery means a road drive into Upper Dzongu to a roadhead such as Bey, then a long uphill forest trek of roughly 12–14 km to the gompa.
- Dzongu is a restricted reserve: a special permit from the Sikkim authorities at Mangan is required, and entry rules for foreign nationals are tighter, so confirm the current process before you travel.
About Tholung Monastery
Tholung Monastery is a Nyingmapa (Nyingma school) Buddhist gompa in Upper Dzongu, in Mangan district of Sikkim, set in the buffer zone of Khangchendzonga National Park at about 2,400 m (8,000 ft). Do not confuse it with the better-known roadside monasteries of Sikkim such as Rumtek or Pemayangtse; Tholung is deep in a protected valley with no road to its door.
The monastery’s full name is Ngagyur Tholung Rigzin Choedrup Ling, popularly shortened to Tholung Gonpa. Dzongu itself is a reserve set aside for the Lepcha community, Sikkim’s indigenous people, and today forms one of the four subdivisions of Mangan district, alongside Mangan, Kabi and Chungthang. North Sikkim district was renamed Mangan under the Sikkim reorganisation of districts in December 2021.
Sources differ on exactly when Tholung was founded. Press reports and the Ecclesiastical Affairs Department trace the tradition to the 18th century, with the building commonly dated to around 1788–1789 under the Lhatsun lineage; some accounts say the site was identified as sacred earlier, around 1760. Treat the precise year as unsettled and the 18th-century origin as the firm fact.
| Location | Upper Dzongu, Mangan district (formerly North Sikkim), Sikkim |
|---|---|
| Full name | Ngagyur Tholung Rigzin Choedrup Ling (Tholung Gonpa) |
| Tradition | Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism |
| Approx. altitude | About 2,400 m (8,000 ft) |
| Setting | Khangchendzonga National Park buffer zone |
| Known for | Rare Buddhist relics displayed only at the triennial Khamsel fair |
| Custody of relics | Ecclesiastical Affairs Department, Government of Sikkim |
| Access | Road into Upper Dzongu, then a long uphill trek |
The relics and the Khamsel fair
The relics are shown to the public only during Khamsel, a ceremony held once every three years at Tholung Monastery. For the rest of the time the treasures stay sealed in a strong room. The word Khamsel (also spelt Kamsil in older accounts) is linked to the Tibetan terms for drying (“Kham”) and airing (“Sel”), reflecting the original purpose of taking the items out to protect them from damp.
According to Sikkim Express, the collection includes the holy attire (robes and belongings) of Gyalwa Lhatsun Namkha Jigme, the saint credited with helping establish Buddhism in Sikkim, along with sacred texts. Items are stored in a set of boxes; press reports describe 16 boxes today, said to have been more in the past. Reports also associate some relics with Guru Padmasambhava, the 8th-century teacher revered across the Himalaya.
Custody of the treasures passed from the descendants of the monks who once guarded them to the Ecclesiastical Affairs Department of the Government of Sikkim around the 1940s, which now oversees the collection and the ceremony. The most recent displays were overseen by senior rinpoches: the 2024 Khamsel was led by Tingkye Gonjang Rinpoche of Gonjang Monastery and Tulku Pema Kundal of Enchey Monastery, per Sikkim Express.
The fair was revived in November 2021 after a gap of more than nine years, following damage from the 2011 Sikkim earthquake and later landslides that cut the roads. EastMojo reported that the 2021 revival drew more than 6,000 devotees and visitors, far above the few hundred at earlier editions. The next Khamsel was held from 20–22 November 2024. Because the schedule has shifted over the years (older accounts mention April, recent ones November), confirm the dates of any future fair with the Ecclesiastical department before planning a trip around it.
Best time to visit
The most comfortable months to visit Tholung and Dzongu are the drier, clearer windows of spring and autumn, roughly March to May and October to November, when trails are firmer and views are open. The monsoon brings heavy rain and landslides to this part of Sikkim, and winter is cold at altitude. If you want to witness Khamsel, you must align with its triennial schedule, which in recent years has fallen in November.
| Season | Months | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | March–May | Pleasant days, flowering valleys, generally good for trekking |
| Monsoon | June–September | Heavy rain, leeches, frequent landslides and road cut-offs; avoid |
| Autumn | October–November | Clear skies, stable trails; recent Khamsel fairs fell in November |
| Winter | December–February | Cold, especially higher up; fewer visitors, some services reduced |
How to reach Tholung Monastery
Reaching Tholung is a two-stage journey: drive deep into Upper Dzongu to a roadhead, then trek several hours uphill to the gompa itself. There is no direct road to the monastery. The usual gateway is Mangan, the district headquarters, which most visitors reach from Gangtok.
- By air: The nearest airport is Bagdogra (near Siliguri, West Bengal); Pakyong near Gangtok also handles limited flights. From Bagdogra it is a long road day to Gangtok (around four hours) and on to North Sikkim.
- By rail: The nearest major railhead is New Jalpaiguri (NJP) near Siliguri. From there, take a shared or private taxi to Gangtok, then onward to Mangan and Dzongu.
- By road: From Gangtok it is roughly 65 km to Mangan (about 2.5–3 hours). From Mangan, Lower Dzongu begins within about 10 km, while Upper Dzongu villages such as Passingdang are a little further. Beyond the last roadhead, the trek to Tholung begins.
Our broader Sikkim travel guide covers how the Gangtok hub connects to the rest of the state, which helps when stitching Dzongu into a longer trip. Road conditions in Upper Dzongu change with weather and landslide damage, so check locally before committing to dates.
| Leg | Distance | Rough time |
|---|---|---|
| Bagdogra airport to Gangtok | ~120 km | ~4 hours |
| Gangtok to Mangan | ~65 km | ~2.5–3 hours |
| Mangan to Lower Dzongu | ~10 km | ~30–45 minutes |
| Upper Dzongu roadhead to Tholung (on foot) | ~12–14 km | Several hours uphill |
Permits and rules for Dzongu
Dzongu is a restricted reserve, so you need a special permit from the Sikkim authorities to enter, in addition to any permits required for Sikkim as a whole. Dzongu is set aside for the Lepcha community, and outsiders, including Indians from elsewhere, are expected to carry an entry permit that is checked at police posts on the way in.
Indian nationals generally obtain the Dzongu permit at Mangan (the district office) or arrange it through their homestay host; some accounts say it can also be organised in Gangtok. Carry photo ID and passport-size photographs. Entry for foreign nationals is more tightly controlled across North Sikkim and the border zones, and the rules for foreigners have changed in recent years, so foreign visitors should confirm the current protected/restricted-area procedure directly with the Sikkim Tourism Department or a registered operator.
At the monastery, treat it as a living place of worship: dress modestly, remove shoes where asked, and do not touch or climb on sacred objects. Photography of the relics is strictly restricted during Khamsel, and photography is prohibited inside the associated cave; always ask before photographing interiors. Dzongu follows Sikkim’s strong eco-tourism ethic, so avoid plastic litter and respect local guidance. Because fees and procedures shift, reconfirm the exact permit cost and paperwork with the Mangan district office before you set out.
The trek and what to see
The highlight of a Tholung visit is the forest trek itself, a steady uphill walk of several hours from the last roadhead in Upper Dzongu through dense cover, streams and cane bridges. Figures vary by source and by exactly where the motorable road ends in a given year, but expect in the region of 12–14 km one way and a hard day’s effort, so most visitors stay overnight near the monastery rather than return the same day.
- The monastery and its setting: the gompa sits in a quiet high valley within the Khangchendzonga National Park buffer, rebuilt after earthquake damage with support from the state Tourism Department.
- Khamsel, if your dates align: the once-in-three-years display of relics is the single reason many pilgrims make the climb; otherwise the strong room stays sealed.
- The walk in: the Dzongu forest, waterfalls and the Lepcha cultural landscape are the experience as much as the destination.
Go with a local guide or homestay host. This is remote terrain with limited mobile coverage, no shops en route, and weather that turns quickly.
Where to stay
There are no hotels in Dzongu; accommodation is almost entirely community-run homestays, mostly in Lower and Upper Dzongu villages. These Lepcha-run homes are the practical base for a Tholung trek, and hosts typically arrange meals, guides and permits. Near the monastery itself, facilities are basic: pilgrims traditionally bring tents, and during Khamsel the monastery welfare committee and state departments make temporary arrangements.
- Budget homestays: simple village homestays in Dzongu commonly sit in the ₹1,000–₹2,000 per person range including meals (indicative planning estimate as of November 2026 — reconfirm).
- Mid-range: a few better-appointed homestays and eco-resorts in Dzongu charge more; expect roughly ₹2,500–₹4,000 (indicative — reconfirm).
- Luxury: true luxury hotels do not exist in Dzongu; for that, base in Gangtok before or after.
Book well ahead, especially around a Khamsel year, because beds in Dzongu are few and demand spikes during the fair.
Food to try
Expect simple, warming Sikkimese and Lepcha home cooking at Dzongu homestays rather than restaurant menus. Meals are usually built around rice with local vegetables and lentils, with some dishes shared across Sikkim’s communities.
- Dal-bhat (rice with lentils and vegetables) — the everyday staple of most homestay meals.
- Gundruk (fermented leafy greens, often in soup) — a tangy Himalayan preserve.
- Sinki (fermented radish) — another traditional ferment served as a side or soup.
- Momos (steamed dumplings) and thukpa (noodle soup) — common across Sikkim.
- Churpi (hardened cheese from cow or yak milk) — eaten as a snack or added to dishes.
Local Lepcha households may also serve fermented millet-based drinks; ask your host about what is appropriate, and respect that Tholung is a sacred area.
Suggested itinerary
A realistic Tholung trek needs several days because of the drive, the permit stop and the overnight on the trail. A simple plan:
- Day 1: Gangtok to Mangan by road (~2.5–3 hours); complete the Dzongu permit formalities; continue into Dzongu and settle into a homestay.
- Day 2: Drive to the Upper Dzongu roadhead and trek several hours uphill to Tholung; overnight near the monastery (tent or basic shelter).
- Day 3: Visit the monastery, trek back down to the roadhead and return to your Dzongu homestay.
- Day 4: Explore Lower Dzongu’s villages and waterfalls, then drive back to Mangan or Gangtok.
Add buffer days in the monsoon-prone months, and if you are timing a visit for Khamsel, build in extra time because crowds and weather can slow everything down.
Budget breakdown
A Tholung trip is inexpensive on the ground but costs time and transport. The figures below are indicative planning estimates as of November 2026 for one person on an approximately four-day trip from Gangtok, assuming shared transport and homestay meals; reconfirm all rates before travel.
| Item | Rough cost (₹) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Gangtok–Mangan–Dzongu transport | ₹1,500–₹3,000 | Shared vs private taxi; varies with group size |
| Dzongu permit | Nominal | Small official fee; reconfirm amount at Mangan |
| Homestay + meals (3 nights) | ₹3,000–₹6,000 | Village homestays, meals usually included |
| Local guide / porter for trek | ₹1,500–₹3,000 | Rates vary; arrange via homestay |
| Miscellaneous | ₹1,000 | Snacks, offerings, buffer |
| Approx. total | ₹7,000–₹13,000 | Excludes travel to Gangtok |
Practical tips
Plan for remoteness: Upper Dzongu has limited mobile network, no ATMs on the trail and few shops, so carry enough cash and do not rely on UPI near the monastery. A few more pointers:
- Altitude and fitness: at around 2,400 m the trek is strenuous rather than high-altitude dangerous, but it is a long uphill day; be reasonably fit and pace yourself.
- Health and safety: the nearest hospital-level care is at Mangan or Gangtok, so carry a basic first-aid kit and any personal medicines.
- Guides: always trek with a local guide or through your homestay; trails and bridges can be affected by weather.
- Solo women travellers: Sikkim is generally considered one of India’s safer states, but Dzongu is remote, so travel through a homestay network and avoid trekking alone.
- Packing by season: layers and a warm jacket year-round at night, rain protection and leech socks in the monsoon, good trekking shoes always.
- Respect the reserve: carry out all waste, avoid single-use plastic, and follow local Lepcha customs and any monastery instructions.
Nearby places
Dzongu pairs naturally with the rest of North Sikkim’s attractions, several of which are covered in our Sikkim travel guide. Distances below are approximate and depend on road conditions.
| Place | Approx. distance | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Mangan | Gateway town (~10 km to Lower Dzongu) | District headquarters, permits, supplies and the entry point to Dzongu |
| Lower Dzongu villages | Within Dzongu | Lepcha homestays, waterfalls and hot springs in a gentler setting |
| Chungthang | North of Mangan | Junction town on the way to Lachen and Lachung valleys |
| Gangtok | ~65 km from Mangan | State capital, transport hub and base for North Sikkim trips |
Frequently asked questions
Where is Tholung Monastery?
Tholung Monastery is in Upper Dzongu, within Mangan district (formerly North Sikkim), in the Indian state of Sikkim. It sits at about 2,400 m (8,000 ft) in the buffer zone of Khangchendzonga National Park. There is no road to the monastery itself; you drive into Upper Dzongu and then trek several hours uphill to reach it.
What is the Khamsel ceremony at Tholung Monastery?
Khamsel is a ceremony held once every three years at Tholung, when relics that are normally sealed in a strong room are displayed for public veneration. According to Sikkim Express, items shown include the holy attire of the saint Gyalwa Lhatsun Namkha Jigme. It was revived in November 2021 and held again from 20–22 November 2024.
Do I need a permit to visit Tholung Monastery and Dzongu?
Yes. Dzongu is a restricted Lepcha reserve, so visitors need a special entry permit from the Sikkim authorities, usually arranged at Mangan or through a homestay, with photo ID and photographs. Foreign nationals face tighter rules across North Sikkim. Because procedures and fees change, confirm the current process with the Sikkim Tourism Department before travel.
How do you reach Tholung Monastery?
Reach Tholung in two stages: drive from Gangtok to Mangan (about 65 km, 2.5–3 hours) and on into Upper Dzongu to the roadhead, then trek roughly 12–14 km uphill through forest to the monastery. The nearest airport is Bagdogra and the nearest railhead New Jalpaiguri, both near Siliguri, several hours’ drive from Gangtok.
When is the best time to visit Tholung Monastery?
The best time to visit is spring (March–May) or autumn (October–November), when the weather is drier and the trails are firmer. Avoid the monsoon (June–September), when heavy rain and landslides frequently cut roads in Dzongu. If you want to see the Khamsel relic display, you must match the triennial schedule, which recently has fallen in November.
How old is Tholung Monastery and who founded it?
Tholung Monastery dates to the 18th century and is linked to Sikkim’s Nyingma Lhatsun lineage, with the building commonly dated to around 1788–1789; some accounts say the site was identified as sacred around 1760. Sources disagree on the exact year, so the 18th-century origin is the reliable fact rather than any single date.
Last updated and sources
Tholung suits pilgrims and experienced trekkers willing to earn a remote, sacred place on foot, ideally in spring or autumn, and especially in a Khamsel year. Go slow, go with local hosts, and treat the reserve and its relics with care.
Last updated: 2 November 2026. Fees, timings and permits change — reconfirm with official sources before you travel.
Sources: Sikkim Express, “Khamsel ceremony observed at Tholung Monastery” (2024); EastMojo, “Sikkim’s Tholung monastery revives Khamsel tradition” (2021); Wikipedia, “Tholung Monastery” (citing the Ecclesiastical Affairs Department, Government of Sikkim); Wikivoyage, “Dzongu”; EastMojo, “Sikkim gets two new districts” (2021); Peaceful Societies, University of North Carolina Greensboro, on the 2011 earthquake and Dzongu. Accessed September 2026.
